GIFT  OF 
COTST 


PRACTICAL 


ADAPTED   TO 


PERSONS  OF  MODERATE  AND  SMALL  MEANS 


BY 


MKS.  MARY  HINMAN  ABEL. 


THE  LOME  PRIZE  ESSAY. 


Inscription:  "The  Five  Food  Principles,  Illustrated 
by  Practical  Recipes,"    ^ 


PUBLISHED   BY   THE 

AMERICAN  PUBLIC  HEALTH  ASSOCIATION, 

1890, 


COPYRIGHT,  1889, 

BY  IRVING  A.  WATSON, 

SECRETARY  AMERICAN  PUBLIC  HEALTH  ASSOCIATION. 


PRINTED  BY  E.  R.  ANDREWS 
ROCHESTER,  N.  Y. 


PBEFACE. 


Perhaps  there  is  no  better  way  of  presenting  to  the 
public  the  facts  which  led  to  the  creation  of  this 
valuable  work,  than  by  inserting  the  announcement 
which  resulted  in  the  exceedingly  lively  and  able 
competition  for  the  prize,  as  well  as  the  merited  honor 
which  was  certain  to  fall  upon  the  successful  com- 
petitor. It  read  as  follows  : 

AMERICAN  PUBLIC  HEALTH  ASSOCIATION. 


THE  LOME  PEIZE  ESSAYS. 
Two  Prizes  for  1888. 

Mr.  Henry  Lomb,  of  Rochester,  N.Y.,  now  well  known 
to  the  American  public  as  the  originator  of  the  "Lomb 
Prize  Essays,"  offers,  through  the  American  Public 
Health  Association,  two  prizes  for  the  current  year,  on 
the  following  subject: 

PRACTICAL  SANITARY  AND  ECONOMIC  COOKING 

ADAPTED  TO  PERSONS  OF  MODERATE 

AND  SMALL  MEANS. 

First  Prize,  $500,       -      -      -       Second  Prize,  $200. 

JUDGES:  Prof.  Charles  A.  Lindsley,  New  Haven, 
Conn.;  Prof.  George  H.  Rohe,  Baltimore,  Md.;  Prof. 
Victor  C.  Vaughan,  Ann  Arbor,  Mich.;  Mrs.  Ellen  H. 
Richards,  Boston,  Mass.;  Miss  Emma  C.  G.  Poison, 
New  Haven,  Conn. 

CONDITIONS  :  The  arrangement  of  the  essay  will  be  left 
to  the  discretion  of  the  author.  They  are,  however, 

(3) 


418010 


iv  Preface. 

expected  to  cover,  in  the  broadest  and  most  specific 
manner,  methods  of  cooking  as  "well  as  carefully  pre- 
pared receipts,  for  three  classes, — ( 1 )  those  of  moderate 
means;  (2)  those  of  small  means;  (3)  those  who  may  be 
called  poor.  For  each  of  these  classes,  receipts  for  three 
meals  a  day  for  several  days  in  succession  should  be 
given,  each  meal  to  meet  the  requirements  of  the  body, 
and  to  vary  as  much  as  possible  from  day  to  day.  For- 
mulas for  at  least  twelve  dinners,  to  be  carried  to  the 
place  of  work,  and  mostly  eaten  cold,  to  be  given. 
Healthfulness,  practical  arrangement,  low  cost,  and 
palatableness  should  be  combined  considerations.  The 
object  of  this  work  is  for  the  information  of  the  house- 
wife, to  whose  requirements  the  average  cook-book  is  ill 
adapted,  as  well  as  to  bring  to  her  attention  healthful 
and  ecconomic  methods  and  receipts. 

All  essays  written  for  the  above  prizes  must  be  in  the 
hands  of  the  Secretary,  Dr.  Irving  A.  Watson,  Concord, 
N.  H.,  on  or  before  September  15,  1888.  Each  essay 
mast  bear  a  motto,  and  have  accompany  ing  it  a  securely 
sealed  envelope  containing  the  author's  name  and  ad- 
dress, with  the  same  motto  upon  the  outside  of  the 
envelope. 

After  the  prize  essays  have  been  determined  upon,  the 
envelopes  bearing  the  mottoes  corresponding  to  the 
prize  essays  will  be  opened,  and  the  awards  made  to  the 
persons  whose  names  are  found  within  them.  The  re- 
maining envelopes,  unless  the  corresponding  essays  are 
reclaimed  by  authors  or  their  representatives  within 
thirty  days  after  publication  of  the  awards,  will  be 
destroyed,  unopened,  by  the  Secretary. 

None  of  the  judges  will  be  allowed  to  compete  for  a 
prize. 

The  judges  will  announce  the  awards  at  the  Annual 
Meeting  of  the  American  Public  Health  Association, 
1888. 

It  is  intended  that  the  above  essays  shall  be  essen- 
tially American  in  their  character  and  application,  and 


Preface.  Y 

this  will  be  considered  by  the  judges   as  an  especial 
merit. 

Competition  is  open  to  authors  of  any  nationality, 
but  all  the  papers  must  be  in  the  English  language. 

IRVING  A.  WATSON, 

Secretary. 
CONCORD,  N.  H.,  February,  1888. 

The  above  circular  was  extensively  circulated  and 
published  throughout  the  United  States  and  the 
Dominion  of  Canada,  with  the  result  of  bringing  to 
the  Secretary,  within  the  specified  time,  seventy  essays 
upon  the  subject  announced.  The  arrival  of  these 
essays  covered  a  period  of  nearly  five  months,  and 
they  were  forwarded  to  the  Chairman  of  the  Commit- 
tee of  Award  nearly  as  fast  as  received,  thus  giving 
the  committee  ample  time  for  their  exceedingly 
laborious  work  of  examination.  The  decision  of  the 
judges  was  announced  at  the  Sixteenth  Annual  Meet- 
ing of  the  American  Public  Health  Association,  and 
was  as  follows: 

REPORT  OF  COMMITTEE  ON  THE  LOME  PRIZES. 

Your  committee,  to  whom  were  referred  the  essays 
upon  "  Practical  Sanitary  and  Economic  Cooking 
Adapted  for  Persons  of  Moderate  and  Small  Means," 
respectfully  report  that  they  have  perused  with  thought- 
ful and  considerate  attention  the  three  score  and  ten 
essays  which  were  submitted  to  them. 

A  few  of  them  were  presented  in  beautiful  specimens 
of  type-writing,  but  the  great  majority  of  them  were  in 
manuscript,  and  some  of  them  not  in  the  most  legible 
characters,  a  circumstance  which,  it  will  be  appreciated, 
became  an  important  matter,  when  considered  in  con- 
nection with  the  large  number  of  competitors,  and  the 
fact  that  many  of  their  papers  were  each  of  several 
hundred  pages  in  length. 


vi  Preface. 

The  result  of  the  labors  of  the  committee  is,  that  by 
unanimous  approval,  the  first  prize  of  $500  is  awarded  to 
the  author  of  the  essay  bearing  this  inscription,  — "  The 
Five  Food  Principles,  illustrated  by  Practical  Recipes  " 

Your  committee  would  further  report  that  although 
there  were  among  the  remaining  sixty-nine  a  number  of 
essays  of  considerable  merit,  there  was  no  single  one  so 
prominently  superior  to  others  as  to  commend  the  ap- 
proval of  the  majority  of  your  committee,  nor  was  there 
any  which  did  not  con  tain  some  errors  of  statement,  which 
your  committee  did  not  feel  justified  in  endorsing  with 
the  approval  of  this  Association  by  the  bestowal  of  a 
prize,  or  else  which  did  not  fail  to  meet  some  of  the  con- 
ditions upon  which  the  prize  was  offered,  or  which  was 
not  otherwise  objectionable  because  of  literary  defects. 

Your  committee  would  therefore  respectfully  report 
that  no  essay  was  found  among  those  submitted  to  them 
which  they  judged  deserving  of  the  second  prize  of  $200. 

The  committee  consider  it  a  duty,  in  awarding  the 
prize,  to  emphasize  the  fact  that  of  all  the  essays  sub- 
mitted the  one  selected  is  not  only  preeminently  the 
best,  but  that  it  is  also  intrinsically  an  admirable  treatise 
on  the  subject. 

It  is  simple  and  lucid  in  statement,  methodical  in  ar- 
rangement, and  well  adapted  to  the  practical  wants  of 
the  classes  to  which  it  is  addressed.  Whoever  may  read 
it  can  have  confidence  in  the  soundness  of  its  teachings, 
and  cannot  fail  to  be  instructed  in  the  art  of  cooking  by 
its  plain  precepts,  founded  as  they  are  upon  the  correct 
application  of  the  scientific  principles  of  chemistry  and 
physiology  to  the  proper  preparation  of  food  for  man. 
All  of  which  is  respectfully  submitted. 

C.  A.  LIITOSLEY. 
GEORGE  H.  ROHE. 
V.  C.  VAUGHAN. 
ELLE^  H.  RICHARDS. 
EMMA  C.  G.  POLSON. 


Preface.  vii 

The  American  public  is  to  be  congratulated  upon 
this  useful  and  valuable  contribution  to  the  needs  of 
its  great  army  of  working  people,  made  possible 
through  the  humanitarian  benevolence  of  a  private 
citizen.  This  was  the  fifth  prize  offered  by  the  same 
citizen,  through  the  same  channel,  for  the  noble  pur- 
pose of  ameliorating,  in  some  degree,  the  hardships 
which  befall  mankind  in  the  tireless  struggle  for 
existence. 

That  this  essay  may  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  every 
family  in  the  country,  is  his  earnest  desire  as  well  as 
that  of  the  Association;  therefore  a  price  barely  cover- 
ing the  cost  has  been  placed  upon  this  volume.  It  is 
to  be  hoped,  that  Government  departments,  state  and 
local  boards  of  health,  sanitary  and  benevolent  asso- 
ciations, manufacturers,  employers,  etc.,  will  purchase 
editions  at  cost,  or  otherwise  aid  in  distributing  this 
work  among  the  people. 

Although  a  copyright  has  been  placed  upon  these 
essays  for  legitimate  protection,  permission  to  publish 
under  certain  conditions,  can  be  obtained  by  address- 
ing the  secretary. 

We  commend  this  volume  to  the  public,  believing 
it  to  be  an  unequaled  work  upon  "  Practical  Sanitary 
and  Economic  Cooking,  adapted  to  persons  of  mode- 
rate and  small  means." 


Secretary  American  Public  Health  Association. 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 


PAGE. 

GENERAL  INTRODUCTION, 1 

THE  KITCHEN, 18 

I.   PROTEID  -  CONTAINING    FOODS   (Animal    Sort),   AND 

THEIR  PREPARATION, 22 

Methods  of  Cooking  Meat, .__ 32 

Soup  Making, _ 33,  39 

Boiling  Meat, ...34,  40 

Frying  in  Fat, 35,  40 

Baking  Meat, 35,  41 

Broiling  Meat, 36,  42 

Use  of  Thermometer, 43 

Heat  Saver, 44 

To  Make  Meat  Tender, 45 

Recipes  for  Cooking  Meat, _ 46 

Beef,_. 46 

Veal,. 50 

Mutton  and  Lamb, 51 

Pork, 52 

Fish  and  Fish  Soups, _ _ __     55 

Fowl  and  Fowl  Soups, 57 

Eggs  and  Egg  Dishes, 58 

Cheese  and  Cheese  Dishes, . 61 

Care  and  Use  of  Milk, 63 

Sour  Milk, 64 

II.   FATS  AND  OILS, 66 

Usesof  Fats, 71 

Meat  and  Vegetable  Sauces, 72 

III.  THE  CARBOHYDRATE-CONTAINING  FOODS  AND  THEIR 

PREPARATION, _ 75 

Grains, 79 

Sugars, 80 

ix 


Table  of  Contents. 

Legumes, 81 

Potatoes  and  other  Vegetables,  _ 82 

Fruits, 83 

The  Cooking  of  Grains,  _  _  85 

Grains  Cooked  Whole, 85 

Cooking  of  Grits, 86 

Corn  Flour, 87 

Graham  Flour, 88 

Fine  Wheat  Flour, 89 

Macaroni  and  Noodles, 89 

Flour  Raised  with  Fat, 91 

Flour  Raised  with  Egg, 92 

Egg  Pancakes,  &c 92 

Flour  Raised  with  Carbonic  Acid  Gas, 93 

(a)  Yeast  Raised, 

White  Bread, ....  94 

Rye  and  Corn  Bread,.. 97 

Biscuits,  Rolls,  &c 97 

Yeast  Pancakes, 99 

Buckwheat  Flour, _ 100 

(5)  Raised  with  Soda, 

Methods, _ 101 

Soda  Biscuits, 102 

Uses  of  Biscuit  Dough,  &c 102 

Soda  Corn  Breads, _ 103 

Soda  Pancakes,  without  Eggs, . 103 

Soda  Pancakes,  with  Eggs, 104 

Uses  for  Bread, ._. 105 

Simple  Sweet  Dishes, 107 

Milk  Puddings,.. 107 

Fruit  Puddings,  with  Biscuit  Dough, 108 

Fruit  Puddings  with  Bread, 109 

Custard  Puddings, _ 110 

Bread  and  Custard  Puddings, 110 

Suet  Puddings, 112 

Pudding  Sauce, 112 

Fritters, 113 

Cooking  of  Vegetables, 115 


Table  of  Contents. 

Soups  without  Meat, 117 

Vegetable  Soups, _  - .  117 

Flour  and  Bread  Soups,  _  _ 121 

Milk  Soups  or  Porridges, 122 

Fruit  Soups, 124 

Additions  to  Soups, 126 

Dumplings  for  Soups  and  Stews, 127 

Flavors  and  Seasonings, 130 

Drinks, 133 

COOKERY  FOR  THE  SICK, 137 

TWELVE  BILLS  OF  FARE — Explanation, 142 

Class  I.  (with  letter  of  advice  to  mother  of  the  family),  143 

Class  II --  163 

Class  III .-  164 

TWELVE  COLD  DINNERS, 176 


INTRODUCTION. 


Few  things  are  of  more  importance  than  that  we 
should  find  ourselves  physically  and  mentally  equal  to 
our  day's  work,  but  not  many  of  us  realize  how  largely 
this  depends  upon  the  food  we  eat. 

Supposing  there  to  be  just  money  enough  in  a  given 
family  to  buy  the  right  kind  and  quantity  of  food. 
Now  if  this  money  is  not  wisely  expended,  or  if  after 
the  food  has  been  bought  it  is  spoiled  in  the  cooking, 
the  results  will  be  very  serious  for  the  members  of 
that  family;  they  will  be.  under-nourished  and  they 
will  suffer  in  clear-headedness,  bodily  strength,  and 
in  the  case  of  children,  in  bodily  development. 

Surely  the  right  condition  of  the  body  is  too  im- 
portant to  be  left  to  chance  ;  the  best  scientific  knowl- 
edge, the  best  practical  heads  should  be  at  its  service, 
and  this  is  the  case,  indeed,  to  a  large  extent  in  Eu- 
rope, where  the  food  of  the  soldiers  and  of  the  inmates 
of  public  institutions  is  furnished  more  or  less  ac- 
cording to  certain  rules  that  have  been  deduced 
partly  from  observation,  and  partly  from  scientific 
experiment. 

The  application  of  scientific  principles  on  these  lines 
is  not  of  long  standing,  for  the  investigations  that  have 
cl  inched  them  are  all  of  comparatively  recent  date.  At 


2  History  of  F'ood  Stuay. 

the  end  of  the  last  century  a  beginning  was  made  in 
France  and  in  Germany  in  connection  with  philan- 
thropic efforts  to  improve  the  food  of  the  poor,  and  it 
was  at  this  time  that  Count  Eumford  introduced  into 
the  soup  kitchens  of  Munich,  the  soup  that  has  been 
named  after  him.  From  this  time  on  interest  in  the 
subject  of  foods,  both  for  men  and  domestic  animals, 
steadily  increased,  although  experimenters  were  con- 
stantly coming  to  wrong  conclusions  because  the 
sciences  of  Organic  Chemistry  and  Physiology,  as  far 
as  they  concerned  the  subject,  were  not  far  enough 
advanced. 

It  was  only  in  the  early  forties  that  the  first  ex- 
perimental agricultural  stations  were  established,  but 
so  rapidly  have  they  multiplied  that  they  now  number 
more  than  a  hundred  in  Europe  alone;  and  in  these 
and  in  the  laboratories  of  the  great  universities, 
analyses  have  been  made  of  most  of  the  foods  used  by 
men  and  animals,  and  also  tests  of  the  relative  flesh 
and  fat  producing  power  of  different  foods  and  com- 
binations of  foods. 

For  years  the  results  of  these  investigations  have 
been  applied  with  profit  to  the  feeding  of  cattle, 
but  it  was  a  case  of  threatened  wholesale  starvation 
in  England  that  first  turned  the  attention  of  properly 
trained  persons  to  a  like  study  of  the  nourishment  of 
human  beings.  During  our  civil  war  the  condition  of 
the  cotton  spinners  in  Lancashire  and  Cheshire,  Eng- 
land, became  so  serious  as  to  make  government  help 
necessary  to  keep  them  from  starving,  and  in  1862  and 
1863  Dr.  Edward  Smith  was  commissioned  to  examine 
into  the  the  dietetic  needs  of  the  distressed  operatives. 


English  investigations.  $ 

In  his  report  for  1863  are  found  tables  of  the  food  con- 
sumed per  week  by  634  families,  and  in  spite  of  the  dif- 
ficulties standing  in  the  way  of  such  an  investigation, 
the  foods  consumed  were  classified  into  tables  showing 
the  amounts  of  the  different  food  principles  taken 
per  week  by  each  family. 

One  of  the  great  practical  results  following  from 
this  investigation  was  the  determination  of  the  mini- 
mum amount  of  each  nutritive  principle  which  men, 
women  and  children  need,  to  keep  them  in  fair  health. 
The  amount  of  food  with  which  an  unemployed  man 
can  fight  off  starvation,  and  the  diseases  temporarily 
incident  to  it,  was  found  to  be  represented  in  35  ounces 
of  good  bread  per  day,  and  the  necessary  amount  of 
wholesome  water. 

Since  the  publication  of  Dr.  Smith's  report  similar 
inquiries  have  been  instituted  by  the  scientists  of  other 
countries,  and  many  analyses  have  been  made  of 
the  exact  amount  and  kinds  of  food  eaten  by  various 
classes  of  laborers  under  the  most  varied  conditions. 
Professors  Voit  and  Pettenkofer  of  Munich  have  even 
accounted  for  every  particle  of  food  that  passed 
through  the  body  of  a  man,  both  while  he  was  at  work 
and  while  he  was  idle.  They  have  also  noted  how 
much  of  his  own  body  was  consumed  when  he  ate 
nothing.  Finally,  a  great  number  of  averages  have 
been  taken  and  so-called  "  standard  dietaries"  con- 
structed, by  which  is  meant  the  average  amount  of 
each  of  the  chief  food  principles  that  keep  an  average 
muscle-worker  in  good  condition,  when  doing  aver- 
age work. 

Every  one  will  admit  that  it  is  of  great  importance 


4  Applications  to  tlie  Household. 

for  the  farmer  to  know  in  what  proportion  he  shall 
lay  in  hay  and  other  food  for  the  winter  feeding  of 
his  stock;  the  animals  must  thrive,  but  there  must 
be  no  waste  by  furnishing  food  in  the  wrong  quanti- 
ties or  proportions. 

For  the  housewife,  the  food  question  in  its  relation 
^to  her  family  can  be  stated  in  the  very  same  words. 
It  is  important  that  she  should  economize,  but  her 
path  will  be  full  of  pitfalls  if  she  does  not  understand 
in  what  true  economy  consists.  Most  people  with  a 
real  interest  in  this  subject,  have  had  at  some  period 
of  their  lives  certain  pet  theories  as  to  food.  Per- 
haps they  have  been  at  one  time  convinced  that  most 
people  ate  too  much,  at  another,  that  meat  was  the 
all  strengthener,  or  they  may  have  been  afflicted 
with  the  vegetarian  fad,  and  whatever  their  special 
views  have  been  they  have  thought  that  they  rested 
them  upon  facts.  But  surely  they  would  never  have 
pinned  their  faith  to  one-sided  diets  if  they  had 
rightly  comprehended  the  main  facts  of  nutrition. 
We  believe  that  if  these  facts  as  at  present  interpreted, 
and  the  world's  experience  in  applying  them,  can  be 
put  at  the  command  of  the  housewife,  she  can  use 
them  to  great  profit. 

We  have  employed  the  term  "food  principles"; 
what  do  we  mean  by  it  ?  Everyone  knows  what  is 
meant  by  a  food,  as  meat  or  bread,  and  everyone 
knows  that  the  food  offered  us  by  our  butchers  and 
grocers  comes  from  the  animal  and  vegetable  king- 
doms. The  oxygen  we  breathe  and  the  water  we 
drink  nature  furnishes  for  us  directly,  so  to  speak, 
though  unfortunately  for  many  of  us,  and  especially 


Food  Principles.  5 

for  young  children,  the  former  is  not  thought  of  as  a 
food.  Oxygen  aside,  it  has  been  found  by  those  who 
have  studied  the  matter,  that  all  foods  contain  one  or 
more  of  five  classes  of  constituents,  called  "nutritive 
ingredients"  or  "food  principles."  These  five  prin- 
ciples are: 

(1)  Water. 

(2)  Proteids. 

(3)  Fats. 

(4)  Carbohydrates. 

(  5 )  Salts  or  mineral  constituents. 

WATER. 

It  is  important  to  note  that  our  bodies  when  full- 
grown  are  two-thirds  water,  and  that  our  food  con- 
tains from  1  to  94$  of  it.  Considering  the  scope  of 
this  essay,  it  must  be  left  to  take  care  of  itself  as  a 
food. 

PEOTEIDS. 

A  class  of  nearly  allied  bodies  is  included  under 
this  head.  The  whole  class  is  sometimes  called 
"Albumens." 

The  housewife  is  familiar  with  proteids  in  such 
foods  as  the  lean  of  meat,  in  eggs  and  cheese.  These 
contain  the  principle  in  various  proportions ;  for 
example, 

Lean  of  meat  has  15-21     % 

Eggs  in  both  white  and  yolk      -  12.5$ 

Fresh  cows'  milk  on  an  average      -         -       3.4$ 
Cheese  •    25-30    $ 

Dried  Codfish         -        -        -        -        -    30 


6  Food  Principles. 

Vegetables  are  more  deficient  in  proteids  though 
the  grains  and  legumes  contain  much  of  it. 

Wheat  flour  has  10  to  12    % 

Peas,  beans  and  Lentils  have        22.85  to  27.7$ 

In  fresh  vegetables  we  find  only  from  -£  to  3$, 
excepting  green  peas  and  beans  in  which  the  proteids 
reach  5  to  6.5$. 

FATS. 

Fats  are  obtained  from  both  the  animal  and  veg- 
etable kingdoms.  Those  used  by  us  in  cookery  come 
mostly  from  animals,  and  are  known  to  the  house- 
wife as  butter,  lard  and  tallow.  Vegetable  food  as  a 
rule,  is  very  poor  in  fats,  containing  from  0  to  3$ 
only. 

Some  of  the  cereals,  like  corn  and  oats  contain 
from  4  to  7$  of  fats. 

CARBOHYDRATES. 

The  bodies  classed  as  "carbohydrates"  are  found 
mainly  in  vegetables.  The  housekeeper  knows  them 
as  starches  and  sugars. 

Under  the  starches  proper  are  included  such 
things  as  the  starches  of  grains  and  seeds,  Iceland 
moss,  gums  and  dextrin. 

Milk  is  one  of  the  few  animal  products  that  has 
more  than  a  very  small  quantity  of  carbohydrates. 
It  contains  on  the  average  about  4.8$  of  this  prin- 
ciple ; — slightly  more  than  of  either  proteids  or  fats. 

SALTS. 
The  things  that  give  hardness  to  our  bones?  like 


Functions  of  Food  Principles.  7 

calcium  phosphate,  and  the  common  salt  with  which 
we  flavor  our  food,  illustrate  this  class. 

FUNCTIONS   OF   FOOD   PRINCIPLES. 

To  know  in  what  proportion  these  food  principles 
should  be  represented  in  our  diet,  we  must  inquire 
into  the  part  played  by  each  of  them  in  the  body.  The 
first  and  the  last  principle  may  be  dismissed  briefly. 
The  former,  water,  is  the  great  medium  which  floats 
things  through  the  body ;  the  latter,  salts,  are  com- 
bined in  various  ways  with  the  solids  and  fluids  of 
our  foods,  and  we  shall  not  easily  suffer  from  lack  of 
them. 

The  other  three  food  principles  (let  us  call  them  in 
the  following  pages  the  three  great  food  principles), 
cannot  be  so  summarily  dealt  with.  We  might  say, 
briefly  and  dogmatically,  that  the  proteids  are  "flesh 
foods,"  the  fats  are  "heat  foods/'  the  carbohydrates 
"  work  foods."  To  be  sure,  experimenters  are  agreed 
on  the  main  points,  but  the  different  schools  are  still 
at  war  on  the  final  explanations  and  on  many  details, 
and  it  has  become  more  and  more  evident  that  we 
cannot  portion  off  the  work  of  the  body  in  this  sim- 
ple style.  Though  each  of  the  three  great  food  prin- 
ciples can  be  said  to  have  a  favorite  part  which  it 
plays  better  than  any  other,  yet  we  find  that  like  an 
actor  of  varied  talents,  it  has  more  than  one  role  in 
its  repertoire. 

FUNCTION   OF   PROTEIDS. 

That  this  class  is  indispensable  we  have  the  best 
of  proofs.  It  must  be  given  us  in  one  or  another  of  its 


8  Function  of  Proteids. 

forms,  for,  even  if  we  are  not  athletes,  nearly  one  half 
of  our  body  is  made  up  of  muscle  which  is  one  fifth 
proteid,  and  the  nitrogen  in  this  proteid  can  only  be 
furnished  by  proteid  again,  since  neither  fats  nor  car- 
bohydrates contain  any  of  it ;  therefore  in  making  up 
bills  of  fare,  let  us  remember  that  growing  and  working 
proteid,  yes,  even  idle  proteid  as  Dr.  Smith  found, 
needs  proteid,  and  that  there  is  nothing  in  any  of 
the  other  food  principles  that  can  entirely  take  its 
place. 

Though  we  think  of  proteid  mostly  as  a  great  body 
builder  and  restorer,  it  can  also  to  some  extent  fur- 
nish fat  when  it  stands  in  a  certain  relation  to  the 
fats  and  carbohydrates  of  our  food,  and  we  are  assured 
by  experimenters  that  it  also  furnishes  heat  and  mus- 
cle energy  under  certain  conditions. 

In  these  last  two  activities,  however,  it  is  far  ex- 
celled by  fats  and  carbohydrates.  We  shall  therefore 
think  of  it  as  the  nitrogen-furnisher  of  our  tissues, 
and  also  as  the  grand  stimulant  among  foods,  incit- 
ing the  body,  as  it  does,  to  burn  up  more  of  other 
kinds. 

Scientists,  at  one  time,  held  the  opinion  that  our 
muscle  energy  comes  chiefly  from  proteids.  This  view 
has  been  abandoned,  but  many  a  working  man  still 
believes  that  meat  is  the  only  kind  of  food  that  is  of 
any  account;  he  thinks  of  fats  and  starches  as  quite 
unimportant  comparatively.  Now  it  has  been  proved 
over  and  over  again,  that  we  can  combine  meat  with 
fats  and  vegetable  food  in  such  a  proportion  that  it 
shall  play  only  its  main  r61e,  viz.,  that  of  building 
and  restoring,  while  these  latter  furnish  the  heat  and 


Function  of  Fats  and  Carbohydrates.  9 

muscle  energy  needed.  Proteid  food  is  such  a  costly 
article  that  it  will  not  do  to  put  it  at  work  which 
cheaper  material  can  do  even  better. 

FUNCTION   OF   FATS. 

The  fats  also  have  more  than  one  office  in  the  body. 
They  can  be  stored  as  body  fat,  or  they  can  be  burned 
and  give  off  heat,  and  they  may  also  serve  as  a  source 
of  muscular  energy,  in  an  indirect  manner  at  least. 

FUNCTION   OF   CARBOHYDRATES. 

The  Carbohydrate  principle  furnishes  fat  to  our 
tissues,  and  is  a  source  of  heat  and  muscle  energy, 
indeed  the  chief  source  of  muscle  energy  in  all  ordi- 
nary diets. 

FLAVORINGS. 

So  far  we  have  had  chiefly  in  mind  the  real  work- 
ing constituents  of  food,  if  we  may  so  speak.  But 
many  things  cannot  be  studied  or  classified  in  the 
above  way;  they  must  be  looked  at  from  another 
point  of  view. 

Thus,  a  pinch  of  pepper,  a  cup  of  coffee,  a  fine, 
juicy  strawberry, — what  of  these?  They  may  con- 
tain all  five  of  the  food  principles,  but  who  cares  for 
the  proteid  action  or  carbohydrate  effect  of  his  cup 
of  good  coffee  at  breakfast,  or  what  interest  for  us 
has  the  heating  effect  of  the  volatile  oil  to  which  the 
strawberry  owes  a  part  of  its  delicious  taste? 

Surely  the  economical  housekeeper  who  would 
throw  out  of  the  list  of  necessaries  all  the  things  that 
tickle  the  palate,  that  rouse  the  sense  of  smell,  that 


10  Flavorings. 

please  the  eye  and  stimulate  our  tired  nerves,  just 
because  these  things  contain  but  little  food,  would 
make  a  grave  mistake.  She  may  know  just  what  cuts 
of  meat  to  buy,  what  vegetables  are  most  healthful 
and  economical,  but  if  she  does  not  understand  how 
to  "make  the  mouth  water,"  her  labor  is  largely  lost. 
Especially  if  she  has  but  little  money,  should  she  pay 
great  attention  to  this  subject,  for  it  is  the  only  way 
to  induce  the  body  to  take  up  plain  food  with  relish. 
The  list  of  these  spices,  flavors,  harmless  drinks 
and  the  like,  is  a  long  one.  Unfortunately,  we  have 
no  comprehensive  word  that  will  include  everything 
of  the  sort,  from  a  sprig  of  parsley  to  a  cup  of  coifee; 
the  German  calls  them  "  Genuss-mittel " — "  pleasure- 
giving  things." 

PROPORTIONS   AND   AMOUNTS  OF   FOOD   PRINCIPLES. 

We  have  brought  our  discussion  of  the  three  great 
food  principles  to  the  point  where  we  can  enquire  in 
what  proportions  and  amounts  these  should  be  repre- 
sented in  our  diet. 

The  standard  daily  dietary  that  is  most  frequently 
cited,  and  which,  perhaps,  best  represents  the  food 
consumption  of  the  average  European  workman  in 
towns,  is  that  proposed  by  Prof.  Voit.  This  dietary 
was  made  upon  the  basis  of  a  large  number  of  ob- 
served cases.  It  demands  for  a  man  of  average  size, 
engaged  in  average  manual  labor, 

Proteids.*  Fats.  Carbohydrates. 

118  gms.  56  gms.  500  gms. 

Now  it  is  the  opinion  of  all  competent  judges,  that 

*28. 34  grams.  =  1  oz. 


Standard  Dietaries.  11 

at  least  one  third  of  this  proteid  should  come  from 
the  animal  kingdom,  and  this  one  third,  if  given  in 
the  form  of  fresh  beef,  would  be  represented  by  230 
grams  of  butcher's  meat,  calculated  to  consist  of 
Bone  and  tendon,       -  18  gms. 

Fat,       -  -     21    <{ 

Lean,  191   " 

When  we  take  whole  populations  into  account,  we 
find  that  little,  if  any,  more  meat  than  this  falls  to 
each  person  per  day.     Thus  the  average  consumption 
per  day  for  three  great  cities  is  given  as  follows; 
Berlin,  135  gms.  per  cap. 

New  York,     -  -    226     "      "      " 

London,     -  274     "     "      " 

Of  course  these  averages  include  children,  but  they 
also  include  great  numbers  of  the  well-to-do,  who  eat 
much  more  meat  than  their  bodies  need. 

We  will  add  a  few  more  examples  of  dietaries, 
some  of  which  are  used  by  the  writer  in  making  out 
the  bills  of  fare  given  in  this  essay. 

Proteids,      Fats,     Carbohydrates, 
gms.  gms.  gms. 


145  100  450        r°P°se       £     «>.  for 

a  man  at  hard  work. 

-J^Q  gg  gQQ      Allowed  to  German  soldiers 

irtn  IKA  KAA      Proposed  by  Prof.  Atwater 

for  American  at  hard  work. 

I«K  -ii)K  /IKA      By  the  same  for  American 

at  moderate  work. 


100  60  400      Proposed  b7  Prof-  Voit  for 

a  woman. 

on  K(\  son      By   the   same   for   children 

from  7  to  15  years, 


12  Standard  Dietaries. 

We  will  give  an  instance  of  how  much  below  these 
figures  the  amount  consumed  sometimes  falls. 

Prof.  Boehm  found  that  a  poor  North  German 
family,  consisting  of  a  man,  wife  and  a  child  five 
years  old,  had  in  one  week  for  their  food : 

Potatoes,  -  41  Ibs. 

Eye  flour,     -  -     2£  Ibs. 

Meat,  If  Ibs. 

Rice,     -  £  Ib. 

Rye  Bread,  12  Ibs. 
A  very  little  milk. 

Calculating  the  food  principles  contained  in  these 
amounts,  we  find  that  the  three  individuals  daily 
consumed  of: 

Proteids,  Fats,  Carbohydrates, 

175.5  gms.  41  gms.  1251.  gms. 

It  needs  no  comment  to  show  how  insufficient  is 
this  dietary  in  amount,  and  how  incorrect  in  pro- 
portion. 

"We  have  selected  Prof.  Atwater's  dietary  for  a  man 
at  moderate  manual  labor  as  the  basis  of  our  twelve 
bills  of  fare  and  have  taken  Voit's  standard  for  women 
and  children. 

Our  climate  is  more  trying  and  our  people  work 
faster,  and  we  shall  do  well  to  allow  more  fat  and  meat 
to  our  working-man  than  the  foreign  dietaries  provide. 
If  our  man  is  to  get  daily  one-third  of  his  proteid 
in  the  form  of  animal  food,  this  would  be  represented 
by  8  ozs.  of  butcher's  meat  (without  bone),  by  from 
5  to  5.8  ozs.  cheese,  or  by  8  eggs. 


American  Needs.  13 

We  believe  that  it  is  better  to  go  a  little  high  rather 
than  too  low  with  proteid  food.  As  a  rule,  people 
who  eat  enough  porteids,  and  especially  enough  animal 
food,  are  vigorous  and  have  what  we  call  "  stamina," 
and  doctors  incline  to  the  belief  that  such  people 
resist  disease  better  because  their  blood  and  tissue  are 
less  watery  than  in  the  case  of  people  who  draw  their 
proteids  almost  entirely  from  such  vegetables  as  pota- 
toes. But  many  workingmen  in  America  would  be 
surprised  to  learn  how  well  health  and  strength  can 
be  maintained  on  what  is,  after  all,  not  such  a  very 
large  amount  of  meat,  provided  the  rest  of  the  dietary 
contain?  enough  vegetable  proteid  and  fat. 

PRACTICAL   APPLICATIONS. 

It  now  remains  for  us  to  see  whether  the  economist 
can  get  practical  help  from  the  foregoing  facts  about 
the  character  of  foods  and  the  use  that  is  made  of 
them  in  the  body. 

'..We  have  seen  that  we  cannot  economize  in  the 
amount  of  our  food  beyond  certain  limits  and  yet  re- 
main healthy  and  strong,;  also  that  we  must  not 
greatly  alter  the  relative  proportions  in  which  expe- 
rience has  shown  that  these  foods  are  best  combined. 
The  true  field  of  household  economy  has,  then, 
certain  prescribed  limits. 

Its  scope  lies,  1st.  In  furnishing  a  certain  food 
principle  in  its  cheap  rather  than  its  dear  form; 
for  example,  the  proteid  of  beef  instead  of  that  of 
chicken,  fat  of  meat  instead  of  butter.  2nd.  Hav- 
ing bought  foods  wisely,  in  cooking  them  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  bring  out  their  full  nutritive  value;  for 


14  Scope  of  the  Economist. 

instance,  making  a  roast  juicy  and  delicious  instead 
of  dry  and  tasteless.  3d.  In  learning  how  to  use 
every  scrap  of  food  to  advantage,  as  in  soup  making, 
and  4th,  if  we  add  to  these  the  art  of  so  flavoring  and 
varying  as  to  make  simple  materials  relish,  we  have 
covered  the  whole  field  of  the  household  economist, 
so  far  as  the  food  question  is  concerned. 

We  hope  she  will  find  help  in  the  following  pages, 
for  it  will  be  part  of  our  task  in  this  essay  to  examine 
different  articles  of  food  as  to  their  nutritive  value,  and 
to  recommend  such  combinations  and  such  methods  of 
cooking  as  will  make  the  utmost  out  of  a  certain  sum 
of  money.  As  to  foods,  we  have  in  America  a  large 
range  of  choice;  staple  raw  products  cost  less  generally 
than  they  do  in  Europe  and  the  laboring  man  here 
has  somewhat  more  money  to  buy  with.  The  anxious 
provider,  who  must  feed  many  mouths  on  what  seems 
an  insufficient  sum,  may  feel  assured  that  he  can, 
without  doubt,  learn  to  do  better  than  he  now  does. 
In  this  line  we  must  not  disdain  to  learn  lessons 
wherever  we  can. 

There  is  an  unfortunate  prejudice  among  us  against 
learning  of  foreign  countries.  The  American  work- 
man says  indignantly  that  he  does  not  want  to  learn 
how  to  live  on  "  starvation  wages."  But  the  facts, 
viewed  coolly,  are  just  these:  the  inhabitants  of  older 
countries  have  learned  some  lessons  that  we  too 
must  soon  learn  whether  we  will  or  no,  and  to  profit 
by  these  lessons  before  we  are  really  obliged  to,  will 
in  no  way  lower  wages,  it  will  simply  help  us  to  get 
more  comfort  and  pleasure  out  of  our  money. 

Students  of  economy,  political  and  domestic,  find 


Lessons  from  Foreign  Countries.  IS 

no  better  school  than  the  experience  of  older 
countries,  and  constantly  draw  lessons  from  their 
greater  thrift  and  economy  in  living.  Mrs.  Helen 
Campbell  found,  among  the  poor  sewing  women  of 
New  York,  that  none  were  skillful  in  cooking  their 
scanty  food  excepting  only  the  German  and  Swiss 
women.  All  observing  travelers  unanimously  give 
this  testimony, — "If  our  American  workman  knew 
how  to  make  as  much  of  his  large  wage  as  the  for- 
eigner does  of  his  small  one,  he  could  live  in  luxury." 

But  you  ask,  what  are  the  special  lessons  to  be 
learned  of  the  foreign  housewife?  We  answer,  chiefly 
self-denial  and  saving.  Do  not  give  up  in  despair 
because  you  have  a  small  income  and  resign  yourself 
to  living  meanly,  in  a  hand  to  mouth  fashion.  Dili- 
gent study  of  the  question  and  resolute  abstention  from 
luxuries  will  solve  the  problem,  if  it  can  be  solved. 

We  indulge  ourselves  and  our  children  too  much 
in  what  tastes  good,  while  all  the  time  we  know  we  have 
not  money  enough  to  buy  necessaries.  For  instance, 
the  consumption  of  sugar  in  America  was  in  1887,  56 
Ibs.  per  head,  in  Germany  hardly  more  than  one  third 
that  amount.  This  means  a  larger  consumption  of 
sweetmeats  than  we  can  afford  and  at  the  same  time 
be  well  fed  otherwise. 

We  seem,  in  general,  to  spend  too  much  money  in 
our  country  on  food  compared  with  what  we  use  in 
other  directions;  one  great  trouble  is  that  we  do  not 
know  how  to  save  every  scrap  of  food  and  use  it 
again  in  some  form.  For  one  thing,  we  have  yet  to 
learn  the  great  art  of  soup  making, — and  it  seems 
also,  of  soup  eating. 


1  fi  Soups. 

rrhc  American  housekeeper  would  say  to  me :  "This 
is  nothing  new,  for  years  we've  been  hearing  about 
soups.  We  don't  like  soups! "  I  only  ask,  "  have  you 
tried  them  for  a  considerable  length  of  time,  so  that 
you  have  become  skilled  in  making  them,  and  your 
family  used  to  their  taste?"  One  fact  alone  ought 
to  insure  for  them  a  good  trial;  that  at  least  three 
nations,  the  French,  German  and  Italian,  make  daily 
use  of  them  and  have  for  generations.  To  take  part 
of  our  food  in  this  form  is  an  absolute  necessity  if  we 
are  to  do  the  best  possible  with  a  certain  amount  of 
money. 

PRACTICAL     DIFFICULTIES. 

The  practical  difficulties  in  the  way  of  improve- 
ment in  household  cookery  are  not  small.  As  cook, 
we  have  the  wife  and  mother,  who  has  too  little  time 
for  this  very  important  branch  of  household  work; 
she  has  had,  perhaps,  no  good  training  in  the  art 
of  cookery  (for  it  is  an  art),  and  besides,  her 
kitchen  and  kitchen  utensils  are  not  at  all  what 
they  should  be.  Indeed,  the  qualifications  for  a  given 
task  could  not  well  be  further  from  the  ideal. 

In  Europe  families  of  small  means  have  many 
helps  unknown  to  us.  In  the  first  place,  bread  is 
never  baked  at  home,  the  bakers'  bread  being  both 
excellent  and  cheap.  It  would  seem  that  among  us, 
bakers'  bread  must  shortly  improve  in  quality  and 
decrease  in  price ;  either  the  profits  must  be  too 
large,  or  the  business  not  well  managed.  For 
instance,  in  those  parts  of  Germany  where  white 
bread  is  eaten  as  a  staple,  it  costs  a  trifle  over  3 


The  Foreign  Housekeeper.  17 

cents  a  pound,  while  flour  of  average  quality  costs 
about  the  same.  In  contrast  with  this,  compare  the 
prices  of  bread  and  flour  in  our  own  country  where 
in  no  large  city  is  bread  quoted  at  less  than  7  cents, 
while  flour  costs  3  cents.  That  is,  bread  costs  in  Ger- 
many about  the  same  as  flour  and  in  America  more 
than  twice  as  much;  and  yet  the  German  baker  is  no- 
tably a  prosperous  person  ! 

The  foreign  housekeeper  has  still  further  help  from 
the  baker.  If  she  makes  a  cake  or  pie,  she  sends  it 
out  to  be  baked,  and  pays  from  one  to  two  cents 
(the  fuel  would  have  cost  more);  joints  of  meat  and. 
mixed  dishes  are  also  sent  to  be  baked  for  the  same 
price;  and  before  any  bakeshop  in  a  German  city,  at 
noon  on  Sunday,  can  be  seen  a  line  of  servant  girls, 
each  in  turn  receiving  a  steaming  dish  as  it  is  taken 
from  the  oven.  The  soup  kitchens  (  Voiles  Kuchen) 
of  various  grades  are  also  a  great  help.  The  writer 
has  repeatedly  had  brought  from  one  of  them  an  excel- 
lent meat  broth  ( 1  pt.  for  2  cents ),  and  good  cooked 
vegetables  are  furnished  for  a  price  less  than  they 
could  be  cooked  for  at  home,  if  one  took  any  account 
of  time  and  fire. 

But  such  helps  are  not  yet  to  any  great  extent 
available  to  the  American  woman;  she  must  wrestle 
with  her  own  problem  at  home  and  solve  it  as  best 
she  can. 


THE  KITCHEK 


The  kitchen  of  a  woman  of  average  means  is  not 
the  ideal  kitchen.  It  is  perhaps  too  small  or  not 
light  enough,  or  it  may  have  still  more  serious  defects, 
as  a  bad  drain.  We  must  take  it  as  it  is,  however, 
requiring  only  that  it  contain  what  is  necessary  to 
the  end  we  have  in  view, —  plain  cooking  for  a  fam- 
ily of  six. 

In   the  cheaper  city   dwellings  the 

Size  of  Kitchen.    ,  .,    ,  .  in     ,. 

kitchen  is  small,  too  small  lor  good 
ventilation,  and  for  the  heavier  kinds  of  work  as 
washing;  but  for  cooking,  a  very  small  kitchen  can 
be  so  arranged  as  to  answer  every  purpose. 

Any  one  who  has  seen  a  ship's  kitchen  can  under- 
stand this.  The  cook  as  he  stands  before  his  range 
is  within  reach  of  all  his  stores,  for  rows  of  drawers 
and  shelves  literally  line  the  walls  from  floor  to  ceil- 
ing, little  tables  for  pastry  or  cake  making  are 
drawn  out  of  the  wall  and  pushed  in  again  when  not 
wanted,  and  every  inch  of  floor  and  wall  space  is  used 
to  the  best  advantage.  This  cook  would  tell  you  that 
he  did  not  want  a  larger  kitchen ;  he  would  only  lose 
time  running  about  in  it. 

Begin  to  utilize  the  wall  space.     If 

you   have  not  yet  as  many  shelves  as 

the  walls  will  accommodate,  put  up  more,  and  espe- 

18 


Arrangement  of  Kitchen.  19 

cially  about  and  above  the  stove,  so  that  as  you  stand 
at  your  cooking  you  can  reach  salt,  pepper  and  every 
other  flavor  that  can  be  used  in  a  soup  or  stew;  cook- 
ing spoons  and  forks  and  knives,  potlids  and  holders 
— all  these  should  be  at  your  hand.  Let  a  carpenter 
fasten  into  the  mortared  wall  strips  of  wood  that  will 
hold  nails  and  a  few  shelves,  and  if  the  stove  is  in  a 
niche  with  wall  on  two  or  even  three  sides  of  it,  all 
the  better.  On  these  nails  should  hang  nearly  every 
implement  used  in  cooking,  and  on  the  shelves  should 
be  found  all  spices  and  flavors;  farther  back  can  be 
placed  what  is  more  seldom  used.  If  there  are  no 
drawers,  never  mind,  use  close  tin  boxes  for  as  many 
things  as  you  can;  if  no  closed  cupboard  for  your 
dishes,  hang  a  curtain  before  the  open  shelves. 

The  nearer  your  sink  is  to  the  stove  the  better, 
that  is  the  path  your  feet  must  oftenest  travel. 
There  must  be  a  table  of  some  sort  very  near  the 
stove;  if  it  is  a  movable  one,  all  the  better,  or  it 
may  be  a  broad  shelf  with  a  very  strong  and  safe 
hinged  support  under  it,  letting  down  when  not  in 
use. 

I  take  for  granted  that  the  main  part  of  your  work 
is  to  be  done  on  this  stove  and  table,  and  that  a  well 
stocked  pantry,  fitted  out  for  the  making  of  pastry 
and  cake  and  elaborate  dishes,  is  not  within  your  reach 
any  more  than  the  time  for  making  such. 
TT,  ..  The  utensils  you  need  are  few,  but 

utensils*  -  fl 

these  few  you  must  have.  Consider 
the  value  of  the  food  materials  that  you  use;  a  few 
burns  on  an  old  sauce  pan  will  quite  buy  a  new  one. 
We  will  speak  only  of  the  most  important  and  abso- 
lutely necessary  utensils. 


20  Utensils. 

First,  do  not  use  tin ;  it  is  cheap,  but  coal  is  not, 
and  you  will  waste  a  great  deal  of  coal  in  trying  to 
cook  in  tin.  Brass  and  copper  cooking  vessels  are  to 
be  avoided  by  one  who  must  economize,  as  they  are 
expensive  and  require  too  much  care  to  keep  them 
free  from  the  poisonous  verdigris. 

Of  chief  importance  among  your  utensils  is  a  flat 
bottomed  iron  pot  with  close  fitting  iron  lid.  Get 
the  smoothest  and  best,  even  if  it  cost  double.  In 
this  you  will  roast  meat  with  little  fire,  cook  vege- 
tables, all  but  peas  and  beans,  cook  anything  indeed 
that  is  not  acid.  Have  two  of  these,  if  you  can,  of 
different  sizes.  Next,  an  iron  frying  pan,  also  of 
the  smoothest  wrought  iron  and  light;  this  too 
should  have  a  close  fitting  cover.  Some  people  con- 
sider iron  utensils  heavy  and  old  fashioned,  but  where 
economy  is  an  object,  no  other  ware  is  so  good  and 
satisfactory.  The  blue  or  grey  enamelled  ware  is  very 
nice  but  will  not  stand  great  heat  and  easily  chips 
and  cracks,  but  you  should  have  one  kettle  of  this 
ware  as  it  is  valuable  for  cooking  fruit  and  anything 
acid.  You  must  have  a  wire  gridiron  for  toasting 
bread  and  broiling  meat ;  this  you  should  use  for 
many  things  which  you  now  cook  in  the  frying  pan. 
The  tea-kettle  is  a  matter  of  course,  and  a  griddle. 
There  is  one  other  utensil  not  as  common,  but  which 
deserves  to  be,  viz. ,  a  steamer ;  a  simple  pot  with 
perforated  bottom  which  will  fit  tightly  into  the  top 
of  the  iron  pot,  and  have  a  very  tightly  fitting  cover. 
Its  use  will  be  discussed  later. 

You  can  hardly  do  without  a  number  of  earthen 
jugs,  glazed  with  lead-free  enamel,  especially  for 


Fuel  21 

cooking  and  holding  milk.  Get  also  a  number  of 
wooden  spoons;  they  are  cheap  and  clean,  and  of  con- 
venient shape  for  stirring.  The  old  fashioned  pud- 
ding stick  of  the  Yankee  kitchen  is  the  earliest  form 
among  us,  and  many  people  know  no  other. 

A  good  stove  is  of  first  importance  in  a 
kitchen,  but  fortunately  good  stoves  have 
become  common.  A  graver  question,  however,  is  the 
cost  of  fuel  to  be  burned  in  them.  Of  course  coal 
must  be  the  stand-by,  and  when  the  stove  is  heated 
up  as  on  ironing  and  baking  days,  care  can  be  taken 
to  use  the  fire  to  its  fullest  capacity;  in  winter, 
dishes  can  be  cooked  ahead  for  several  days. 

To  cook  a  single  dish  or  for  boiling  a  tea- 
Coal  on.     .      ,,,  I'!  •  •  *L '         1 

kettle  a  coal  oil  stove  is  a  saving;  it  is  also 
invaluable  for  keeping  a  pot  at  a  simmering  heat, — a 
thing  very  difficult  to  accomplish  on  a  stove. 

For  the  same  purpose,  and  for  any  steady 

Charcoal.  '  *    „      ,       .,.  J, 

cooking,  and  above  all  for  broiling  meat,  every 
housekeeper  ought  to  have  appliances  for  burning 
charcoal;  it  only  needs  a  grating  with  a  rim  2  or  3 
inches  high,  to  let  down  into  the  stove  hole  (a  sort  of 
deep  spider  with  a  grated  bottom).  For  such  pur- 
poses, a  bushel  of  hard  wood  charcoal  costing  15  or 
20  cents  would  last  a  long  time.  Charcoal  is  almost 
the  only  fuel  used  in  Paris  for  cooking;  indeed, 
throughout  France  and  in  Western  Germany  it  is  in 
very  common  use. 

For  "Cooking  Safe"  as  a  saver  of 

•'Cooking  Safe." 

iiiel,  see  page  44. 


PKOTEID-COOTAINT^G  FOODS 

AND    THEIR    PREPARATION. 


We  have  already  in  the  Introduction  called  atten- 
tion to  the  importance  of  this  food  principle.  It  is 
well  for  us  to  bear  in  mind  that  there  are  three  great 
classes  of  Proteids,  Albumens  proper,  Caseins,  and 
and  Fibrins,  and  that  in  both  plants  and  animals  are 
found  representatives  of  these  three  classes.  Thus, 
in  plant  juices  and  in  eggs  we  have  things  belonging 
to  the  Albumen  class;  in  the  curd  of  sour  milk  and 
in  the  legumine  of  the  pod-covered  plants  we  have 
examples  of  caseins;  and  in  the  gluten  of  grains  and 
in  the  clot  whipped  out  of  blood  we  have  examples 
of  fibrins. 

AKIMAL    FOODS. 

Our  animal  foods  contain  some  other  things  that 
the  housewife  ranks  with  proteids  and  we  have  a  few 
words  to  say  about  one  of  them,  viz.,  gelatine,  that 
nitrogenous  substance  boiled  out  of  bones  and  car- 
tilage. 

In  the  history  of  foods  this  gelatine, 

Gelatine,  Hist,  of    ,.,  ,    J   ,     ,  ,         ,° 

like  meat  extract,  has  played  a  great 
part.  Before  the  real  functions  of  the  food  princi- 
ples were  understood  it  was  thought  that  what  could 
be  extracted  by  water  from  a  piece  of  meat  comprised 
all  in  it  that  was  of  value  to  the  body;  and  so  it  hap- 


Gelatine.  23 

pened  that  for  more  than  a  hundred  years  after  Papin 
had  discovered  the  method  of  extracting  all  the  gel- 
atine out  of  bones  (which  he  did  by  the  aid  of  that 
contrivance  still  known  in  kitchens  as  the  "Papin 
Soup  Digester  ")  gelatine  was  considered  to  be  one  of 
the  most,  if  not  the  most  nourishing  constituent  of 
meats.  In  the  last  decade  of  the  18th  century,  and 
in  the  early  part  of  this  the  French  made  great  use 
of  gelatine  under  the  impression  that  it  was  a  proteid 
because  it  yielded  nitrogen  to  the  chemist.  Improved 
methods  of  extracting  it  were  invented,  and  so  gen- 
eral did  its  use  become,  especially  in  the  public  insti- 
tutions of  Paris,  that  from  1829-38,  two  and  three 
quarters  million  portions  of  bone-gelatine  soup  were 
dealt  out  to  the  inmates  of  a  single  hospital.  But  in 
spite  of  the  opinions  of  eminent  scientists  that  gela- 
tine soups  and  gelatine  tablets  were  a  perfect  substi- 
tute for  proteids,  their  consumption  decreased;  physi- 
cians again  took  hold  of  the  subject,  and  by  the 
middle  of  the  century  opinion  had  so  changed  that 
nearly  all,  if  not  all,  food  value  was  denied  to  them. 
Modern  experimentation  based  on  more  rational  meth- 
ods has  put  gelatine  in  its  right  place.  It  is  a  food,  just 
as  much  so  as  is  fat,  but  like  fat  it  cannot  play  the 
role  of  proteid  although  a  certain  amount  taken  with 
fats  and  carbohydrates  will  enable  the  body  to  get 
along  with  a  little  less  proteid.  It  is  even  said  by 
Prof.  Voit  to  excel  fat  in  its  ability  to  do  half  duty 
for  proteid  material. 

We  have  thought  it  well  to  speak  of  this  because 
of  a  sort  of  superstitious  regard  in  the  kitchen  for 
"  stock,"  a  survival,  one  would  think,  of  Papin's  time. 


24  Extractives. 

A  good  German  housewife  was  wont  to  discourse  to 
the  writer  on  the  economical  virtues  of  a  certain 
"Frau  Doctor"  who  "always  boiled  her  bones  three 
times  "  and  dwellers  in  many  a  household  have  had 
their  nostrils  assailed  by  the  smell  of  glue,  during 
the  sixth  hour  of  bone  boiling. 

But  if  the  importance  of  gelatine  was  and  is  still 
exaggerated,  this  is  still  more  true  of  the  other  parts 
of  meat  that  can  be  extracted  by  water, 
sol.  Albumen  and       We  have  seen  that  hot  water  coag- 

Extractives.  ulates  proteid,  and  once  coagulated, 
it  will  not  dissolve  in  water,  and  for  this  reason  the 
soup  generally  contains  of  this  valuable  principle  only 
the  soluble  albumen  which  rose  as  scum.  If  the  cook 
has  skimmed  this  off,  the  soup  which  she  calls  strong 
is  strong  with  flavors  rather  than  with  nutritive  princi- 
ples. 

To  show  how  very  little  real  food  a  good  tasting 
meat  soup  may  contain,  we  will  give  an  analysis  made 
by  Prof.  Konig. 

He  took  1  Ib.  of  beef  and  about  G-j- 

Analysis  of  Soup.  „         ,  ,  ,    .         .     ,    . ,  , 

oz.  oi  veal  bones,  and  treated  them,  lie 
says,  as  is  usually  done  in  the  kitchen  to  get  a  pint 
of  good  strong  soup  or  bouillon.  This  contained 

Proteids,         Fat,  Extractives,         Salts. 

1.19$  1.48$  1.83$  .32$ 

But  where  are  the  albumens  that  were  in  the  meat 
to  begin  with  ?  Many  of  them  are  still  there  in  that 
stringy,  sodden  mass,  the  "soup  meat,"  which  the 
cook  tells  us  contains  no  further  value.  It  consists 
of  cooked  connective  tissue  and  albumen;  now  these 


g's  Analysis  of  Soup.  25 

are  foods  and  they  must  be  rescued  from  the  garbage 
barrel,  for  with  the  help  of  the  chopping  knife  and 
the  herb  bag  we  can  make  them  still  do  proteid  duty 
in  our  bodies. 

Real  importance  If  we  do  not  overvalue  either  the 
of  Soup.  gelatine  or  the  flavoring  matters  in  our 
meat  soups,  nor  throw  away  the  meat  out  of  which 
they  are  made,  we  shall  begin  to  make  soups  on  the 
right  basis,  that  is  an  understanding  of  the  real  value 
of  the  materials  we  are  working  with,  and  we  shall  use 
meat  for  our  soups  less  often  than  we  now  do  perhaps, 
considering  its  high  price  and  our  greater  need  of  it 
cooked  in  other  ways.  Soups  should  not  be  regarded 
as  a  luxury,  neither  as  the  last  resort  of  poverty,  but 
as  a  necessary  part  of  a  dinner,  just  as  they  are  now 
used  by  all  classes  in  Europe;  but  they  need  not  be 
made  of  good  cuts  of  meat,  nor  indeed,  of  meat  at  all. 
Proteid  as  we  We  will  now  direct  our  attention  to 

t»uy  it.  t*he  proteid  as  we  buy  it. 

We  cannot  here  take  up  the  chemical  composition 
and  exact  nutritive  value  of  every  kind  of  meat  to  be 
bought  at  the  butcher's  stall,  the  fish  market  and  the 
poultry  stand.  But  we  must  note  a  few  points  of 
importance. 

We  know  that  butchers'  meat  con- 
Butchers'  meat.    .    .       „          „_  .  . 

tains  from  50$  to  78$  of  water,  accord- 
ing to  the  quality  of  the  piece  and  the  kind  of  animal. 
Most  people  in  buying  meat  think  first  of  the  -red 
part ;  they  may  know  that  it  is  advantageous  to  buy 
meat  that  is  streaked  with  fat,  but  they  hardly  realize 
how  wise  it  is  to  do  so.  As  a  rule,  fat  takes  the  place 
of  water.  Let  us  consult  tables  of  analyses  for  the 
3 


26  Analysis  of  Meats. 

amounts  of  water,  proteids  and  nitrogenous  extrac- 
tives, fats  and  salts  contained  in  lean  pieces  and  in 
pieces  streaked  with  fat.  In  Prof.  Konig's  valuable 
treatise  on  Foods  we  find  such  analyses,  carefully  col- 
lected and  sifted  out  of  a  large  amount  of  material; 
Prof .  Konig's  An-  samples  of  neck,  tenderloin,  shoul- 
aiyses  of  Meat.  (jer>  hind-quarter  and  so  on,  just  as 
bought  at  the  butchers',  were  analyzed  after  being 
freed  from  adherent  lump  fat,  and  the  average  com- 
position of  all  the  different  cuts  was  as  follows: — 

Fat  and  lean  ox  WatPr    Nitrogenous          ™  . 

compared.  Substances 

%  %  % 

From  a  very  fat  ox...  55.42         17.19         26.38 
From  a  medium  fat  ox  72.25         20.91  5.19 

From  a  lean  ox 76.71         20.78          1.50 

These  tables  illustrate  how  wise  it  is  to  buy  meat 
from  a  very  fat  animal.  They  show  that  a  pound  of 
meat  from  a  fat  ox  may  have  more  than  20$  less 
water  than  a  corresponding  piece  from  a  lean  one;  of 
course  such  a  piece  may  contain  from  3  to  4$  less 
proteid,  but  to  compensate  for  this,  it  will  have  25$ 
more  fat. 

Let  us  give  another  table  which  illustrates  that 
pieces  like  tenderloin  are  not  the  richest  in  proteids 
and  fats,  though  they  do  have  the  finest  flavor.  It 
may  help  to  console  those  whose  purses  do  not  allow 
them  to  buy  these  expensive  cuts. 


Different  Cuts  Compared.  ^ 

Dif.  part  of  ox  Wator      Nitrogenous       F  . 

compared  WatGF       Substances 

%  %  % 

Neck 73.5  19.5  5.8 

Shoulder 50.5  14.5  34. 

Tenderloin 63.4  18.8  16.7 

Hind-quarter.. 55.05  20.81  23.32 

In  this  case  the  difference  between  shoulder  and 
tenderloin  as  to  the  amount  of  water  contained  in 
each  is  striking.  In  the  case  of  medium  fat  and  lean 
animals,  poor  and  good  pieces  approach  each  other 
more  nearly  in  composition. 

We  regret  that  the  scope  of  this  essay  will  not  allow 
us  to  give  drawings  and  full  illustrations  of  the  dif- 
ferent parts  of  an  animal,  with  advice  in  detail  as  to  • 
what  to  buy.  We  are  glad  to  mention  in  this  connec- 
tion a  former  prize  essay — "Healthy  Homes  and 
Foods  for  the  Working  Classes" — which  gives  much 
information  needed  by  the  housekeeper  as  to  the 
qualities  and  comparative  value  of  the  meat  from  dif- 
ferent animals,  of  milk  and  milk  products, 
some  meats  com-  Of  butchers'  meat  beef  must  always 
pared.  be  considered  the  most  economical,  its 
choice  being  governed  by  facts  just  stated.  Fat  mut- 
ton also  ranks  high. 

Pork.  Say  what  we  may  against 
pork,  it  is  a  most  valuable  kind  of 
meat,  especially  for  the  poor  man,  and  the  laws  gov- 
erning its  slaughter  and  sale  should  be  so  stringent 
as  to  protect  him.  The  great  importance  of  salt  pork 
and  bacon  we  have  considered  under  "Fats." 

It  is  of  little  use  to  give  rules  about  buying  this 
meat ;  we  must  generally  take  what  the  butcher  fur- 


28  PisH. 

nishes,  but  at  least  we  can  cook  it  well,  never  eating 
it  raw  even  when  well  dried  and  smoked. 

Fish.  From  the  standpoint  of  the 
economist  fish  is  worthy  of  especial 
mention;  nature  does  the  feeding,  we  have  only  to 
pay  for  the  catching.  In  the  season  when  it  is  best 
and  cheapest,  fresh  fish  should  be  used  freely.  We 
have  only  to  remind  the  housewife  that  she  loses  ^  to 
%  of  the  weight  of  a  fish  in  bones  and  head. 
Salted  and  smoked  Salted  and  smoked  fish  is  of  great 
ft8*1'  importance  as  food,  and  not  alone  for 
people  living  on  the  sea-coast.  Salted  cod  contains, 
according  to  Konig's  tables,  30$  of  Proteids,  and  this 
fact,  together  with  its  low  price,  fully  justifies  its 
popularity  with  all  economical  people. 

Other  salted  and  preserved  fish,  as  for  instance,  the 
herring,  give  variety  in  the  diet  of  many  a  poor  family. 

LIVER,    HEART,    ETC. 

internal  Organs.  Of  the  internal  organs  of  animals  gen- 
erally considered  eatable,  we  really  appreciate  only  the 
liver.  The  lungs,  brains,  kidneys,  heart,  and  the 
stomach  prepared  as  tripe,  are  good  food  and  they  are 
often  sold  very  cheap  in  country  towns.  The  head  of 
most  animals,  as  of  the  calf,  is  excellent  for  soups  and 
other  dishes,  and  in  the  country  it  is  often  given  away. 

EGGS. 
Eggs  compared        TO  get  an  idea  of  the  comparative 

with  meats  as  ..  „      ,  ,    , 

a  food.          value  of  eggs  as  a  food  let  us  compare 
them  with  medium  fat  beef. 

Water        Proteids  Fat 
%                  %  % 

Medium  fat  beef  has..  72.5          21.  5.5 

Eggs  have 74.5          12.5  12. 


Eggs.  29 

We  see  that  while  the  water  is  nearly  the  same  in 
both,  the  meat  has  the  advantage  in  proteids  and  the 
eggs  the  advantage  in  fat,  this  fat,  moreover,  being 
of  very  fine  quality. 

Take  eggs  at  their  cheapest,  as  in  April  when  they 
often  sell  at  15  cents  a  dozen,  that  would  be  12|  cents 
a  pound,  10  eggs  of  average  size  weighing  a  pound. 
They  could  then  be  considered  cheaper  than  the  high- 
est priced  cuts  of  meat,  but  still  much  dearer  than 
the  cheaper  parts,  flank,  neck  and  brisket,  at  8  cents. 
So  that  even  at  this  low  price,  they  are  somewhat  of 
a  luxury  to  the  man  who  must  get  his  proteid  and  fat 
in  their  cheapest  form. 

And  when  we  consider  that  only  for  a  short  time 
in  the  year  is  the  price  so  low, —  eggs  being  on  an 
average  quoted  at  25  to  30  cents,  the  showing  for  them 
as  a  proteid  rival  of  meat  is  poor  indeed.  Except  in 
the  Spring  the  economically  inclined  must  be  sparing 
of  their  use  even  in  dessert  dishes.  When  house- 
keepers say,  as  I  have  heard  them,  that  eggs  at  25 
cents  a  dozen  are  cheaper  than  meat,  they  must  be 
speaking  in  comparison  with  very  high  priced  meats. 

CHEESE. 

cheese  ( its  food  In  America,  cheese  is  regarded  more 
value.)  ag  a  iuxurv  than  as  a  staple  article  of 
food,  and  yet  1  Ib.  of  cheese  is  equal  in  food  value  to 
more  than  2  Ibs.  of  meat,  it  being  very  rich  in  both 
fat  and  proteids.  Considering  this,  its  price  is  very 
low  and  it  ought  to  be  a  treasure  to  the  poor  man 
and  do  good  service  in  replacing  sometimes  the  more 
expensive  meat. 


30  Food  Value  of  Cheese. 

Use  of  cheese  Its   food   value    is   fully   recognized 

abroad.  abroad.  For  the  Swiss  peasant  it  is  a 
staple  second  only  to  bread,  while  the  use  of  it  in 
Italy  and  in  Germany  is  extensive.  The  writer  once 
spent  several  weeks  in  the  house  of  a  large  farmer  on 
the  slope  of  Mt.  Pilatus  in  Switzerland,  and  observed 
daily  the  food  given  to  the  harvesters;  the  luncheon 
sent  twice  a  day  to  the  fields  consisted  of  a  quarter 
section  of  the  grayish  skim  cheese,  accompanied  with 
bread.  I  was  told  that  the  poor  people  in  the  region 
ate  scarcely  any  meat,  using  cheese  in  its  stead. 

The  writer  has  also  observed  the  use  of  cheese  in 
Germany.  Every  locality  has  its  special  variety  of 
the  soft  kind  made  of  sour  milk,  and  great  amounts 
of  the  Swiss,  both  skim  and  full  milk,  cheese  are  con- 
sumed. It  is  generally  eaten  uncooked,  but  also  as  an 
addition  to  cooked  food  in  a  great  variety  of  dishes. 
Digestibility  of  There  is  no  doubt  of  the  food  value  of 
cheese.  cheese,  but  there  does  seem  to  be  some 
question  as  to  its  digestibility.  When  we  come  to 
inquire  into  this  point,  we  find  that  thorough  experi- 
ments have  been  made  by  German  scientists;  Dr. 
Bubner,  a  pupil  of  Voit,  gives  the  result  of  experi- 
ments on  himself.  He  found  that  he  could  not  con- 
sume much  of  it  alone,  but  with  milk  he  took  easily 
200  grams,  or  nearly  \  Ib. ,  and  only  when  he  took  as 
high  as  517  grams  or  over  a  pound  daily,  was  it  less 
completely  digested  than  meat.  Prof.  Konig  says, 
that  in  the  amounts  in  which  it  is  generally  eaten, 
125  to  250  grams  daily  (i  to  \  Ib.),  it  is  as  well  digest- 
ed as  meat  or  eggs.  The  extensive  use  of  it  abroad 
would  seem  to  be  some  guarantee  for  the  digestibility 
of  the  foreign  varieties  at  least, 


Digestibility  of  Cheese.  31 

American  cheeses  have  in  general  a  sharper  flavor 
than  the  foreign,  still  it  is  probable  that  well  mixed 
with  other  food,  enough  could  be  taken  many  a  time, 
to  give  a  man  his  needed  daily  quantity  of  animal 
proteid, — between  six  and  seven  ounces, — and  this  is 
a  matter  of  great  importance  from  an  economical  point 
of  view. 


METHODS  OF  COOKING  MEAT. 


Why  cook.  And  first  — why  do  we  cook  it  at  all? 
In  the  animal  as  well  as  in  the  vegetable  world  some 
foods  are  all  ready  for  our  digestion,  as  milk.  Raw 
eggs  too,  are  perfectly  digestible  and  are  often  given 
to  invalids.  We  hear,  of  "Raw  meat  cures,"  and 
it  has  been  found  that  tender  and  juicy  raw  meat,  if 
chopped  fine  to  break  the  connective  tissue,  is  well 
digested. 

But  raw  meat  does  not  taste  good  to  most  of  us, 
while  the  delicious  flavor  and  odor  of  a  broiled  steak 
make  it  very  acceptable  to  the  palate,  and  we  must 
believe  to  the  stomach  also.  We  "bring  out  the 
flavor,"  as  we  say,  by  cooking;  what  else  do  we  do? 
Let  us  examine  for  a  moment  a  piece  of  meat  with 
structure  of  reference  to  the  effect  heat  has  upon  it. 

meat.  The  red  part  is  made  up  of,  first,  very 

tiny  sausage-like  bags,  or  muscle  fibres  as  they  are 
called,  and  in  these  is  contained  the  precious  proteid 
matter,  flavors  and  salts  all  mixed  together  with 
water  into  a  sort  of  jelly;  second,  these  muscle  fibres 
are  bound  together  by  strands  of  connective  tissue, 
as  that  white  stringy  mass  is  called,  in  which  the  fat 
and  blood  vessels  are  lodged;  this  is  also  of  food 
value,  but  inferior  to  the  fibres.  Third,  dissolved 
in  the  juices  floating  between  the  fibres  and  strands, 

32 


Examination  of  Meat  Fibre.  33 

there  is  also  a  proteid  called  soluble  albumen.  The 
little  bags  of  proteid,  when  we  can  get  at  them,  are 
as  digestible  in  our  stomachs  as  is  the  white  of  egg, 
though,  like  the  egg  again,  their  flavor  is  improved  by 
slight  cooking.  But,  as  we  have  seen,  they  are 
imprisoned  in  the  connective  tissue,  somewhat,  we 
may  say,  as  are  the  starch  grains  of  the  potato  in  the 
cellulose. 
Softening  connec-  This  connective  tissue  we  can  soft- 

tive  tissue,  en  by  heat,  thereby  turning  it  into 
a  sort  of  gelatine,  but  unfortunately,  unless  the  meat 
is  very  tender,  this  requires  a  longer  application  of 
heat  than  is  needed  to  cook  the  delicate  albumen  all 
full  of  flavors  too  easily  lost.  To  soften  the  connect- 
ive tissue  without  overcooking  the  albumen,  is  one 
of  the  problems  of  meat  cookery. 

The  next  question  is,  how  do  our  methods  of  cook- 
ing meet  these  requirements? 

COOKING    MEAT   IN   WATER. 

1st.  Method.  pufc  a  piece  of  lean  meat  into  cold 
water,  heat  it  very  slowly  and  watch  the  effect.  The 
water  becomes  slightly  red,  then  cloudy,  and  as  the 
heat  increases,  yellowish  in  color,  and  finally  it  clears, 
sending  a  scum  to  the  surface.  If  we  examine  this 
scum,  we  find  that  the  water  has  soaked  out  much 
soluble  albumen  and  a  large  proportion  of  the  salts 
of  the  meat  as  well  as  other  substantives  called  extrac- 
tives; and  now  the  odor  of  the  boiling  meat  begins  to 
fill  the  kitchen.  The  longer  and  slower  the  warming 
process,  the  more  of  all  these  things  we  shall  extract, 
and  the  meat  when  taken  out  will  be  in  just  that 
proportion  poor. 


34  First  Method  of  Cooking  Meat. 

Soup  making.  This  is  the  process  known  as  soup 
making, — very  simple,  if  we  care  noth- 
ing for  the  piece  of  meat  but  to  soak  out  of  it  all  the 
food  and  flavors  possible.  After  some  hours  of  cook- 
ing we  find  it  shrunken,  gray  and  tasteless.  A  dog 
if  fed  on  that  alone  could  not  live  many  days.  How- 
ever, as  we  have  before  said,  we  are  not  to  conclude, 
that  it  contains  no  more  nutriment,  but  the  stomach 
rejects  it  now  that  it  is  separated  from  all  the  flavoring 
matters. 

2nd  Method.  Now    put    a    piece    of    meat    into 

boiling  water  and  continue  the  boiling.  The  sur- 
face of  the  meat  suddenly  whitens  and  a  little 
scum  rises  on  the  water,  though  very  little  compared 
with  what  we  saw  in  the  former  method.  We  have 
coagulated  the  albumen  contained  in  all  the  little 
cells  in  the  surface  of  the  meat,  and  the  soluble  albu- 
men, flavoring  matters  and  salts  cannot  get  out;  the 
sealing  up  is  not  quite  perfect,  enough  escaping  into 
the  water  to  make  it  a  weak  soup,  but  it  is  a  good  meth- 
od of  cooking  a  large  piece  if  properly  completed  from 
this  point.  But  if  we  go  on  boiling  our  meat,  that  is, 
keeping  the  temperature  at  212°,  we  shall  overcook 
the  albumen  in  the  outer  layers  before  that  in  the 
center  is  coagulated.  By  overcooking,  we  mean 
making  it  horny  and  flavorless,  as  we  do  the  white  of 
an  egg  if  we  cook  it  in  the  old-fashioned  way,  by 
dropping  into  boiling  water  and  keeping  it  at  that 
heat.  Having  seared  the  outside  of  the  meat  to  keep 
the  juices  in,  we  must  lower  the  temperature.  The 
albumen  coagulates  at  between  160°  and  170°,  but 
the  water  in  the  kettle  may  be  a  little  above  this?  as 


Second  Method  of  Cooking  Meat.  35 

it  must  constantly  transfer  heat  to  the  interior 
of  the  meat.  The  general  rule  is  that  it  should 
"bubble"  or  "simmer"  only,  and  if  the  cook  can  do 
no  better  she  must  follow  these  indications.  That 
the  true  temperature  for  cooking  meat  is  below  the 
boiling  point,  many  an  intelligent  housekeeper  knows, 
but  how  is  she  to  know  when  the  water  is  at  170°? 
Here  we  come  upon  the  weakest  point  in  household 
cookery ;  various  degrees  of  heat  have  different  effects 
on  the  foods  we  cook,  but  of  only  one  temperature  is 
the  housekeeper  certain  —  that  of  boiling  water. 

For  the  use  of  the  thermometer  and  the  heat  saver 
see  pages  43  and  44. 

But  to  return ;  is  there  no  way  of  cooking  that  will 
keep  in  the  meat  all  these  flavors  and  salts  and  albu- 
mens, just  as  nature  mixed  them  ?  Yes,  there  are 
three  ways, —  frying  in  fat,  baking  in  an  oven,  and 
broiling  over  coals. 

We  will  examine  the  first.  If  we 
plunge  a  thin  piece  of  meat,  as  a  cut- 
let coated  with  egg  and  breadcrumbs,  into  boiling 
fat,  the  albumen  in  the  surface  or  rather  in  that  of 
the  egg  surrounding  it  is  coagulated  as  in  boiling, 
but  this  time  the  outer  rind  preserves  the  juices  still 
better  because  the  fat  will  not  mix  with  them  as  will 
water.  Everyone  knows  how  an  oyster  cooked  in 
this  way  retains  its  juices. 

When  we  bake  a  piece  of  meat  in  the 

3at*       oven,   we  start  in  the  same  way;   we 

sear  the  outside  in  fat,  turning  the  roast  about  in  a 

small  quantity  of  fat  made  hot  in  a  kettle;  we  then 

transfer  it,  still  in  the  kettle  or  pan,  to  a  hot  oven 


36  Baking  Meat. 

where  the  process  of  cooking  is  completed,  but  at 
short  intervals  we  moisten  the  surface  with  the  fat  in 
the  pan.  If  we  did  not  baste  the  roast,  we  would 
find  a  thick  layer  of  grey,  tasteless  meat  inside  the 
outer  brown  crust,  and  indeed  the  whole  piece  would 
dry  long  before  the  center  of  our  roast  had  reached 
the  coagulating  point;  we  baste,  in  order  to  keep 
in  the  juices  which,  as  we  know,  will  not  mix  with 
the  fat,  and  also  that  only  a  mild  degree  of  heat,  not 
exceeding  the  coagulating  point  of  proteids,  may  be 
transmitted  to  the  interior.  In  the  intervals  of  our 
basting,  some  water  is  driven  out  of  the  meat  and 
evaporated  into  steam,  and  the  high  heat  of  the  oven 
expends  itself  in  evaporating  this,  in  heating  the 
basting  fat,  and  perhaps  ( if  it  reach  so  high  a  tem- 
perature )  in  decomposing  part  of  it,  and  in  changing 
the  chemical  character  of  small  quantities  of  extrac- 
tives, thus  making  the  meat  "tasty,"  and  so  it  hap- 
pens that  only  a  mild  degree  of  heat  is  passed  into 
the  center  of  the  piece.  We  would  hardly  believe 
that  the  inside  of  a  roast,  with  its  light  pink  color, 
registers  only  160°  by  the  thermometer,  yet  this  can 
be  proved  by  anyone  with  a  long  chemist's  thermom- 
eter. 

Although  some  of  the  water  of  our  meat  has  evap- 
orated, the  extractives  and  salts  are  retained  to  a 
larger  extent  than  in  boiling,  as  we  shall  see  by  the 
table  given  later. 

In  broiling,  the  principle  applied  is 

exactly   the    same   as   in   baking,    the 

cooking  being  done   by  the  medium  of   heated  air. 

The  dry  heat  of  the  coals  affects  the  outer  layer  of 


Broiling  Meat.  3? 

the  meat,  as  does  the  hot  air  of  the  oven.  In  both 
these  methods,  just  as  in  boiling,  we  try  to  hold 
the  temperature  of  our  cooking  medium  just  high 
enough  to  keep  the  heat  traveling  toward  the  in- 
terior of  the  meat. 

We  have  now  learned  to  cook  the  albumen  enough 
and  not  too  much  and  to  keep  the  flavors  of  our  meat; 
what  about  the  connective  tissue,  and  how  has  that 
fared  with  our  different  modes  of  cooking? 

If  our  meat  is  cut  from  the  tenderer 

Tender  meat.  „  ,     .  ,,        .    ,  ,  ,, 

parts  of  an  animal  of  the  right  age,  well 
fed  and  fattened,  and  if  it  has  been  kept  long  enough 
after  killing,  the  connective  tissue  will  soften  into 
eatable  condition  in  the  length  of  time  required  to 
cook  the  albumen  by  the  methods  described.  Such 
meat,  so  cooked,  will  always  be  tender  and  full  of 
flavor. 

But  if    the   meat  is  cut  from  the 

Toug-h  meat.  ,  . 

tougher  parts,  or  from  an  old  or  ill- 
fattened  animal,  or  cooked  too  soon  after  killing,  the 
connective  tissue  will  not  soften  in  that  time ;  we 
must  continue  the  application  of  heat  till  this  tissue 
softens. 

Methods     com-       Therefore,  what  method  of  cooking 
pared:  1st,  as          ^aH  use,  depends  on  the  quality  of 

to   quality   of  J 

meat.  the   meat   we    have.     Trimmings  and 

tough  portions  we  will  make  into  soup,  expecting  to 
chop  the  tasteless  meat  next  day  and  add  other  flavors 
to  make  it  palatable.  Somewhat  better  pieces,  but 
still  requiring  long  cooking  to  soften  the  connective 
tissue,  may  be  made  into  a  stew  or  ragout ;  or  if  the 
piece  is  large  and  compact,  boiled  in  water;  but  meat 


38  Methods  Compared. 

that  is  tender  and  juicy  (and  for  improving  tough 
meat  see  page  45 )  should  be  boiled,  baked  or  broiled, 
choosing  oftenest  the  last  two  methods,  because  of 
the  more  perfect  retentidto  of  the  juices  and  the  fine 
flavor  given  to  the  outer  layer. 

We  are  told  that  baking  or  broiling 

2d,  as  to  economy.  ,    ,,    ,  „          ,  . 

is  a  very  wasteful  way  of  cooking  meat ; 
that  if  we  would  be  truly  economical  we  would  always 
boil  or  stew,  using  our  meat  or  its  juices  to  flavor 
vegetables.  From  this  we  must  dissent  for  it  would 
condemn  us  to  such  a  monotony  as  would  be  unen- 
durable even  to  the  poor.  Better  sometimes  a 
smaller  piece  of  broiled  or  baked  meat  with  its  deli- 
cious and  stimulating  flavor,  and  make  our  soup  of 
vegetables  and  season  it  with  herbs.  Besides,  accord- 
ing to  the  scientists,  baking  and  broiling  are  not 
wasteful  methods.  I  quote  from  a  table  of  Prof. 
Konig's,  wherein  are  given  the  results  of  analysis  of 
beef  raw,  after  boiling  and  after  "braten."  Eaw,  it 
contained  .86$  extractives  (nitrogenous  bodies  most- 
ly; very  important  as  giving  the  stimulating  smell 

and  taste)  and  1.23$  salts. 

Extractives      Salts 

Raw 86$         1.23$ 

After  boiling 40$         1.15$ 

After  "bratm"...: 72$        1.45$ 

The  advantage  is  seen  to  be  in  favor  of  "  braten  " 
both  in  regard  to  extractives  and  salts.  The  loss  of 
water  was  nearly  the  same  in  both  cases.  As  for  the 
fat  lost  in  broiling  a  beef  steak,  that  is  indeed  a  loss, 
but  one  to  be  made  up  in  some  measure  by  the  smaller 
quantity  of  fuel  necessary  to  cook  the  meat.  The 


Soup  Making.  £9 

loss  of  this  fat  need  not  be  made  so  much  of,  until  we 
have  learned  to  do  better  in  many  other  still  more 
important  directions. 

The  philosophy  of  cooking  meat  according  to  the 
different  methods  has  been  treated,  and  we  will  now 
give  a  few  additional  directions  as  to  carrying  out 
these  methods. 

SOUP   MAKING. 

Materials  for  soup     Lean  meat   of   any  sort,  beef  best; 

making.  fresh,   better  than   that   long    kept; 

bones  of  next  value,  especially  the  spongy  rib  bones 
and  vertebrae.  Saw  and  chop  the  bones  into  little 
pieces, — cut  the  meat  small.  Soft  water  is  better 
than  hard. 

Method  of  Keep  a  kettle,  if  possible,  for  this 

making.  purpose  alone,  and  add  to  it  all  bits  of 

meat  and  bones  as  they  accumulate.  Put  the  meat 
into  cold  water,  let  it  stand  some  hours  if  possible, 
heat  very  gradually  and  keep  simmering.  Two  hours 
or  less  brings  out  all  the  flavors  of  the  meat,  but  a 
much  longer  time  is  necessary  to  get  all  the  nutri- 
ment from  the  bones. 

Do  not  remove  the  scum;  it  contains 
the  albumen  of  the  soup,  and  nothing 
objectionable  if  the  meat  was  well  cleaned. 

An  hour  before  the  soup  is  served  add  flavors; 
onions  and  carrots  are  the  best,  celery,  summer  sa- 
vory, and  parsley  next.  Use  others,  as  cloves,  nut- 
meg, bay  leaf,  etc.,  only  occasionally.  Add  salt  and 
pepper  just  before  serving. 

When  done,  strain  and  skim  off  all  fat  (better  if 


40  Boiling  Meat. 

left  to  stand  till  next  day,  the  fat  removed  and  the 
soup  simply  rewarmed),  and  make  such  additions  as 
you  wish. 

[We  prefer  our  soups  with  the  fat  removed,  but 
the  laboring  people  of  Europe  with  their  hardy  stom- 
achs find  a  soup  much  better  if  covered  with  "eyes."] 

These  rules  apply  to  all  meat  soups.  Mutton 
makes  a  strong  and  nutritious  soup,  veal  a  delicate 
soup.  An  excellent  soup  is  made  from  a  calf's  head. 

BOILING. 

Put  the  meat  into  boiling  water,  bring 
quickly  again  to  a  boil  and  keep  so  for 
10  minutes,  then  lower  the  temperature  (as  see  page 
35),  and  so  keep  it  till  the  meat  in  the  center  has 
reached  160°-170°,  or  has  changed  in  color  from 
bluish  to  red,  our  usual  test.  For  use  of  the  "  Cook- 
ing Safe"  for  this  purpose,  see  page  44.  Braising, 
"a  la  mode",  kettle  roasts,  &c.,  are  but  modifications 
of  this  method. 

TO  make  meat         This  is  a  combination  of  soup  mak- 
stews.  ing  and   boiling.     Use   inferior  parts, 

cut  in  pieces  and  cook,  at  170°  if  possible,  till  tender. 
Half  an  hour  before  serving,  season  in  any  way  you 
wish.  See  page  47. 

FRYING    IN    FAT. 

HOW  to  prepare        Lard  if  used  for  this  purpose  should 

Suet  in  which  to,       .    .    ,  ,,  i      i  i       •»<>-• 

fry  meat.  be  tried  out  at  home,  but  beef  fat  is 

cheaper  and  if  nicely  prepared  no  one  can  object  to 
the  taste. 


Frying  in  Fat.  41 

Cut  the  fresh  suet  in  pieces,  and  cover  with  cold 
water;  let  it  stand  a  day,  changing  the  water  once  in 
the  time.  This  takes  out  the  peculiar  tallowy  taste. 
Now  put  it  in  an  iron  kettle,  with  a  half  teacup  of 
milk  to  each  pound  of  suet,  and  let  it  cook  very 
slowly  till  the  fat  is  clear,  and  light  brown  in  color, 
and  till  the  sound  of  the  cooking  has  ceased.  The 
pieces  may  be  loosened  from  the  bottom  with  a  spoon, 
but  it  is  not  to  be  stirred;  if  it  burns  the  taste  is 
ruined.  Now  let  it  stand  and  partly  cool,  then  pour 
off  into  cups  to  become  cold;  it  smells  as  sweet  as 
butter  and  can  in  many  cases  be  used  instead  of  it. 
The  fat  left  still  in  the  pieces  may  be  pressed  out  for 
less  particular  uses. 

Any  clean  fat,  even  mutton,  has  its  uses  in  cookery, 
and  should  be  tried  out  and  kept  nicely, 
oils  for  use  in        There  are  oils  now  sold  which  but 
frying.  for    prejudice   we   would    always    use. 

Pure  cotton  seed  oil  is  a  fine  oil  with  a  delicate  flavor; 
rape  seed  oil,  which  is  used  extensively  abroad  for 
this  purpose,  is  also  a  pure  vegetable  oil,  but  some- 
what rank  in  flavor.  It  is  treated  thus:  a  raw  pota- 
to is  cut  up  and  put  into  the  kettle,  heating  with  the 
oil  and  cooking  till  it  is  brown,  it  is  then  taken  out 
and  the  oil  used  like  lard.  The  potato  has  absorbed 
the  rank  flavor. 

Thin  pieces  of  meat,  like  cutlets  and  chops,  are 
coated  with  beaten  egg  and  bread  crumbs  and  cooked 
in  boiling  fat  for  5-10  minutes,  according  to  the  kind 
of  meat. 

Make  some  beef  fat  hot  in  an  iron  pan 

To  bake  meat.  ,  ,  ,         ,  _.          ,  .  . 

or  broad  kettle.     Put  the  meat  into  it, 


42  Baking  Meat. 

and  with  a  fork  stuck  into  the  fat  part,  turn  it  rapidly 
till  it  is  on  all  sides  a  fine  brown,  then  put  it  into  a  hot 
oven  (about  340°  F.),  elevating  it  above  the  pan  on  a 
meat  rack,  or  a  few  iron  rods.  Now  comes  the  pro- 
cess called  basting;  in  five  minutes  or  less 
you  will  find  that  the  top  of  the  meat 
has  dried,  and  you  must  now  dip,  with  a  spoon,  the 
hot  fat  from  the  pan  over  the  top.  Do  this  every  few 
minutes  adding  no  water  to  the  pan;  you  will  find 
your  meat  well  cooked  in  from  12-15  minutes  to  the 
pound.  It  is  done  when  it  has  lost,  in  the  middle, 
the  blue  color,  and  become  a  fine  red.  Only  salt  and 
pepper  should  be  used  to  season  such  a  roast,  and 
must  be  added  when  the  meat  is  half  done;  if  earlier, 
it  toughens  the  fibres. 

But  when  fuel   is   expensive,  or  in 

To  broil  meat.  ,  ,      .    ~ 

summer  when  a  hot  fire  is  a  nuisance, 
the  perfectly  cooked  meat  can  also  be  obtained  by 
broiling;  the  management  of  the  fire  is  the  only 
trouble.  We  are  told  that  a  beefsteak  for  broiling 
should  be  cut  f  of  an  inch  thick,  and  put  over  a  hot 
fire  of  coal  or  charcoal;  quite  right,  but  when  it  has 
browned  quickly,  as  it  should,  and  been  turned  and 
browned  on  the  other  side,  it  yet  remains  raw  in  the 
middle  and  if  left  longer,  the  surface  burns.  This  is 
the  experience  of  the  novice,  who  has  yet  to  learn 
two  things;  first,  that  immediately  after  the  first 
browning,  the  fire  must  decrease  in  heat,  or  the  meat 
be  brought  further  away,  so  that  the  steak  may  cook 
10-12  minutes  without  burning — less  time  will  not 
cook  it  nicely  in  the  middle;  and  second,  that  like 
baked  meat,  the  surface  must  be  kept  moist  with  hot 


Broiling  Meat.  43 

fat.  Before  your  steak  is  put  over  (unless  it  be 
very  well  streaked  with  fat),  cover  both  sides  with 
melted  suet,  and  afterwards,  as  it  dries,  spread  on 
a  little  butter  or  beef  fat.  Have  ready  in  a  hot 
platter  a  few  spoonsful  of  water  in  which  the  bones 
cut  from  the  steak  have  been  boiling,  also  salt  and 
pepper.  When  the  steak  is  done,  lay  it  in  the  platter 
and  keep  it  hot  for  five  minutes,  turning  it  once  in 
the  time;  thus  you  will  have  both  good  steak  and 
good  gravy. 

Professional  cooks  always  use  charcoal 

Use  of  charcoal.   „         ,       .,.  -.     ., 

for  broiling,  and  its  advantages  are 
great.  As  described  on  page  21  it  needs  only  a  sim- 
ple contrivance,  easily  adjusted  to  any  stove;  a  hand- 
ful will  broil  a  pound  of  steak,  and  the  cooking  of 
the  rest  of  the  dinner  can  go  on  without  interference. 

USE   OF   THE    THERMOMETER    IN    COOKING    MEAT. 

To  cook  meat  at  a  temperature  of  between  150° 
and  160°  F.,  is  no  easy  matter  with  the  usual  kitchen 
appliances.  Even  over  an  easily  regulated  heater,  as 
a  gas  or  coal  oil  flame,  how  are  we  to  know  that  tem- 
perature when  it  is  reached  ?  The  writer,  knowing 
of  no  thermometer  arranged  for  use  in  a  kitchen,  con- 
structed a  simple  one  after  the  model  of  those  used  in 
laboratories.  A  thermometer  tube  registering  300° 
Celsius  was  simply  fastened  into  a  cork,  the  bulb 
projecting  below  and  protected  by  a  short  cylinder  of 
wood.  This  floated  on  the  water  and  made  it  easy 
to  cook  at  any  given  temperature.  This  thermome- 
ter was  also  hung  in  a  light  wire  frame  and  used  for 
testing  the  heat  of  an  oven. 


44  The  Heat  Saver. 

THE   HEAT    SAVER. 

It  is  a  part  of  common  information  that  the  in- 
habitants of  northern  countries  make  extensive  use 
of  non-conducting  substances,  like  wool,  for  prevent- 
ing the  escape  of  heat  from  a  vessel  in  which  cooking 
is  going  on.  It  is  strange  that  we  do  not  make  more 
use  of  such  appliances,  for  they  have  often  been  de- 
scribed and  illustrated;  it  is  probably  because  they 
are  not  found  ready-made,  and  with  a  complete  list 
of  directions  for  use.  The  writer  made  and  used  a 
cooker  of  this  sort,  and  after  considerable  modifica- 
tion and  experiment  it  became  a  very  useful  thing 
in  the  kitchen.  If  you  wish  to  cook  meat  at  the 
proper  temperature,  this  contrivance  makes  it  possi- 
ble to  do  so,  and  is  also  very  saving  of  fuel. 
Directions  for  Take  a  packing  box  measuring,  say, 

making  Heat 

Saver.  2  feet  each  way  and  cover  the  bottom 

with  a  layer  of  packed  wool  4  to  6  inches  thick ;  set 
into  the  middle  of  this  another  box  or  a  cylinder  of 
sheet  iron  and  fill  the  space  between  the  two  with 
a  layer  of  wool,  4  to  6  inches  thick  and  closely 
packed.  Into  the  inner  compartment  put  your  ket- 
tle of  meat  or  vegetables  already  brought  to  the  boil- 
ing point  and  having  a  tightly  fitting  cover,  and  over 
this  press  a  thick  pillow  or  woolen  blanket.  Then 
fasten  down  tight  over  all,  the  lid  of  your  box.  As 
the  heat  in  the  water  must  finish  the  cooking  already 
begun,  its  amount  must  be  rightly  proportioned  to 
the  amount  of  food  to  be  cooked,  e.  g.,  two  quarts  of 
water  to  1-j-  Ibs.  beef  rib,  were  used.  The  water  was 
brought  to  the  boiling  point,  the  meat  placed  in  it 
and  allowed  to  boil  for  five  minutes,  the  pot  was 


Treatment  of  Tough  Meat.  45 

then  tightly  covered,  placed  in  the  box  and  allowed 
to  remain  three  hours.  At  the  end  of  that  time  the 
meat  was  tender. 

TO    MAKE   MEAT  TENDER. 

TO  make  meat  it  is  well  known  that  meat  must  be 
kept  some  time  after  killing  to  make  it 
tender.  In  winter,  a  large  piece  of  beef  or.  mutton 
will  keep  for  six  weeks  if  hung  in  a  dry,  cool  place. 
Indeed,  this  is  the  time  allowed  in  England  for  the 
Christmas  "shoulder  of  mutton,"  and  every  few  days 
it  is  rubbed  over  with  salt  and  vinegar.  In  summer, 
unless  the  butcher  will  keep  the  meat  for  you,  you 
must  resort  to  other  means. 

A  tough  piece  of  meat  may  be  laid  in  not  too  strong 
vinegar  for  3  or  4  days  in  summer  and  twice  as  long  in 
winter,  adding  to  the  vinegar  such  spices  as  you  may 
like.  To  soften  a  tough  steak  pour  a  few  spoonfuls 
of  vinegar  on  and  let  stand  for  twelve  or  twenty-four 
hours.  This  method  has  been  long  recommended  and 
is  to  some  extent  used  among  us;  the  foreign  cook  em- 
ploys sour  milk  for  the  same  purpose  and  with  even 
greater  success,  but  this  must  be  changed  every  day  and 
at  the  end  of  the  time  well  washed  from  the  meat. 

"We  cannot  too  strongly  urge  that  the  housekeeper, 
especially  if  she  be  straightened  in  means,  should  be- 
come used  to  these  methods  and  practice  them  occa- 
sionally. She  does  not  want  to  confine  herself  to  soups 
and  stews  and  she  cannot  buy  "porter-house"  steak 
at  20  or  25  cents  a  pound,  but  she  can  buy  "round" 
at  half  that  price,  and  after  a  little  experiment  can 
make  it  tender  for  boiling,  roasting  or  broiling  by  one 
of  these  methods.  In  winter,  she  should  buy  a  supply 
of  meat  ahead  and  keep  it  until  it  grows  tender. 


EEOIPES  FOE  COOKING  MEATS. 


The  methods  of  cooking  meat  having  been  treated 
and  mention  made  of  the  parts  adapted  to  each, 
it  remains  only  to  give  practical  hints  as  to  making 
and  varying  dishes. 

BEEF. 

Boiled,  roast  and  broiled  beef  have  been  sufficient- 
ly dwelt  upon.  See  pages  40-43. 

stews  and  Ra-         No   mode   of   cooking  meat   has   so 
gouts.  many  variations;     the    flavor   of    the 

meat  being  used  to  season  vegetables  of  every  sort, 
also  doughs,  as  in  dumplings,  or  in  the  crust  of  meat 
pie.  For  making  meat  stews  see  page  40. 

One-half    hour   before   the   meat   is 
With  potatoes.       ,  ,  „  . .  ,    , 

done  lay  on  top  01  it  peeled  potatoes, 

all  of  the  same  size,  and  serve  when  done  with  the 
meat  and  gravy. 

When  the  meat  is   cooked   tender, 
thicken  the  gravy  and  pour  all  into  a 
pie  or  pudding  dish.     Cover  with  a  common  pie  crust 
or  one  of  mashed  potatoes,  and  bake  -J  hour. 

You  may  also  mix  sliced  raw  potatoes  with  thestew, 
in  layers. 

Potato  Crust.  I  cup  mashed  potatoes,  1  egg,  2 
tablespoons  butter,  1  cup  of  milk,  salt.  Beat  to- 

46 


gether  till  smooth,  and  then  work  in  enough  fiour*so 
that  you  can  roll  it  out.  It  should  be  -J  in.  thick, 
and  as  soft  as  you  can  handle. 

Add  to  meat  when  tender,  1  qt.  to- 

With  tomatoes.  ~   ,,  rru  •   i  -^ 

matoes  to  2  Ibs.  meat.  Thicken  with 
flour  and  stew  5  minutes. 

Stews  are  variously  flavored;  onion, 

Flavors  for  stews.     , ,          n  ,  .        \L. 

salt  and  pepper,  are  always  in  place. 
A  little  lemon  juice  added  as  it  is  served  gives  a  deli- 
cious flavor,  or  even  a  tablespoon  of  vinegar  may  be 
used.  Any  herbs,  a  piece  of  carrot,  a  clove  or  bit  of 
garlic,  may  be  used  for  variety.  Catsup  is  also  good 
as  a  flavor. 

Corned  Beef.  Wash  it  well,  put  into  plenty  of  cold 
water  and  bring  slowly  to  the  simmering  point. 
Cook  3  to  4  hours. 

Turnips  or  cabbage  are  often  eaten  with  corn 
beef.  They  should  not  be  boiled  with  the  meat  but 
in.  a  separate  pot. 

If  from  a  good  animal,  beef  liver  is 

often  as  tender  as  calf's  liver. 

This  is  the  best   method.     Soak  an 

hour  in  cold  water,  wipe  dry,  slice  and 
dip  in  melted  beef  fat.  Broil  slowly  (see  page  42)  till 
thoroughly  done;  then  salt  and  butter. 

When  prepared'  as  above,  the  slices  of 

liver  may  be  fried  in  a  pan  with  a  little 
beef  fat.  This  gives  an  opportunity  for  more  flavors, 
as  onion  may  be  fried  with  it,  a  little  vinegar  added  to 
the  juices  that  fry  out,  then  thickened  and  used  as 
gravy. 

If  liver  is  not  quite  tender  it  can  be 

made  into  a  stew,  or  it  may  be  chopped 


48  Recooking  Beef. 

fine,  mixed  with  bread  crumbs  and  egg  and  baked  -J 
hour. 

If  fire  is  no  object,  you  may  boil  a 

Beef's  Heart.        ,       „,     ,  ..       ."     .    ,        ,,    ,  ^    . 

beefs  heart,  it  will  take  all  day.  Put 
into  cold  water  and  bring  slowly  to  the  simmering 
point  and  keep  it  there.  Next  day  it  may  be  stuffed 
with  well  seasoned  bread  crumbs  and  baked  f  hour. 

Cut  in  strips,  soak  in  salt  and  vine- 
gar -J  day,  wipe  dry  and  fry  in  hot  lard. 
It  may  also  be  stewed. 

KECOOKING   BEEF. 

(A.)  Boiled,  baked  or  broiled  beef  which  is  ten- 
der and  full  of  flavor. 

To  serve  roast  beef  a  second  time. 
Roast  beef  re-        Heat  the  gravy,  put  the  roast  in  it. 
served.  After  trimming   it   into   shape  again, 

cover  closely  and  put  into  a  hot  oven  for  ten  minutes 
or  less  according  to  size  of  piece. 

Or,  cut  in  slices  and  lay  in  hot  gravy  only  long 
enough  to  heat  them  through. 

Being  full  of  flavor  such  meat  may 
be  chopped  and  mixed  with  from  ^  to  ^ 
as  much  chopped  or  mashed  potatoes,  bread  crumbs 
or  boiled  rice.  These  mixtures  may  be  warmed  as 
hash,  or  made  into  cakes  or  balls  to  be  fried  on  a  grid- 
dle or  in  boiling  fat. 

Mix  the  chopped  meat  with  the  potatoes,  bread- 
crumbs or  rice  as  above,  add  salt  and  pepper  and 
make  quite  moist  with  water  or  soup.  Put  a  good 
piece  of  butter  or  of  beef  fat  into  a  spider,  and  when 
it  is  hot,  put  in  the  hash.  Cover  and  let  it  steam, 


Recooking  Soup  Meat.  49 

then  remove  cover  and  let  it  dry  out  while  a  brown 
crust  forms  on  the  bottom.  Or,  stir  till  hot  and 
dish  immediately. 

Make  not  quite  as  moist  as  for  hash, 

form  into  little  cakes,  dust  with  flour, 

and  fry  to  a  nice  brown  in  a  little  beef  dripping  on  a 

griddle.      Or,  egg  and  bread  crumb  the  balls,  and  fry 

in  boiling  fat. 

(B.)      EECOOKING   SOUP  MEAT. 

This  meat,  though  made  tender  by  long  cooking, 
has  given  much  of  its  flavor  to  the  soup.  It  has 
not,  to  the  same  degree,  however,  lost  its  nutritive 
value;  if  we  can  make  it  taste  good  again,  both  palate 
and  stomach  will  approve  it. 

It  will  not  do  to  mix  this  meat  with  neutral  sub- 
stances like  potatoes  and  bread;  it  needs  addition 
rather  than  subtraction. 

In  any  case,  first  chop  the  meat  very  fine. 
Pressed  soup          Season  the  chopped  beef  well  with 
meat.  sait  and  pepper,  and  some  other  addi- 

tion, as  celery  salt  or  nutmeg,  or  some  of  the  sweet 
herbs.  Moisten  with  soup  or  stock,  pack  in  a  square, 
deep  tin  and  place  in  the  oven  for  a  short  time.  To 
be  sliced  cold,  or  warmed  as  a  meat  hash  to  be  served 
on  toast. 

Meat  Croquettes.       When  SO  S0od  a  dish  aS  this  Can  b° 

made  out  of  soup  meat,  it  is  worth  a 
little  trouble. 

Ingredients.     2  cups  of  the  chopped  beef,  1  table- 
spoon butter,  1  tablespoon  flour,  1  egg,  £  a  lemon  or 
1  tablespoon  vinegar,  a  few  gratings  of  nutmeg  and 
-J-  cup  of  stock  or  milk. 
5 


50  Veal 

Cook  the  flour  in  the  butter  and  add  the  stock  or 
milk  and  seasoning,  then  the  beef,  and  cook,  stirring 
all  the  time  till  the  mass  cleaves  from  the  side  of  the 
kettle.  Let  it  get  cold,  then  make  into  little  egg 
shaped  balls,  let  them  dry  a  little,  roll  in  beaten  egg 
and  bread  crumbs  and  fry  in  boiling  fat. 

To  vary—  add  £  as  much  chopped  salt  or  fresh  pork 
as  you  have  meat. 

VEAL. 

This  meat  takes  other  flavors  well  and  is  used  by 
cooks  for  all  manner  of  fancy  dishes.  It  is  lacking 
in  fat  and  for  that  reason  easily  dries  in  cooking  ;  an 
addition  of  pork  is  always  an  advantage  to  the  taste. 
It  must  be  always  well  cooked,  never  rare. 

This  may  be  a  piece  cut  from  loin, 

Roast  Veal.  ,  \      ,  ,  r  ., 

breast    or  shoulder,   or    a    rib    piece. 
Roast  like  beef  (see  page  35),  allowing  twice  as  long, 
or  1^—2  hours,  for  any  piece  under  4  Ibs. 
Broiled  veal  Cutlets,  chops  and  steaks  are  broiled 

chops.  like  beef,  but  slower  and  twice  as  long 

and  must  be  buttered  and  floured  to  prevent  drying. 
Should  be  served  with  a  tomato  or  onion  sauce. 
Cook  like  beef  stew,  see  page  46. 

Veal  Stew.  -  .    ,    / 

It  may  be  varied  in  the  same  way, 

and  is  generally  more  highly  seasoned.     Especially 
good  as  pot-pie.     Salt  pork  should  be  added  to  it. 


'  sweet-         yea}  }iver)  SWcetbreads  and  heart  are 
Heart.  all  tender  and  excellent,  but  high  priced, 

especially  the  sweetbreads.  Liver  and  heart  are  pre- 
pared like  the  same  parts  in  beef  (see  page  47),  but  the 
heart  cooks  tender  in  two  hours.  This  latter  is  an  ex- 


Mutton  and  Lamb.  &J 

cellent  dish,  do  not  soak  it — stuff  with  well  seasoned 
bread  crumbs  and  bake,  basting  well. 

MUTTON    AND    LAMB. 

Mutton  and  The  quality  of  mutton  is  so  varying 

Lamb.  that  when  cooked  the  dish  is  often  a  dis- 

appointment.     The  influence   of  long  keeping   or 
"  hanging"  upon  it  is  even  more  beneficial  than  upon 

beef. 

Fat  of   Mutton.     Some   cooks  trim 

Mutton  Fat.  ,  . ,       „    „    ,    -  T, 

away  every  bit  of  fat  from  mutton.  It 
is  perfectly  wholesome,  but  sometimes  gets  a  taste 
from  coming  in  contact  with  the  hide  or  hair  of  the 
animal;  hence  the  prejudice.  Scrape  the  outside  of 
the  meat  well,  pulling  off  the  dried  skin  and  cutting 
away  the  dark  ends. 

Unlike  beef,  other  pieces  besides  the 

Pieces  to  roast.       .,  ,   „  , ,       -,    •  •, 

rib  are  good  for  roasting;  the  loin  and 
haunch  are  most  economical,  the  shoulder  next,  the 
leg  next.  Koast  like  beef,  see  page  35. 

Unless  the  meat  is  first  class,  do  not  roast,  but  boil 
it.     The  leg  is  oftenest  used  for  this  purpose. 

Simmer    about    12   minutes  to  the 

To  boil  mutton.  ,       . ,      .    .      . ,  ,       -,      ,  » 

pound ;  that  is  the  rule,  but  very  fre- 
quently the  meat  when  it  comes  on  the  table,  will 
be  tough,  owing  entirely  to  the  difference  in  the  qual- 
ity of  the  meat.  Such  meat  must  be  boiled  twice  as 
long,  or  is  better  cooked  in  a  stew. 

The  chop  is  oftenest  broiled  and  is 
ichops'     a  famous  dish.     Cut  f  in.  thick,  and 
broil  rare  like  beef. 

Chops  and  cutlets  are  excellent  fried  in  fat.     See 
page  40. 


M  Pork 

Mutton  stew.  This  is  the  most  economical  and  per- 

haps the  most  satisfactory  of  all  mutton  dishes.     The 
inferior  parts,  as  the  neck,  are  as  good  as  any  for  this 
purpose.     Proceed  exactly  as  with  beef  stew. 
A  good  stew  is  made  from  sheep's  kidneys. 

These    may  be    mentioned   because 

Sheep  tongues.  . .  . , 

sometimes  thrown  away  or  sold  very 
cheap.  Clean  well,  and  simmer  1£  hours,  with  a 
little  pork  and  onion.  Add  to  the  gravy  1  table- 
spoon of  vinegar. 

All  these  recipes  for  mutton  apply  to  the  cooking 
of  lamb  ;  remembering  however,  that  lamb,  like  veal, 
must  be  thoroughly  cooked. 

POKK. 

Pork  does  not  need  to  be  kept  in  order  to  be  ten- 
der, that  is  one  of  its  great  recommendations  to  the 
housekeeper.  It  is  also  easily  cooked  and  we  m&j 
lay  aside  some  of  the  precautions  we  use  regarding 
beef:  The  lean  of  fresh  pork  however,  is  apt  to  dry 
in  cooking. 

The  leg,  the  loin  and  the  chine  are 

Roasting  pieces.  ,  ,.  .  ,,         ,,         .. 

good  roasting  pieces  as  well  as  the  rib. 
Pork  is  so  rich  in  flavor  that  it  seasons  finely  a  bread 
crumb  dressing,  to  which  add  a  little  sage  and  vin- 
egar or  chopped  pickles.  Bake  separately,  and  lay 
around  it  when  served.  Or  better,  though  more 
trouble,  make  -holes  in  the  roast  and  force  the  stuff- 
ing in. 

Put  directly  into  a  hot  oven  in  a  pan  containing 
some  hot  fat,  and  baste  very  frequently  till  done. 
Allow  at  least  20  minutes  to  the  pound. 


Ham.  53 

steaks  and  chops.  Steaks  and  chops  are  broiled,  but  the 
surface  must  be  kept  well  moistened  with  butter  or 
beef  fat,  or  they  will  be  dry  and  tasteless. 

Fresh  pork  is  seldom  boiled  and  it  is 
too  fat  for  a  stew,  though  the  lean  may 
be  selected  and  cooked  like  beef  stew.  It  makes  also 
an  excellent  potpie,  or  meat  pie.  See  page  46. 

Pig's  liver  is  good  cooked  like  beefs 
liver,  and  is  cheaper.  See  page  47. 

The  cooking  of  this  is  very  simple. 

Pork  Sausage.       T-,         ,  .  „  , , 

.bry  brown  in  a  trying  pan  on  the 
stove,  or  better,  set  the  pan  in  a  hot  oven,  you  will 
then  avoid  the  sputtering  of  the  fat. 

HAM,    SALT   PORK   AND   BACON. 

Ham  may  be  cooked  in  any  way  in  which  fresh 
pork  is  cooked.  It  may  be  cut  in  -J  in.  slices,  or 
thinner,  and  broiled  or  fried  lightly  in  a  pan.  If 
long  cooked  it  becomes  tough  and  dry.  If  too  salt 
for  this,  it  may  be  soaked  a  half  hour  in  warm 
water. 

A  large  piece  of  ham  is  best  boiled.  If  very  salt, 
soak  it  in  cold  water  for  24  hours,  then  put  into 
cold  water,  bring  slowly  to  a  boil,  and  simmer  half 
a  day  if  the  ham  is  of  good  size.  A  ham  may  also  be 
baked. 

Dishes  from  cold      So  highly  flavored   a   meat   can   be 
ham.          used    in    numberless   ways,   especially 
combined  with  vegetables  and  bread. 

Chop  -J-  Ib.   fine,  season  with  mus- 

Sandwiches.  ,  -.    ^     .    ,  , 

tard,  pepper  and  1  tablespoon  vinegar. 
Spread  between  slices  of  buttered  bread, 


54  Salt  Pork  and  Bacon. 

Ham  cakes.  Take   1   cup   finely  chopped  boiled 

ham,  2  cups  of  breadcrumbs,  2  eggs,  pepper  and  salt, 
and  enough  milk  to  make  quite  moist. 

To  use.  1st.  Fry  on  a  griddle  in  small  spoonfuls, 
and  turn  as  pancakes. 

3d.  Use  mashed  potatoes  instead  of  breadcrumbs, 
and  fry  as  above. 

3d.    Take  either  of  the  above  mix- 

Croquettes.  .          ,  ,...,  .,, 

tures,  using,  however,  little  or  no  milk, 
make  kito  little  balls  and  after  rolling  in  egg  and  bread- 
crumbs, fry  in  boiling  fat. 

4th.  With  eggs.     Put  either  of  these 

With  eggs.  .  .  &°  .  .  .  ,  ,      , 

mixtures  into  a  baking  dish;  smooth  the 
surface  and  make  little  hollows  in  it  with  the  bowl  of 
a  spoon.  Put  in  the  oven  till  hot,  then  break  an  egg 
into  each  depression,  and  return  to  the  oven  till  the 
eggs  are  set. 

Broiled  Salt  Pork  After  slicing  thin,  freshen  salt  pork 
and  Bacon  by  laying  in  cold  water  over  night  or  -J- 
hour  in  warm  water.  Broil  till  transparent  and  a 
delicate  brown  in  color.  Broil  bacon  without  freshen- 
ing. 

Less  delicate  than  broiled,  but  much 

more  economical,  because  saving  the 

fat.     Fry  only  till  transparent.     Salt  pork  must  be 

first  freshened.     To  make  milk  gravy  of  the  fat,  see 

"meat  and  vegetable  sauces,"  page  73. 

Both  salt  pork  and  bacon  are  boiled  with  vegeta- 
bles. 

Bacon  or  Pork  and  Cabbage.  This  is  a  favorite 
mixture,  and  if  the  cabbage  is  only  boiled  half  an 
hour  and  not  in  the  same  pot  with  the  pork,  it  is  not 


Fresh  Fish.  55 

an  indigestible  dish.  Put  the  pork  into  cold  water, 
bring  slowly  to  a  boil  and  simmer  from  -J  to  2  hours, 
according  to  size  of  piece. 

Cook  1  qt.  dried  peas  according  to 

Pork  and  Peas.       ,.        ,.          -1  *  .,  -,  „       ^    ., 

directions  tor  pea  soup,  page  117.  Boil 
pork  with  the  peas  during  the  last  hour,  or  after 
parboiling,  bake  like  pork  and  beans. 

Cook  1  qt.  beans  according  to  soup 

Pork  and  Beans.  .  *,»        r>     i.    -T  -.  ^^       i^-n 

recipe,  page  117.     Parboil  1  Ib.  salt  side 
pork,  score  the  skin  in  squares,  half  bury  in  the  beans 
and  bake  2  hours,  or  till  a  nice  brown. 
Pork  and  Pota-        Slice  a  dozen  potatoes  thin,  also  £  Ib. 
toes.  fat  salt  pork,  put  into  a  pudding  dish 

in  alternate  layers,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper 
(only  a  little  of  the  former).  Bake,  covered,  -j-  hour, 
uncover  and  brown. 

Fruits  seasoned  with  meat  juices  and 

Pork  and  Apples.  .    ,  ,        .        ... 

fats,  instead  of  with  sugar,  are  not 
enough  known  among  us. 

Slice  sour  apples  round  in  slices  -J  in.  thick  with- 
out peeling,  and  fry  with  strips  of  pork  or  bacon. 
Serve  together. 

FRESH    FISH. 

The  varieties  of  fresh  fish  are  numberless,  and  to 
cook  and  serve  them  in  perfection  requires  careful 
study  from  the  cook.  The  subject  must  here  be 
treated  very  briefly. 

Fresh  fish  may  be  cooked  in  any  of  the  ways  appli- 
cable to  meat ;  the  length  of  time  being  much  shorter, 
and  care  being  required  on  account  of  the  delicacy  of 
the  ftlbre,  This  makes  broiling  somewhat 


56  Salt  Fish. 

Small  fish  are  perhaps  best  egged  and  bread  crumbed 
and  fried  in  hot  fat. 

This  dish  deserves  especial  mention 
because  of  its  cheapness  and  good  fla- 
vor.    It  may  be  made  of  any  fresh  fish. 

Fill  a  pudding  dish  with  the  fish  cut  in  pieces, 
seasoning  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  bits 
of  suet  or  fat  pork  ;  put  over  it  a  potato  crust  as  for 
meat  pie  ( see  page  46 ),  or  a  soda  biscuit  crust,  and 
bake.  Bread  crumbs  or  sliced  potatoes  may  be  mixed 
with  the  fish,  and  more  seasoning  used. 

Fresh   fish   can   also  be   made  into 
soups,  and  the  cheaper  kinds  should  be 
more  used  for  this  purpose. 

Cook  1  tablespoon  of  flour  in  1  table- 
Codfish  SOUp.  nil,  A   n  -I    -,  1       L  Ml 

spoon  of  butter.  Add  1-J  qts.  milk,  or 
milk  and  water,  and  when  it  boils  stir  in  1  teacup  of 
cold  boiled  codfish  that  has  been  freed  from  skin  and 
bones  and  then  chopped  fine  or  rubbed  through  a 
sieve.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Bullhead  or  cat-  An  excellent  soup  can  be  made  of 

fish  soup.       this  cheap  fish. 

Clean  and  cut  up  2  or  3  Ibs.  and  boil  an  hour  in  2 
qts.  water  with  an  onion  and  a  piece  of  celery  or  any 
herbs  ( it  must  be  well  seasoned ).  Then  add  1  cup 
of  milk  and  a  piece  of  butter  or  beef  fat,  or  a  piece 
of  salt  pork  cut  in  bits  may  be  boiled  with  the  fish. 

SALT  FISH. 

salt  cod.  Tjrig  is  one  of  the  cheap  foods  that 

seems  to  be  thoroughly  appreciated  among  us,  and 
good  ways  of  cooking  it  are  generally  understood. 


Fowls.  57 

It  must  be  freshened  by  laying  it  in  water  over 
night ;  put  into  cold  -water  and  bring  gradually  to  a 
boil;  set  the  kettle  back  where  it  will  keep  hot  for 
half  an  hour,  separate  the  flakes  and  serve  with  a 
milk  sauce. 

This    favorite   dish   is   prepared   by 

Fish  Balls.  ,,.  .  •  -J 

adding  to  codfish,  boiled  as  above  and 
finely  shredded,  a  like  quantity  of  mashed  potato. 
Make  into  balls  and  fry  on  a  griddle  or  in  boiling  fat. 
Any  other  fish  can  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

FOWLS. 

The  flesh  of  fowls  cannot  rank  among  cheap  foods, 
but  in  any  economical  family  the  Sunday  dinner  may 
often  be  a  fricassee  made  of  a  fowl  no  longer  young. 
Unless  very  ancient,  the  flavor  of  such  a  fowl  will  be 
richer  than  that  of  a  chicken ;  we  have  but  to  cook 
it  till  it  is  tender. 

old  Fowl  Fric-         Cut  into  joints,  put  into  cold  water 
asseed  anc[  bring  slowly  to  a  simmering  heat ; 

on  no  account  let  it  boil, —  keep  it  as  nearly  as  pos- 
sible at  170°  for  3  or  4  hours,  or  till  it  is  very  tender. 
At  the  end  of  2  hours,  add  a  sliced  onion  and  salt 
and  thicken  the  gravy. 

None  but  the  wealthy  should  use 

Chicken  Soup.         ,  .   ,  „  1,1.  n       -, 

chickens  lor  soup,  but  irom  the  bones 
left  of  baked  or  fricasseed  chicken  a  good  and  eco- 
nomical soup  can  be  made.  Boil  an  hour  or  two, 
take  out  the  .bones,  thicken  a  little  and  serve  with 
bread  dice  fried  in  butter. 

An  excellent  soup  can  be  made  of  the 

Giblet  Soup.  .  ,         .      ,  ,.  ,          ,       „ 

giblets,  that  is,  heart,  liver  and  neck  01 
chicken,  and  other  fowls,  which  in  city  markets  are 


58  Eggs. 

sold  separately  and  very  cheap.  Cut  in  small  pieces 
and  boil  2  hours  with  onion  and  herbs,  then  add  a 
little  butter  and  thickening,  salt  and  pepper. 

EGGS. 

The  importance  of  eggs  is  to  be  estimated  from 
various  points  of  view;  their  food  value  is  great, 
their  digestibility  when  fresh  is  almost  perfect,  and 
they  can  be  cooked  in  so  many  ways  and  are  a  neces- 
sary ingredient  of  so  many  dishes,  that  the  cook  could 
ill  spare  them.  Indeed,  in  all  countries,  their  con- 
sumption seems  to  be  limited  only  by  their  price. 

After  the  first  twenty-four  hours  an 

Freshness.  _..        ,   ,      .        f  ™ 

egg  steadily  deteriorates.  Physicians 
say,  "never  give  to  an  invalid  an  egg  that  is  more 
than  two  or  three  days  old." 

There  are  methods  in  use  for  preserving  eggs  fresh, 
on  the  principle  of  excluding  air  by  sealing  up  the 
pores  of  the  shell,  but  none  of  them  are  without  risk 
and  they  cannot  be  recommended  to  one  who  must 
economize  closely.  It  is  better  to  go  without  eggs  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  winter. 

Eggs  are  as  digestible  raw  as  cooked, 

and  one  easily  comes  to  like  the  taste  of 

a  fresh  raw  egg  beaten  to  a  foam  and  mixed  with  a 

little  milk  or  water  and  sugar  flavored  with  a  Jittle 

nutmeg  or  jelly. 

To  soft  boil  an  egg  its  temperature 

Soft  Boiled  Eggrs.    •,-,-,  .      -,1    *       -,  ^Ao        mi 

should  not  be  raised  above  170°.  The 
white  will  then  be  a  jelly-like,  digestible  substance, 
but  if  exposed  to  a  higher  temperature,  the  white 
becomes  horny  while  the  yolk  remains  imcooked  or 


Egg  Dishes.  59 

becomes  pasty.  There  are  two  methods  of  boiling  an 
egg  properly,  which  may  be  adopted  according  to 
convenience. 

1st.  Allow  1  qt.  of  boiling  water  to  4  eggs.  Use  a 
pail  or  jar  ( heated  before  the  water  is  put  in )  and 
wrap  around  with  a  flannel  cloth.  The  eggs  will  be 
done  in  6  minutes,  but  are  not  harmed  by  ten. 

3d.  Put  the  eggs  into  cold  water  and  bring  slowly 
to  a  boil.  They  are  done  when  the  water  begins  to 

boil. 

To  boil  an  egg  hard,  it  is  no  more 

Hard  Boiled  Eggs.  ..  ,  .    ,     , 

necessary  to  expose  it  to  a  high  degree 
of  heat  than  in  the  case  of  the  soft  boiled ;  the  heat 
must  simply  be  much  longer  continued,  20  minutes 
to  a  half  hour.  The  egg  will  then  be  solid  but  not 
horny  as  when  cooked  in  boiling  water. 

A  great  many  attractive  dishes  can  be  made  of  cold 
boiled  eggs. 

Scrambled,  These  are  but  different  modes  of  cook- 

poached,  omelet,  . 
and  baked  eggs,    mg  eggs  sof  t  or  solid.     The  taste  will 

be  more  delicate  and  they  will  be  more  digestible  if 
in  these  cases  also  only  the  low  degree  of  heat  above 
mentioned  be  applied — more  time  being  given  them 
than  is  usually  allowed. 

EGG   DISHES. 

These  dishes  under  many  names  and  in  many  forms 
are  of  next  importance  after  meats,  composed,  as  they 
generally  are,  of  eggs  and  vegetables  or  some  prepara- 
tion of  the  grains,  while  numberless  additions  and  fla- 
vors are  used  to  give  variety  and  make  the  dish  tempt- 
ing to  the  eye  and  palate.  Eggs  so  prepared  have  their 
full  nutritive  value;  not  so  in  rich  puddings  and  cakes. 


60  Egg  Dishes. 

where  they  are  mixed  with  more  sugar  and  fat  than 
the  system  can  take  up  in  any  quantity. 

The  following  are  a  few  recipes  that  have  not  been 
included  under  other  heads.  Many  others  will  be 
found  under  the  Cooking  of  the  Grains. 

1  cup  of  hard  bread  partly  softened  in 

Bread  omelet.       ,  . 

hot  water  and  milk,  or  in  cold  water 
(in  which  case  press  in  a  cloth  and  crumble),  add  -J-  of  a 
chopped  onion,  1  tablespoon  chopped  parsley,  1  egg, 
salt  and  pepper.  Heat  in  the  frying  pan  or  square 
baking  pan,  some  bits  of  suet  or  beef  fat,  and  pour 
in  the  omelet.  Cover  and  bake  five  minutes,  then 
uncover  and  brown.  Or  it  may  be  cooked  slowly  on 
top  of  the  stove.  Cut  in  pieces  and  serve  around  the 
meat  or  with  a  gravy. 

Bread,  fresh  or  stale,  is  cut  in 


Egged  bread.          ,    .  ,         ... 

strips,  or  in  squares  or  rounds  with   a 

cake  cutter.  Let  them  soak  till  soft  but  not  broken, 
in  1  pt.  of  salted  milk  into  which  two  eggs  have  been 
beaten.  Bake  a  nice  brown  or  fry  on  a  griddle  in 
half  suet  and  half  butter.  (May  be  made  with  one 

egg-) 

Fry  a  small  onion,  sliced,  in  a  tea- 

Potato  omelet.  <.    i      j?   i      11  j>    ,      ^n,i 

spoonful  of  butter  or  fat;  fill  the  pan 
with  2  cups  of  cold  sliced  potatoes,  salt  and  pepper 
them,  and  pour  over  them  2  beaten  eggs.  Bake  slowly 
till  it  is  just  solid  and  turn  out  carefully  on  a  plat- 
ter. Or,  1  cup  potatoes  and  1  cup  bread  crumbs 

may  be  used. 

1  cup  cold  boiled  rice,  2    teaspoons 

Rice  omelet.  .,,      ^  ,  ,  ,,        ..-.  , 

milk,  1  egg,  •£  teaspoon  salt.  Mix  and 
pour  into  a  pan  in  which  a  tablespoon  of  butter  has 


Y  OF  CALIFORNIA 
OF  HOME  ECONOMICS 
HQUSliHQU)  SCIENCE 
Okeese  Dishes.  61 

been  heated.  Fry  and  double  over  when  done.  Or, 
it  may  be  baked  like  potato  omelet. 

1  egg,  1  cup  milk,  2  tablespoons  flour, 

Flour  omelet.  ,        „       ,,        -.  ,    , ,       ,       ,  ,  .  „ 

pinch  oi  salt,  add  the  beaten  white  or 
the  egg  last. 

This  is  the  "Yorkshire  Pudding"  which  is  cooked 
in  the  pan  over  which  beef  is  roasting;  it  is  cut  in 
squares  and  served  around  the  meat.  It  may  also  be 
baked  in  a  buttered  pan  without  meat. 

3  eggs,  1  cup  flour  (scant),  1  table- 
Tomato  omelet.  ,,      v, 

spoon  tine  herbs,  salt  and  cayenne  pep- 
per, 1  tablespoon  sugar,  juice  of  2  large  tomatoes  and 
1  cup  warm  milk.  Bake  under  roasting  meat,  or  alone 
in  a  buttered  pan. 

CHEESE   DISHES. 

Almost  any  cheese  will  give  a  good  result  in  these 
dishes.  Crumbly  cream  cheese  is  richer  in  taste  and 
has  also  been  shown  to  be  more  quickly  digested. 
Skim  cheeses  are  as  nutritious  except  in  fat,  and  in 
some  dishes,  as  in  "Fondamin"  give  a  better  result. 
Grate  old  cheeses,  chop  new  and  soft  ones. 

Grate  old  cheese  and  serve  with  bread 

Grated  cheese.  ,  ,  T  -IT,-        , 

and  butter.     It  is  also  a  good  addition  to 

mashed  potato,  to  flour  porridges,  to  oatmeal  and 
and  wheat  flour  porridges,  to  rice,  sago,  tapioca  and 
indeed  to  any  starchy  foods;  it  should  be  stirred 
in  while  these  are  quite  hot.  Its  use  with  macaroni 
is  given  elsewhere. 

Cooked  cheese        The  l)asis  of  these  dishes  is  toasted 

with  bread,      bread  (white  or  graham)  arranged  on  a 

platter,  and  enough  salted  water  poured  on  to  soften  it. 


62  Cheese 

1.  Grate  enough  old  cheese  to  coyer  the  toast  pre- 
pared as  above.     Set  in  the  oven  to  melt,  and  put 
the  slices  together  as  sandwiches.     This  is  the  simplest 
form  of  "  Welsh  Rarebit.' 

2.  \  Ib.  cheese,  1  tablespoon  butter  and  1  cup  milk. 
Stir  till  smooth  over  a  gentle  fire  or  in  a  water  bath 
and  spread  over  the  toast. 

3.  i  Ib.  cheese,  1  tablespoon  butter,  2  egg  yolks, 
-J  teaspoon  mustard,  a  pinch  of  cayenne  pepper.    Stir 
to  smooth  paste,  spread  on  the  toast  and  set  in  a  hot 
oven  for  4  minutes. 

4.  To   each   person   allow   1    egg,    1    tablespoon 
grated  cheese,  -J  teaspoon  butter  or  1  tablespoon  milk, 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  (cayenne  best).    Cook  like  cus- 
tard in  a  pail  set  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water,  stirring 
till  smooth,  it  may  then  be  used  on  toast  or  poured 
out  on  a  platter.     It  may  also  be  steamed  5  minutes 
in  little  cups,  or  baked  very  slowly  for  10  minutes. 

5.  Slices  of  bread  lightly  buttered,  3  eggs,  1|  cups 
milk,  1  teaspoon  salt,  1  cup  grated  cheese.     Soak  the 
bread  in  the  milk  and  egg  till  soft  but  not  broken. 
Lay  the  pieces  in  a  pan,  cover  with  the  cheese  and 
bake  or  steam. 

Fondamm  or          This  is  a  famous  foreign  dish,  and 
Fondue.  although  it  may  seem  to  have  a  good 

many  ingredients,  it  is  really  not  much  trouble  to 
make. 

i  Ib.  of  grated  cheese  (skim  better  than  cream)  add 
to  1  gill  of  milk,  in  which  is  as  much  bicarbonate  of 
potash  as  will  lie  on  a  three  cent  piece,  ^  teaspoon 
mustard,  £  saltspoon  white  pepper,  a  few  grains  of  cay- 
enne, 1  oz.  butter,  a  grating  qf  nutmeg  and  2  table- 


MilL  63 

spoons  baked  flour.  Heat  carefully  till  the  cheese  is 
dissolved.  Add  3  beaten  eggs  and  stir  till  smooth. 
This  mixture  should  be  baked  separately  for  each  per- 
son in  patty  pans  or  paper  cases  and  eaten  imme- 
diately. All  cheese  dishes  should  be  served  very  hot. 

MILK. 

Milk  is  sometimes  called  the  one  perfect  food,  con- 
taining all  the  constituents  in  their  right  proportions. 
This  is  true  only  for  the  requirements  of  a  baby,  but 
it  remains  for  any  age  a  valuable  food  when  rightly 
supplemented. 

Milk  contains  on  the  average  3.31$  proteids,  3.6G$ 
fat,  4.9$  carbohydrates,  87.41$  water,  and  .70$  salts. 

The  housewife,  if  she  wishes  to  use  milk  with 
economy,  will  not  in  cooking  use  it  as  such,  but 
with  due  regard  to  the  different  values  of  the  cream 
and  the  skim  parts.  In  cities  skim  milk  is  sold  for 
about  one-half  the  price  of  full  milk,  and  is  well 
worth  it  if  pure,  but  it  is  too  often  mixed  with  water. 
As  soon  as  milk  comes  into  the  house 

Boiling  Milk.          .,      ,        .  ,  ,       ,     .,    ,  ...  ,       . 

it  should  be  boiled,  as  it  is  a  notorious 
carrier  of  disease  germs  which  only  in  this  way  can 
be  killed.  Use  an  earthenware  pitcher  and  let  the 
milk  remain  standing  in  the  same  after  cooking. 
The  next  day  remove  the  cream  for  the  morning's 
coffee,  and  use  the  skim  part  during  the  day  for  cook- 
ing, with  or  without  the  addition  of  a  little  butter. 
To  keep  milk  sweet  in  warm  weather 

Keeping  Milk.       .  .  , .  ,,      ,  , 

is  a  serious  question  to  the  housekeeper 
who  has  no  cellar  or  refrigerator.  It  is  of  first  im- 
portance that  the  vessels  used  to  contain  it  should  be 


64  Milk. 

scrupulously  clean.  Boiling,  as  above  mentioned, 
and  cooling  it  rapidly  afterwards,  will  keep  it  sweet 
for  24  hours,  unless  the  weather  is  very  warm,  and 
the  time  may  be  further  extended  by  keeping  the 
milk  pitcher  set  in  a  dish  of  cold  water.  A  quarter 
of  a  teaspoonful  of  baking  soda  to  a  quart  of  milk, 
added  while  it  is  still  sweet,  may  be  used  in  case  of 
necessity  but  this  is  not  to  be  commended  for  com- 
mon use. 

A  method  that  the  writer  has  em- 

CanningMilk.  n          ..     .          .  . 

ployed  is  this :  simply  canning  the 
milk  as  one  would  can  fruit.  Fill  glass  jars  and  screw 
down  the  lids,  then  place  them  in  a  steamer  over  cold 
water ;  heat  the  water  gradually  and  steam  the  jars 
for  an  hour,  then  tighten  the  tops.  I  have  never 
kept  milk  so  treated  for  more  than  a  week,  but  see 
no  reason  why  it  should  not  keep  much  longer. 

However,  if  you   find  yourself  with 

Sour  Milk.  J       ,  J, 

sour  milk  on  your  hands,  do  not  throw 
it  away,  it  has  many  uses.  Buttermilk  is  also  very 
valuable  to  the  housewife ;  it  can  be  kept  a  long  time 
in  good  condition  for  mixing  doughs  by  covering 
with  water,  which  must,  however,  be  often  changed 
for  fresh. 

USES   FOR   SOUR   MILK   AND   BUTTERMILK. 

Bonny  Clabber.  put  skim  milk  into  a  glass  dish  or 
into  tea  cups  and  set  away  until  it  becomes  solid. 
Then  eat  with  sugar  and  powdered  cinnamon  sprink- 
led over  it. 

Set  thick  sour  milk  where  it  will 

heat  gradually  till  the  curd  separates, 

then  pour  into  a  bag  and  let  it  drip  till  dry.     Salt 

well,  and  add  a  little  cream  or  milk  and  melted  butter. 


Sour  Milk  and  Buttermilk.  65 

1st.  As  a  drink.     For  this  it  should 

Buttermilk.  ,  »       , 

be  very  fresh. 
2d.  Buttermilk  soup.     (Seepage  123.) 

Both  buttermilk  and  sour  milk  can 
Uses  for  both.       ,  , 

be  used 

1st.  In  making  soda  biscuit  dough  (see  page  102.) 

2d.  In  pancakes  of  all  kinds  (see  page  103.) 

3d.  In  corn  bread  (see  page  103.) 

4th.  In  some  kinds  of  cake,  as  in  gingerbread, 
cookies  and  doughnuts,  where  they  are  by  many  cooks 
preferred  to  sweet  milk;  and  in  almost  any  kind  of  cake 
sour  milk  may  be  -substituted  for  sweet,  remembering 
always  to  use  only  half  the  quantity  of  cream  of  tartar 
called  for  in  the  recipe. 


FATS  A1STD  OILS. 


The  third  food  principle,  Fats,  stands  between  the 
two  great  nutrients,  Proteids  on  the  one  hand  and 
Carbohydrates  on  the  other,  and  we  find  that  we  can 
indulge  in  considerable  latitude  as  to  its  use.  When 
we  wish  to  get  our  food  in  a  more  condensed  form, 
we  can  use  fats  freely  in  connection  with  proteids 
and  lessen  the  amount  of  carbohydrates.  In  army 
dietaries  the  amount  of  fat  is  largely  increased  for 
marching,  and  for  great  exertion  the  quantity  be- 
comes three  times  that  allowed  in  garrison  life.  For 
instance,  the  daily  rations  served  out  to  the  German 
soldiers  in  France  during  the  month  of  August,  1870, 
contained 

Proteids  Fats        Carbohydrates 

Army  Dietary.  .,..,»,  ~0~  00. 

157  gms.       285  gms.       331  gms. 

It  was  represented  by  1  Ib.  10  oz.  of  bread,  about 
1^  Ibs.  of  meat,  and  over  -J  Ib.  of  bacon  besides  an 
allowance  of  coffee,  tobacco  and  wine  or  beer.  Prof. 
Ranke  has  called  this  an  admirable  diet  for  fighting 
men.  In  garrison  life  these  soldiers  would  have  re- 
ceived only  56  grams  of  fat,  and  120  grams  of  pro- 
teids while  the  carbohydrates  would  have  been  in- 
creased to  500  grams  or  more. 

On  the  other  hand,  fat  when  coupled  with  enough 
carbohydrate  food  can  replace  some  of  the  proteid, 
and  often  does  so  in  the  food  of  hardy  and  econom- 


Importance  of  Fats.  67 

Diet  of  Bavarian  ical  people.  The  Bavarian  woodchop- 
woodchopper.  per  is  enabled  by  his  splendid  digestion 
to  arrange  his  diet  in  the  following  way :  he  takes 
little  proteid  from  the  animal  kingdom,  but  in  order 
to  get  enough  of  it  from  vegetable  products,  he  must, 
as  we  know,  take  in  an  immense  quantity  of  the 
starch  associated  with  it,  and  to  this  he  adds  a  great 
quantity  of  fat.  Von  Liebig  says  that  such  a  man 
takes  on  the  average 

Proteids  Fats  Carbohydrates 

112  gms.  309  gms.  691  gms. 

We  see  therefore  that  we  can  have  a  sliding  scale 
for  fat;  that  while  we  should  not  go  below  2  oz.  a  day, 
we  may,  in  case  we  lower  one  or  both  of  the  other 
two  great  constituents,  go  up  to  8  or  9  oz. 
importance  of  People  belonging  to  the  well-to-do 
Fat  not  realized,  classes,  unless  they  have  given  special 
study  to  the  subject,  seldom  realize  the  importance 
of  fat  in  our  economy.  Fat  means  to  them  fat  meat, 
suet,  lard  and  the  like,  and  the  much  eating  of  these 
is  considered  proof  of  a  gross  appetite;  they  do  not 
consider  how  much  fat  they  take  in  eggs,  in  milk,  in 
grains  like  oatmeal  and  maize,  in  the  -  seasoning  of 
their  varied  dishes,  and  in  their  well-fattened  meats, 
where,  as  in  an  average  piece  from  a  very  fat  mutton, 
they  eat  twice  as  much  fat  as  proteid  without  knowing 
it. 

Indeed,  a  well  fed  man  of  the  upper  classes  may 
have  more  fat  in  his  daily  diet  than  has  the  freshly 
arrived  Mechlenburg  laborer  who  spreads  a  quarter 
inch  layer  of  lard  on  his  bread.  The  latter  cannot 
take  his  fat  in  unsuspected  forms ;  he  craves  this 


68  Substitutes  for  Butter. 

principle  with  his  plain  vegetable  diet,  and  must  take 
it  as  he  can  get  it. 

Now  let  us  understand  that  where  economy  is  to  be 
considered,  this  question  of  fat  does  not  take  care  of 
itself  as  it  does  for  the  rich  man.  The  economical 
housewife  should  always  keep  in  mind  that  she  must 
furnish  her  family  enough  fat,  and  furnish  it  cheaply. 
Substitutes  for  Butter  is  a  dear  fat ;  count  out  the 
Butter.  water  in  it  and  see  what  it  costs  you. 
We  must  economize  in  butter  in  as  many  ways  as 
possible.  We  must  eat  more  fat  meat,  first,  that 
which  is  ingrained  with  the  lean  where  it  takes  the 
place  of  water,  as  we  have  seen  under  "Proteids," 
costing  us  practically  nothing;  when  we  eat  our 
vegetables  seasoned  with  such  a  piece  of  meat,  we 
find  them  sufficiently  seasoned.  We  must  also  eat 
more  of  fat  meat  which  we  recognize  as  such,  taking 
pains  to  cook  it  so  that  it  will  be  palatable;  the 
crisp,  brown  outside  of  a  roast  is  always  welcome,  but 
the  fat  of  boiled  beef  or  mutton  will  also  be  relished 
if  served  very  hot.  An  excellent  selection  in  low- 
priced  beef,  is  the  fat  middle  rib ;  the  lean  part  is 
very  tender  and  juicy  when  cooked  in  water  at  a  low 
temperature  for  two  or  three  hours  ( or  in  Heat  Saver, 
see  page  44,  for  three  or  four  hours )  and  the  fat,  if 
served  hot,  any  but  a  pampered  taste  will  relish. 
Too  much  cannot  be  said  in  praise  of  pork  as  furnish- 
ing a  good  tasting  and  cheap  fat ;  it  can  be  cooked  in 
many  ways  and  used  to  flavor  vegetables,  etc. 
Digestibility  of  It  is  consoling  to  the  economist  to 
Fat.  know  that  little  of  this  food  prin- 

ciple will  be  wasted  in  the  body.     Fat  is  more  com- 


Artificial  Butter.  69 

pletely  absorbed,  according  to  the  testimony  of  the 
experimenters,  than  any  other  kind  of  food,  even 
meat. 

We  want  to  say  a  few  words  as  to  the  character  of 
different  animal  fats,  and  then  we  are  done  with  this 
subject. 

All  the  fats  consumed  by  us,  without  exception,  are 
composed  of  three  bodies  called  neutral  fats,  mixed 
together  in  varying  proportions.  These  three  bodies 
are  "olein,"  "palmatin"  (margarin),  and  "stearin," 
and  the  chief  difference  between  them  is  that  they 
melt  at  different  temperatures;  the  more  olein  a 
fat  has,  the  more  easily  it  melts,  and  the  less  it  has, 
the  more  it  is  like  tallow.  In  vegetable  oils,  we  find 
in  addition  to  these,  small  quantities  of  what  are 
called  "fatty  acids,"  and  in  butter  we  have  beside  the 
three  common  fats,  a  small  per  cent  of  four  scarcer 
ones. 

Practically    therefore,    all    fats    are 
alike,    and    when    absorbed    they    do 
the   same  work  in  the  body,   their  varying  flavors 
and  their  colors  having  nothing  to  do  with  this. 

However,  their  flavor,  their  appearance  and  the 
ease  with  which  they  melt  in  the  mouth  and  in  the 
digestive  tract  have  much  to  do  with  our  estimation 
of  them  as  foods.  Mutton  fat  will  do  our  body  the 
same  service  as  butter,  but  because  of  the  relatively 
small  amount  of  olein  it  contains,  we  have  difficulty 
in  swallowing  it. 

As  to  the  comparative  digestibility  of  these  fats,  it 
is  generally  admitted  that  those  which  melt  at  a  low 
temperature,  like  butter  and  vegetable  oils,  are  most 


70  Artificial  Butter. 

readily  taken  up  by  the  system;  it  is  thought  that 
we  could  digest  beeswax  if  it  would  melt  in  the 
stomach.  Still,  although  butter  stands  in  common 
estimation  as  the  most  digestible,  as  it  is  the  most 
palatable  of  the  fats,  the  stomach  finds  no  trouble  in 
disposing  of  reasonable  amounts  of  any  fat  used  in 
the  household. 

The  fact  that  all  fats  are  so  similar 

Artificial  Butter.   . 

in  composition,  and  that,  it  once  di- 
gested, they  will  do  the  same  service  in  the  body, 
first  led  scientists  to  try  to  make  out  of  the  cheaper 
fats  a  substitute  for  butter.  It  was  Napoleon  III 
who  set  the  chemist  Mege-Mourier  at  work  to  dis- 
cover an  artificial  butter  for  use  in  the  army.  This 
chemist  added  butter  color  and  flavors  made  in  the 
laboratory,  to  olein  and  margarin  extracted  from  beef 
suet,  and  mixed  with  this  a  little  real  butter,  and  so 
successful  was  the  result,  that  the  making  of  artifi- 
cial butter  has  become  a  great  industry.  Now  cer- 
tainly no  one  objects  to  artificial  butter  on  the  ground 
that  it  is  made  of  animal  fats,  for  he  eats  these  every 
day  on  his  table  ;  he  objects  because  he  has  doubts  as 
to  the  cleanliness  or  the  healthfulness  of  its  method 
of  manufacture. 

Therefore  since  the  substitution,  to  some  extent, 
of  animal  fats  for  butter  is  from  an  economic  stand- 
point so  desirable,  if  we  cannot  bring  ourselves  to 
use  oleomargarine  we  must  do  the  best  we  can  in 
these  kitchen  laboratories  of  ours  to  make  other  fats 
than  butter  acceptable  to  the  taste. 


Uses  of  Fats.  71 

USES   OF   FATS. 

Beef  suet,  its  Beef  suet  has  many  uses.  It  should  be 
Uses*  bought  perfectly  fresh,  that  surround- 

ing the  kidneys  being  chosen  as  of  the  best  quality. 
Chopped  fine,  it  is  used  in  suet  puddings,  and  may 
be  employed  to  enrich  other  puddings  made  of  skim 
milk,  as  a  rice  pudding;  it  combines  well  with 
bread  crumbs  in  any  hot  dish,  in  bread  puddings, 
bread  stuffing,  bread  omelet  and  soup  balls.  In  all 
cases  it  must  be  chopped  fine  and  cooked  sufficiently 
to  fully  incorporate  it  with  the  other  materials. 
Suet  may  also  be  used  in  many  flour  dishes  instead 
of  butter,  if  they  are  only  cooked  long  enough  and 
eaten  warm,  also  in  all  cake  where  molasses  and 
spices  or  any  strong  flavor  is  used. 

Every  bit  of  marrow  in  bones  should 
be  scraped  out  and  carefully  used.  Its 
taste  is  more  delicate  than  that  of  suet,  and  it  can  be 
substituted  for  butter  even  in  fine  cake. 

Whatever  butter  you  use  in  cooking 

Butter  tried  out.     lini  771*  1-1  i 

should  be  cooked  butter  which  may  be 
prepared  when  butter  is  cheap  and  put  away  for 
winter  use.  So  prepared  it  will  keep  as  long  as  lard. 
A  second  quality  of  butter  may  be  used  for  this,  or 
that  which  is  beginning  to  be  rancid;  if  already  so, 
add  £  teaspoon  soda  to  each  pound,  but  such  butter 
when  tried  out  will  not  keep  as  long  as  that  made 
from  sweet  butter.  In  trying  out  butter  great 
care  must  be  taken  not  to  burn  it.  Put  it  in  a 
large  iron  kettle  and  cook  it  down  very  slowly  until 
you  no  longer  hear  the  sound  of  boiling ;  it  will  then 
begin  to  froth  and  rise  and  this  is  a  sure  sign  that 


72  Preparation  of  Fats  for  Cooking. 

the  process  is  completed.  Set  the  kettle  back  to  cool 
a  few  moments,  then  skim  and  pour  off  the  butter 
from  the  dregs  into  jars.  Keep  in  a  cool  place  and 
closely  covered.  In  any  recipe  use  £  less  than  of  fresh 
butter. 

This  should  be  done  with  even  more 

Tried  out  Suet.  -1^1^11  a  ~n 

care,  to  avoid  the  tallowy  flavor.  Exact 
directions  are  given  in  "  Cooking  Methods,"  page  41. 
The  "scraps"  are  often  relished  by  children. 

This  beef  fat  (which  we  decline  to  call  tallow) 
should  be  put  away  in  cakes  in  a  jar  closely  covered; 
To  use  it,  scrape  it  fine,  sprinkling  a 
little  flour  in  it  to  keep  it  light.  So 
prepared  it  may  be  used  in  any  of  the  ways  mentioned 
under  "suet,"  and  to  this  list  still  others  may  be 
added,  since  it  does  not  need,  as  does  suet,  long  cook- 
ing in  order  to  mix  it  well  with  the  other  ingredients 
of  the  dish.  It  can  be  used  successfully  in  warm 
breads  of  all  kinds,  and  in  all  but  the  nicest  cakes 
if  mixed  with  -J  butter. 

Much  of  the  lard  now  furnished  is  so 
poor,  that  unless  one  pays  a  high  price 
to  a  well  known  dealer,  it  is  better  for  each  house- 
keeper to  buy  the  leaf  lard  and  try  it  out  herself. 

Cut  fine  and  cook  all  the  water  out,  taking  care  not 
to  burn. 

The  "scraps"  are  even  better  than  those  left  from 
suet  and  should  by  no  means  be  thrown  away. 

SAUCES   FOB   MEAT   AND   VEGETABLES. 

The  economical  and  busy  housewife  says  she  has  no 
time  nor  money  for  sauces,  but  the  fact  is  she  cannot 
afford  to  do  without  them. 


Sauces.  73 

All  vegetables  must  have  some  fat  to  season  them 
and  to  use  butter  in  every  case  is  extravagant  and 
gives  no  variety,  while  a  cheaper  fat  if  made  into  a 
sauce  with  flour  and  water,  can  be  flavored  in  a  dozen 
ways. 

DRAWK    BUTTER    SAUCES. 

Drawn  butter,  which  is  the  foundation  of  most  of 
the  sauces  is  thus  made. 

A  heaping  tablespoon  of  butter  or  beef 
fat  is  put  into  a  saucepan;  when  it  boils, 
1  heaping  tablespoon  flour  is  added  and  stirred  as  it 
cooks.  To  this  add  gradually  1  pt.  of  water,  1  tea- 
spoon salt  and  i  teaspoon  of  pepper.  If  you  wish  to 
unite  economy  and  good  flavor  use  -J  tablespoon  of 
beef  fat  in  making  the  sauce,  and  add  -J  tablespoon 
butter,  cut  in  little  pieces,  just  before  serving. 

Milk  sauce  is  the  same,  made  with  milk  instead  of 
water. 

In  brown  sauce,  the  fat  and  flour  are  stirred  till 
they  brown,  then  make  as  above. 

Any  number  of  sauces  can  be  made  from  these 
three  by  adding  different  flavors;  chopped  pickles  and 
a  tablespoon  vinegar  are  added  to  No.  1  when  it  is  to 
be  used  on  fish;  or  mustard  for  mustard  sauce. 

The  addition  of  eggs  raw  or  cooked  makes  another 
variety. 

With  the  help  of  milk  we  can  make 

Milk  gravies.  ,,      .„  „      .,,     ,       , 

a  gravy  as  in  "milk  sauce,  with  beef 
or  pork  fat,  seasoning  with  salt  and  pepper  and  per- 
haps some  powdered  herb. 

Children  like  all  these  gravies,  if  nicely  made  and 
flavored,  to  eat  on  bread  as  well  as  on  vegetables. 
7 


74  Sauces. 

MEAT   SAUCES. 

A  few  cheap  sauces  for  meats  alone  deserve  special 
mention. 

2  tablespoons  green  mint  or  spear  mint 

Mint  sauce.  ,  ,       _,     ,    ,  ,  t 

chopped,  1  tablespoon  sugar,  £  cup 
vinegar.  Mix  and  let  stand  an  hour  or  two. 

Boil  1  pt.  fresh  or  canned  tomatoes 

Tomato  sauce.          ..,        -,•,,•,          .  ,,  -,  ,       ,    n 

with  a  little  onion,  salt,  and  herbflavor- 
ing  until  quite  thick,  then  strain  and  add  1  teaspoon- 
ful  of  flour  cooked  in  a  teaspoonful  of  butter. 

Any  sour  fruit,  as  apples  or  plums, 
Fruit  sauce.  ,    - 

makes  an  excellent  sauce  to  eat  with 
meat.     Apple  sauce  goes  especially  well  with  pork. 
Horseradish  Add  to  drawn  butter  or  any  meat 

sauce.  gravy  \  cup  grated  horseradish.     Sim- 

mer a  few  minutes. 


CARBOHYDRATE  -  CONTAINING 
FOODS 

AND  THEIR  PREPARATION. 


We  are  now  to  furnish  for  the  body  the  third  great 
food  principle,  the  carbohydrates.  These  we  mean 
when  we  speak  of  the  starches  and  sugars,  and  with 
unimportant  exceptions,  they  are  furnished  by  the 
vegetable  world  only. 

As  we  have  seen,  that  troublesome 
body,  cellulose,  plays  here  a  large  role. 
It  is  the  skeleton,  so  to  speak,  of  plants,  built  by  them 
out  of  sugar  and  starch;  the  chemist  finds  no  diffi- 
culty in  his  laboratory  in  turning  it  back  into  dextrin 
and  sugar,  and  our  stomachs  too  can  digest  a  large  part 
of  the  cellulose  of  very  young  and  tender  plants, — 
from  47$  to  62$  it  has  been  found,  of  young  lettuce, 
celery,  cabbage  and  carrots, — but  in  older  plants,  the 
cellulose  proper  becomes  all  intergrown  and  encrusted 
with  substances  of  a  woody  and  mineral  nature,  from 
which  even  the  chemist  separates  it  with  the  greatest 
difficulty,  while  our  digestive  juices  are  entirely  un- 
equal to  the  task.  Therefore  it  is  that  the  whole  art 
of  the  cook  is  needed  in  treating  this  substance;  she 
must  soften  it,  she  must  break  it  up,  and  in  many 
cases  separate  it  as  completely  as  possible  from  the 
sugars,  starches  and  proteids  which  it  hinders  us  from 
appropriating  to  our  use. 

75 


fa  Cellulose. 

In  some  cases,  as  in  oatmeal  and  gra- 
ham flour,  we  leave  the  cellulose  because 
of  its  mechanical  action  on  the  bowels.  To  be  sure, 
this  is  a  wasteful  process,  for  the  cellulose  carries  with 
it  when  it  leaves  the  body  considerable  undigested 
food,  but  better  this  waste  than  to  give  the  muscles 
of  our  intestines  so  little  work  to  do  that  they  be- 
come unable  to  digest  any  but  fine,  condensed  foods. 

As  a  rule,  however,  we  must  think  of  cellulose 
not  as  a  food  at  all,  but  as  a  tough,  foreign  body 
which  we  must  reckon  with  before  we  can  utilize  the 
proteid  and  starch  particles  of  many  important  vege- 
table foods. 

Amount  of  The    carbohydrates,    especially    the 

Carbohydrate,  starches,  are  the  cheapest  of  the  food 
constituents  and  therefore  most  apt  to  be  in  excess, 
especially  in  the  food  of  the  poor.  According  to 
estimates  already  given,  an  adult  at  average  hard  work 
gets  along  nicely  with  \\  Ibs.  of  carbohydrate  mate- 
rial (meaning,  of  course,  the  dry  amount  of  this  one 
principle),  though  fortunately,  as  mentioned  under 
"Fats,"  it  is  found  that  some  of  this  large  amount 
can  be  exchanged  for  fat,  if  the  body,  for  any  reason 
can  better  use  the  latter.  Brainworkers  and  the 
richer  classes  the  world  over  take  less  of  carbohy- 
drates, at  least  in  their  starch  form,  and  more  pro- 
teids  and  fats. 

Inasmuch  as  we  get  these  carbohydrates  from  the 
vegetable  kingdom,  and  because  the  housewife  must 
furnish  them  combined  with  other  principles  as  in 
bread  and  other  things  made  of  flour,  and  in  various 
dishes  in  which  vegetables  are  combined  with  meat, 


Digestibility  of  Vegetable  Foods.  77 

milk,  eggs,  etc.,  we  will  cease  speaking  of  carbohy- 
drates as  such,  and  will  give  a  few  hints  as  to  how  to 
prepare  vegetable  foods  so  that  we  can  get  the  most 
out  of  them,  bearing  in  mind,  however,  what  has  been 
said  about  not  following  out  this  principle  to  the  ex- 
tent of  weakening  the  bowels. 

TO  what  extent  This  leads  us,  first,  to  examine  the 
digested.  general  digestibility  of  the  whole  class 
of  vegetable  foods;  meaning  by  this,  not  the  rapid- 
ity nor  the  ease,  but  the  extent  to  which  the  nutritive 
principle  is  yielded  up  to  us.  It  has  been  found  that, 
as  usually  prepared,  vegetable  foods  give  up  to  us 
from  i  to  -J  less  of  their  nutrients  than  do  animal 
foods,  and  especially  is  this  true  of  those  that  are  rich 
in  proteids.  To  illustrate:  a  workman  eats  as  part 
of  his  dinner  a  dish  of  boiled  beans,  but  though  he 
rightly  considers  that  he  has  been  eating  a  nourishing 
dish,  he  has  really  absorbed  only  60$  of  the  nitrogen- 
ous substances  contained  in  it,  the  other  40$  passing 
from  him  unused  because  of  its  intimate  connection 
with  the  cellulose;  at  least  this  was  the  case  with 
Prof.  Strumpell  who  records  the  result  of  personal 
experiments  on  the  digestibility  of  beans  cooked  whole. 
Now  this  workman  digested  of  the  meat  part  of  his 
dinner  97-|$x  and  this  comparison  shows  how  the 
tougher  kinds  of  cellulose  interfere  with  the  absorp- 
tion of  the  food  matters  which  they  enclose. 

The  starch  part  of  vegetable  food  we  seem  to  get 
out  much  better  than  the  proteid  part,  even  with  our 
ordinary  methods  of  cooking;  thus  out  of  cooked 
rice  we  get  almost  99$  of  the  starch,  but  only  80$  of 
what  proteid  it  contains;  flour  in  the  form  of  noodles 


78  The  Shady  Side  of  Vegetable  Diet. 

and  macaroni  yields  up  98|$  of  its  starcli  and  80$  of 
its  albumen, — in  the  form  of  bread  a  little  less  of  each. 
The  potato  will  give  us  only  75$  of  what  little  pro- 
teid  it  contains,  but  as  high  as  92.5$  of  its  starch. 
Effect  of  too  Although  the  starch-containing  foods 
much  starch  are  cheap  and  although  they  yield  up  a 
good  per  cent  of  this  nutritive  princi- 
ple, they  must  not  be  used  to  excess  for  the  following 
reason.  Starch  must  first  be  turned  into  sugar  by  our 
digestive  juices  before  it  can  be  taken  up  into  the 
blood,  and  if  the  stomach  is  given  more  at  a  time 
than  it  can  master,  certain  fermentations  may  take 
place,  and  digestion  be  influenced.  The  best  author- 
ities say  that  without  doubt  the  continued  and  severe 
diarrheas  of  small  children  are  due  to  the  fermenta- 
tion of  starch  foods  for  which  their  digestive  organs 
are  not  yet  ready. 

These  fermentations,  the  irritating  action  on  the 
bowels  of  too  much  cellulose,  and  the  loss  of  a  good 
deal  of  proteid  substance  connected  with  it  form  the 
shady  side  of  a  vegetable  diet.  Even  the  ox  with  his 
many  stomachs  gets  out  of  grass  and  unchopped  hay 
only  60$  of  the  proteid  and  50$  of  the  fat  contained 
in  it. 

VEGETABLE   PBOTEIDS. 

Even  in  our  part  of  the  world  two  thirds  of  the 
proteid  food  of  most  people  is  taken  from  the  vege- 
table kingdom,  and  in  order  to  choose  our  food  prof- 
itably, we  must  know  where  to  look  for  vegetable 
proteids,  and  how  to  fit  them  for  eating.  Here  the 
cereals  and  the  legumes  are  our  friends,  the  former 
furnishing  from  7  to  14$  in  their  dried  state,  the  latr 


Grains.  ?9 

ter  giving  the  astonishing  figure  of  20  to  24$;  or  as 
much  as  meat. 

GRAINS. 

The  cereals  or  grains,  though  containing  much  less 
proteid  than  the  legumes,  are  more  valuable  to  us 
because  of  their  excellent  taste,  their  availability  to 
the  cook  and  the  readiness  with  which  when  ground 
they  yield  us  their  nutrients. 

Since  the  grains  are  such  important  foods,  a  table 
is  appended  showing  the  average  richness  in  food 
principles  of  those  in  common  use  among  us.  We 
find  that  different  analyses  of  the  same  grain  differ 
greatly  from  one  other,  barley  for  instance,  ranging 
from  8  to  18$  in  its  proteid,  and  this  may  account  for 
a  certain  grain  being  popular  in  one  country  and  not 
in  another. 

In  our  country  we  are  especially  fortunate  in  the 

cheapness  and  excellence  of  at  least  two  of  the  grains, 

wheat  and  in-     Wheat   and    Indian    Corn.     The    first 

dian  Corn.        has  Of  course  much  higher  food  value, 

but  the  latter  is  so  cheap  and  can  be  so  easily  cooked 

that  it  is  a  blessing  to  the  poor.     The  large  per  cent 

of  both  proteids  and  fat  in  oats  is  to  be 

noted,  justifying  as  it  does,  the  high 

esteem  in  which  they  are  now  held  among  us.     At  the 

other  extreme  is  rice,  the  poorest  of  the 

grains  in  both  these  principles,  but  its 

almost  perfect  digestibility  renders  it  very  useful, 


80  Analysis  of  Grains. 


Analysis  of  £ 

Grains.  g 


Fine  Wheat  Flour  10.  1.0  75.2  13.  0.3 

Eye   Flour  ______  11.5  2.  69.5  14.  1.5 

Barley  Grits  _____  11.  1.5  71.5  15.  0.5 

Oat  Grits.  ......  14.5  6.0  65.  10.  2.5 

Buckwheat  Flour  9.5  2.  72.5  14.  1. 
Corn     or     Maize 

Flour  ........  10.15  4.80  68.45  14.  2.6 

Kice  Grains  _____  8.  1.  76.5  13.  0.5 

SUGAES. 

Most  people  would  class  sugar  among  the  luxuries, 
and  indeed  we  are  best  acquainted  with  it  in  those 
combinations  with  fruit,  eggs,  butter,  and  various 
flavoring  matters,  which,  as  puddings,  pies,  cakes, 
custards,  etc.  ,  make  up  our  dessert  list. 

Our  first  concern,  however,  is  with  its 

Food  Value.  „      ,        ,  T.  ,11-1^ 

looa  value.  It  gives  us  the  high  ngure 
of  99$  of  the  third  food  principle,  —  Carbohydrates. 
That  is,  it  must  be  put  in  the  list  with  bread  and  it 
can  be  used  to  a  certain  extent  instead  of  bread  and 
other  starch  foods.  Moreover,  it  is  especially  fitted 
for  a  food  in  cases  where  nourishment  is  needed  im- 
mediately, as  it  is  digested  or  absorbed  into  the  sys- 
tem almost  as  quickly  as  water  and  without  taxing 
the  digestive  organs,  and  perhaps  on  this  account  is  its 
consumption  so  great  in  our  country;  we  live  fast, 
and  we  want  our  nutriment  in  a  condensed  form. 
But  on  account  of  its  cost  and  because  we  are  able 


Sugars.  81 

to  take  only  a  moderate  amount  at  a  time,  sugar  can- 

not,  to  any  great  extent,   take  the  place  of    the 

starches;  we  are  to  value  it  chiefly  for  the  relish  it 

gives  to  other  foods.     As  a  flavor,  it  is 

Its  chief  value.         „    ,,  ,         ,      ,    .„ 

of  the  greatest  value,  but  if  we  prize 
variety  we  are  certainly  accustomed  to  the  taste  of 
sugar  in  too  many  dishes,  as  in  rice,  custards,  and 
various  egg  and  bread  dishes,  which  the  foreigner 
would  sometimes  salt  instead  of  sweeten,  and  eat  with 
his  meat  instead  of  at  the  end  of  the  meal. 

We  would  suggest  that  when  we  do  use  sugar,  as  in 
a  pudding,  for  instance,  that  we  use  less  of  it  than  we 
are  accustomed  to  do,  for  in  that  case  we  could  eat 
enough  of  a  dish  so  flavored  to  make  it  furnish  more 
of  the  real  substance  of  a  meal. 

BEANS,    PEAS   AND   LENTILS. 


Per  cent  of  Pro-       Look  again  at  the  remarkable  per 

teids.  ,.,       .  ,        ,,.        ,       r    . 

cent  or  proteid  given  by  this  class  01 
vegetables.  Beans  and  peas,  23$,  Lentils,  25$,  while 
beef  gives  on  the  average  only  from  17  to  21$.  By  peo- 
ple who  from  choice  or  necessity  live  principally  on 
vegetables,  the  legumes  have  always  been  largely  used; 
their  consumption  is  extensive  in  India,  China,  and 
in  all  of  Europe. 

To  be  sure,  the  quality  of  the  proteid  is  not  the 
same  as  in  meat,  —  it  is  less  stimulating  and  palatable, 
and  perhaps  in  other  ways  inferior,  but  the  proteid 
needs  of  the  body  can  be  answered  by  it,  and  that  is 
a  very  important  item  when  the  question  is  one  of 
economy. 

The  impression  that  dried  beans  and 
Digestibility.  f,  „  .      ,     „        ,    , 

peas  are  "hearty    food,  fitted  for  out- 


82  Peas,  Beans  and  Lentils. 

door  workers  rather  than  for  less  vigorous  people  or 
those  of  sedentary  habits,  seems  justified  by  the  fact 
that  these  vegetables  contain  an  unusually  large  per 

cent  of  cellulose  of  the  tougher  sort 
Cellulose.  ,  .  ,  .  ,  ,.  °  ,  ,. 

which  requires  a  long  continued  appli- 
cation of  heat  to  free  it  from  the  proteid  and  starch 
of  the  vegetable ;  indeed,  unless  it  is  broken  fine  or 
ground  into  flour,  cooking,  however  long  continued, 
will  be  insufficient.  We  have  seen  that  Prof.  Strum- 
pell  digested  only  40$  of  the  proteid  of  beans  cooked 
in  the  ordinary  way,  but  when  they  were  ground  to 
flour  and  baked  he  digested  91.8$  The  fact  is,  we 

could  cook  and  eat  our  wheat  whole 
Bean  Flour.  ,  .,  ,, 

much    more   easily   than   we   can   our 

beans,  and  yet  bean  flour  is  not  in  the  market,  if  we 
except  the  "prepared"  sort  in  small,  expensive  pack- 
ages. It  seems  that  the  best  we  can  do  is  to  cook 
beans  well  and  sieve  them;  in  that  way  we  free  them 
from  the  skins  at  least. 

The  dried  and  split  pea,  though  as 
valuable  as  the  bean  and  already  freed 
from  the  skin,   is  not  as  much  used  among  us ;  it 
should  be  more  employed  in  soups  and  as  a  vegetable. 
Lentils  a  few  years  ago  were  to  be  found  only  in 
large   cities ;   now  they  are   more   easily  attainable. 
Their  food  value,  as  we  have  seen,  is  still  greater  than 
that  of  beans  and  peas,  but  the  taste  is  not  as  agree- 
able until  one  becomes  accustomed  to  it.     An  eco- 
nomist cannot  afford  to  neglect  the  legume  family. 

POTATOES. 
We  in  our  country  need  not  feel  as  bitter  against 


Potatoes.  b3 

die  potato  as  do  the  scientists  of  Europe,  for  we  are 
not  obliged  to  use  it  to  excess,  and  considering  its  cheap- 
ness and  availability  it  is  for  us  a  good  vegetable  and  on 
these  accounts,  though  it  makes  a  poor  enough  show- 
ing as  to  food  value,  we  must  rank  it  next  to  the  bean 
in  importance.  It  has  only  2$  of  proteids,  no  fat  and 
only  20. 7$  carbohydrates,  and  yet  since  it  can  be  pre- 
pared in  so  many  ways  and  we  never  tire  of  its  mild 
flavor,  it  will  doubtless  continue  to  come  upon  our 
tables  more  frequently  than  any  other  vegetable 
But  every  day  or  twice  a  day,  in  large  amounts,  is  far 
too  often;  indeed  those  who  use  it  to  this  extent  must 
be  ignorant  of  its  relatively  low  food  value.  The 
quality  of  the  potato  is  of  great  importance  and  none 
but  the  best  should  be  used.  It  should  be  a  mealy 
variety  and  perfectly  ripe. 

GARDEN"   VEGETABLES. 

Green  vegetables,  excepting  the  pea  and  bean,  are 
not  to  be  valued  chiefly  for  what  we  can  reckon  up 
in  them  of  proteids,  fats  and  carbohydrates,  for  the 
amount  is  very  small.  Except  in  the  height  of  the 
season  they  must  be  looked  on  as  luxuries,  but  we  will 
buy  them  as  often  as  we  can  afford  them.  In  quan- 
tities sufficient  to  flavor  soups  and  stews  they  can 
always  be  afforded,  and  in  this  way  should  be  freely 
used,  carrots,  celery,  parsnips,  and  tomatoes,  for 
example. 

•    FRUITS. 

Our  markets  offer  us  a  great  variety  of  fine  fruits, 
and  many  of  them  are  cheap  in  their  season;  apples 
in  the  fall  are  within  the  reach  of  the  very  poorest, 


84  Fruits. 

Fresh  fruits  have  a  large  per  cent  of  water,  as 
high  as  89$  in  the  orange,  and  few  fruits  have  less 
than  80$.  Their  food  value  is  mainly  in  the  form  of 
sugar,  apples  giving  us  on  an  average  7.7$,  grapes, 
14.3$;  of  proteids,  the  amount  does  not,  with  the 
single  exception  of  the  strawberry,  reach  1$;  but 
fruits  are  very  useful  to  us  on  account  of  their  flavor, 
due  to  various  aromatic  bodies,  fruit  acids  and  sugar. 
The  apple  is  especially  valuable  on  account  of  its 
cheapness  and  fine  keeping  qualities,  and  is  used  in  a 
variety  of  ways  by  the  cook  to  give  a  relish  to  plain 
materials.  Although  our  largest  use  of  them  is  in 
sweet  dishes,  they  are  perhaps  quite  as  valuable  used 
without  sugar;  they  may  be  fried  in  slices  and  eaten 
with  fat  meat,  as  bacon  or  sausage,  or  they  may  be 
used  to  stuff  a  fowl. 

Fruit  is  not  for  all  people  easy  of  digestion  if  eaten 
in  considerable  quantities,  and  this  is  partly  on  ac- 
count of  its  relatively  large  per  cent  of  woody  fibre, 
and  also,  especially  when  not  quite  ripe,  because  of 
the  acids  and  pectose  contained  in  them.  Huckle- 
berries have  12$  woody  fibre,  apples  only  2$  including 
the  seeds  and  skin. 

The  importance  of  dried  fruits  as  food  is  not  well 
enough  understood.  Fruit  loses  in  drying  a  large 
portion  of  its  water,  leaving  its  nutritive  parts  in 
more  condensed  form  for  our  use;  dried  apples  are 
very  near  to  bread  in  the  per  cent  of  nutrients  they 
offer,  and  the  dried  pear  may  be  called  the  date  of  Ger- 
many, so  general  is  its  use.  "With  us  this  fruit  is  too 
expensive,  but  in  parts  of  Germany  the  writer  has 
seen  dried  pears  commonly  exposed  for  sale  by  the 


Cooicing  of  Grains.  &5 

barrel  like  beans;  they  are  eaten  in  great  quantities  by 
the  common  people,  who  seem  to  digest  them  and 
dried  apples  without  any  trouble,  accustomed  as  their 
stomachs  are  to  a  rye  bread  and  vegetable  diet. 
These  dried  fruits  are  made  into  a  variety  of  dishes 
with  meats,  with  potatoes  and  with  beans  and  also 
with  noodles  and  macaroni. 

COOKING   OF   GRAINS. 

The  grains  may  be  cooked  whole,  coarsely  ground, 
as  grits,  and  finely  ground,  as  flour. 
Grains  cooked         All  these  grains  can  be  cooked  whole 
whole.  but  it  is  seldom  done,  because  of  the 

length  of  time  required.  Only  rice  and  barley  are 
generally  so  cooked. 

In  cooking  rice,  the  aim  should  be  to 

Rice.    To  cook.     ,  .,  •        -,-   i-       ,  *  -,       ,-, 

have  the  grams  distinct  from  each  other, 
soft,  dry  and  mealy. 

This  is  the  best  way.     Add  to  the  rice 

Steamed.  .,  ..  ..     ,     ,,       „  .,         ... 

three  times  its  bulk  of  water,  salt  well, 
put  in  a  covered  dish  in  a  steamer  and  steam  J  hour. 
Or,  the  rice  may  be  soaked  over  night,  and  it  will  then 
steam  soft  in  twenty  minutes. 

Put  the  rice  into  a  large  quantity  of 

Boiled.  ,  .  ...  ,,  ,r    . 

boiling  water,  add  one  teaspoon  salt  to 
each  cupful  of  rice;  boil  fast,  stirring  occasionally. 
Drain,  dry  out  a  little  and  keep  warm  by  covering 
with  a  cloth,  as  is  done  with  potatoes.  Save  the 
water  poured  off  for  soup. 

Its  best  use  is  as  a  vegetable  with 

Rice.    To  use.  ^    .  „         111  T 

meat.  Being  of  a  bland  and  neutral 
character,  it  can,  like  bread,  be  made  into  an  endless 


86  Cooking  of  Crrlis. 

number  of  dishes  to  be  eaten  with  meats,  or  into  des- 
sert dishes,  with  sugar,  fruits,  etc.  For  rice  omelette 
(see  page  60),  rice  pudding  (see  pages  107  and  110). 

Grated  cheese  is  a  good  addition  to  rice,  supplying 
its  lack  of  proteids  and  fat. 

Pearl  barley  Soak  all  night  and  boil  soft  in  salted 

boiled.  water.     It  may  also  be  steamed.     Use 

as  a  thickening  for  soups,  or  like  rice,  as  a  vegeta- 
ble, or  as  a  breakfast  dish  with  sugar  and  milk. 

It  is  excellent  mixed  with  its  bulk  of 
stewed  prunes; — pour   over  it   melted 
butter,  sugar  and  cinnamon. 

GRAIN'S,    COARSELY    GROUKD,    OR   GRITS. 

These  are  better  adapted  to  simple  cookery  than 
are  fine  flours,  since  to  make  them  eatable  it  is  only 
necessary  to  cook  them  soft  in  water.  The  grains 
used  in  this  way  among  us  are  cracked  wheat,  farina  or 
wheat  grits,  oatmeal,  hominy  and  corn  meal,  and  they 
are  all  cooked  in  nearly  the  same  way. 

MUSHES. 
wheat,  oat  and        Time  2-3  hours.     This  time  maybe 

corn  mushes.        ,  ,     ,  ,  .  ,  -,  • , 

shortened  by  soaking  the  grits  some 
hours  in  water.  Oatmeal  and  corn  cannot  be  over- 
cooked. 

Amo+nt  of  Water.  They  all,  except  corn,  absorb 
from  three  to  four  times  their  bulk  of  water;  corn,  a 
little  over  twice. 

Salt.     One  teaspoonful  to  one  cupful  of  grits. 

Method  of  cooking.  Steaming  is  best,  as  there  is 
then  no  danger  of  burning  or  of  making  the  mush 


Mushes.  si 

pasty  by  stirring.  Put  the  grits  and  four  times  their 
bulk  of  water  into  a  double  boiler  or  into  a  dish  and 
set  the  .dish  into  a  steamer,  or  use  a  tin  pail  with 
tight  cover,  and  set  in  a  kettle  of  water; — any  way  to 
keep  it  at  boiling  heat  without  burning. 
Uses  for  cold  Porridge.  Stir  any  cold  cooked  mush 
mushes.  smooth  with  half  water  and  half  milk 

to  the  consistency  of  porridge.  Add  a  little  salt  and 
boil  np.  Sugar  and  cinnamon  or  nutmeg  may  be 
added  as  flavor.  Of  course  porridges  can  be  also 
made  of  the  uncooked  grits,  they  are  simply  very  thin 
mushes. 

Pancakes.  I  cup  of  cold  oatmeal,  hominy  or  corn 
mush,  2  cups  flour,  |  pint  of  milk,  -J  teaspoon  salt, 
and  1  egg,  2  teaspoons  baking  powder  or  1  of  soda  and 
2  of  cream  of  tartar.  Or,  sour  milk  may  be  used  with  1 
teaspoon  soda,  omitting  the  cream  of  tartar.  These 
mushes  will  differ  a  little  in  thickness,  and  therefore 
more  or  less  flour  may  be  needed.  Bake  on  griddle. 

Muffins.  The  same  mixture  as  above,  with  the 
addition  of  a  little  more  flour.  Bake  in  muffin  rings. 

To  Fry.  For  this,  only  corn  mush  and  hominy 
are  commonly  used.  When  cooking,  add  a  handful 
of  wheat  flour  to  the  mush  to  make  it  stiffer.  Pack 
while  warm  into  a  square  mould  and  when  cold  cut  in 
slices  and  fry  slowly  to  a  nice  brown  on  a  griddle  with 
a  little  fat.  Or,  the  slices  may  be  dipped  into  beaten 
egg,  then  into  bread  crumbs,  and  fried  in  boiling  fat. 

CORN   FLOUR. 

There  is  one  fine  flour  that  can  be  treated  in  the 
same  way  as  the  coarsely  ground, — that  made  from 


8B  Corn  and  Oraham  Flour. 

Indian  corn.  Perhaps  on  account  of  its  larger 
per  cent  of  fat  and  because  little  of  its  albumen  is 
in  the  form  of  gluten,  it  does  not  form  into  a  sticky 
paste  as  does  wheat  flour,  but  can  be  mixed  with  water 
only  and  then  boiled  or  baked  into  digestible  and 
good  tasting  food,  and  this  is  one  thing  that  makes 
corn  so  valuable  a  grain  to  people  like  the  negroes  of 
the  southern  states,  whose  cooking  apparatus  is  of  the 
most  primitive  sort.  Corn  meal  has  one  peculiarity, — 
it  quickly  sours  and  should  be  kept  no  longer  than  a 
week.  The  kiln-dried  meal,  however,  keeps  indefinite- 
ly, and  is  now  largely  used,  but  is  not  as  sweet  as  the 
freshly  ground.  The  name  "  meal "  seems  to  be  used 
for  both  the  fine  and  coarsely  ground. 

This,    whether   made   from    fine    or 

Corn  mush.  ,  ,  .  «."•••«, 

coarsely  ground  corn,  is  cooked  like 
grits.  See  page  86. 

Hoe  cake  or  corn     1  quart  Indian  meal,  1  teaspoon  salt, 
pone.  Moisten  to  a  dough  with  boiling  water 

or  milk;  let  it  stand  a  few  hours  till  it  shows  air 
bubbles  on  the  surface,  then  make  into  thick  cakes 
and  bake  in  the  oven,  or  cut  in  slices  and  fry  in  pork 
fat  on  a  griddle.  Break,  not  cut,  and  eat  hot. 

GRAHAM     FLOUR. 

This  preparation  of  wheat,  though  finely  ground, 
may  be  treated  somewhat  like  grits,  and  a  bread  may 
be  made  of  it  with  the  addition  of  water  only  which 
will  be  light  and  palatable.  The  secret  of  success  is 
in  having  the  oven  very  hot. 

Mix  salted  graham  flour  with   cold 

Graham  g-ems.  ,  .  t  * .  i  n     ,       n 

water  to  a  batter  thick  enough  to  drop, 
then  put  it  into  iron  forms  already  heated,  and  bake 
in  a  very  hot  oven  for  about  fifteen  minutes. 


Fine  Wheat  Flour.  89 

FINE    WHEAT    FLOUR. 

Flour  may  be  cooked,  of  course,  in  boiling  water 
or  milk,  and  in  this  way  is  used  to  thicken  gravies  or 
soups,  and  also  to  make  a  sort  of  mush  with  milk 
and  eggs.  See  "  Minute  Pudding,"  page  107. 

The  principle  of  cooking  it  in  this  case  differs  not 
at  all  from  the  cooking  of  a  potato;  in  both  cases  the 
starch  granules  soak  up  the  hot  water  till  they  burst 
their  cellulose  walls.  But  if  we  were  to  try  to  bake 
flour  when  wet  up  into  a  thick  paste,  we  would  find  it, 
in  the  first  place,  difficult  to  accomplish,  the  heat  being 
very  slowly  communicated  from  the  surface  to  the 
interior,  and  when  done,  we  would  have  only  a  tough 
indigestible  mass.  There  is,  however,  one  way  of 
preparing  such  a  paste  for  cooking,  which  we  will  con- 
sider before  treating  the  "  raising"  of  flour  for  bread. 
Flour  dough  is  in  this  case  kneaded  hard,  rolled  thin 
and  then  dried.  So  treated  we  know  it  in  the  form  of 

MACARONI   AND    NOODLES. 

Macaroni.  A  trade  article  extensively  used 

abroad  where  the  best  kinds  cost  only  ten  to  twelve 
cents  a  pound,  and  the  broken  or  imperfect  sticks 
not  more  than  seven.  It  is  a  valuable  article  of  food, 
but  its  use  will  not  become  extensive  among  us  while 
it  is  so  dear. 

Like  the  fine  flour  of  which  it  is  principally  com- 
posed it  is  deficient  in  fat,  and  must  be  eaten  with 
the  addition  of  butter,  cheese  or  milk. 

How  cooked.  Put  into  plenty  of  salted  boiling 
water,  and  boil  twenty  or  thirty  minutes,  till  it  is 
perfectly  tender  (if  old  it  takes  longer  to  COOK). 
8 


90  Macaroni  and  Noodles. 

Drain  carefully,  pouring  it  into  a  cullender  or  lifting 
out  with  a  skimmer. 

1st.   (Best.)  Put   it  in  the  dish   in 
layers  with  grated  cheese  and  butter. 
2d.  Serve  with  milk  and  butter  sauce. 
3d.  Add  two  beaten  eggs  to  the  milk  and  butter 
sauce. 

Like  bread  and  rice,  macaroni  when 

Other  Uses.  i      -i    •  -i     •    j  i  <. 

cooked  is  made  into  a  great  number  of 
dishes ;  it  is  added  to  soups,  it  is  mixed  with  meat  in 
ragouts,  and  it  is  cooked  with  certain  vegetables,  as 
tomatoes. 

Arrange  the  macaroni  in  a  pudding 

With  Tomatoes.     -,.,.?  -^  L   x      \. 

dish  in  layers  with  grated  cheese  and 
stewed  tomatoes.  Brown  in  the  oven. 

This  is  also  a  trade  article,  but  that 
of  home  manufacture  is  much  better. 
It  may  be  called  one  of  the  German  national  dishes, 
so  extensive  is  its  use  among  that  people,  with  whom 
it  often  constitutes  the  main  dish  of  a  meal  without 
meat. 

Ingredients.  3  eggs,  3  tablespoons  milk  or  water, 
1  teaspoon  salt,  and  flour. 

To  make.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  of  the  flour, 
put  in  the  other  ingredients  and  work  to  a  stiff 
dough,  then  cut  in  4  strips,  knead  each  till  fine  grained, 
roll  out  as  thin  as  possible  and  lay  the  sheet  out  to 
dry.  When  all  are  rolled  begin  with  the  first,  cut  it 
into  4  equal  pieces,  lay  the  pieces  together  and  shave 
off  very  fine  as  you  would  cabbage,  pick  the  shavings 
apart  with  floured  hands  and  let  them  dry  a  little. 

To  use.     Boil  them  a  few  at  a  time  in  salted  water 


Bread  Making.  91 

taking  them  out  with  a  skimmer  and  keeping  them 
warm.  Strew  over  them  bread  crumbs  fried  in  but- 
ter or  use  like  macaroni.  (See  page  90.) 

These  noodles  will  keep  indefinitely  when  dried 
hard,  therefore  when  eggs  are  cheap  they  may  be 
made  and  laid  up  for  the  winter.  The  water  in  which 
they  are  boiled  is  the  basis  of  Noodle  Soup;  it  needs 
only  the  addition  of  a  little  butter,  a  tablespoonf ul  of 
chopped  parsley  and  a  few  of  the  cooked  noodles. 

Experimenters  have  proved  that  flour  in  the  form 
of  noodles  and  macaroni  is  more  perfectly  digested 
than  even  in  bread. 

BREAD   MAKING. 
Principles  In-  g0  far  we   nave  use(J  jn   the  Cooking 

of  flour  no  other  principle  than  the 
simple  application  of  water  and  heat.  We  must  now 
consider  how  fine  flour  is  to  be  made  into  what  is 
known  as  bread.  As  before  said,  the  particles  easily 
pack  together  when  wet  into  a  pasty  dough  which,  if 
so  baked,  would  defy  mastication  and  digestion.  We 
must  contrive  in  some  way  to  separate  these  flour 
particles  by  forcing  between  them  air  or  some  other 
gas,  so  as  to  present  as  large  a  surface  as  possible  to 
the  action  of  the  digestive  juices  and  this  maybe  done 
1st,  By  surrounding  these  particles  by  fat,  as  in  mak- 
ing pie-crust ;  2d,  By  the  air  contained  in  beaten 
egg;  3d,  By  forcing  carbonic  acid  gas  through  the 
mass  by  the  action  of  ( a )  yeast,  or  ( b )  of  bi-carbo- 
nate  of  soda  acting  on  some  acid. 

FLOUR   RAISED   WITH   FAT. 

Pie-crust.  The  familiar  example  of  this  method 

is  pie-crust,  where  a  paste  of  water  and  flour  is  re- 


92  Piecrust  and  Egg-Raised  Breads. 

peatedly  rolled  and  spread  with  some  fat,  as  lard,  until 
the  paste  is  in  paper-thick  layers  with  the  fat  between. 
When  baked,  the  air  expands  and  separates  the  flour 
particles,  a  true  lightness  being  the  result. 

So  much  fat  must  be  employed  to  produce  this  re- 
sult, however,  that  the  use  of  this  method  will  of  course 
be  limited  to  the  construction  of  dessert  dishes,  of 
which  not  much  is  eaten  at  once. 

A  flour  rich  in  starch  is  better  for  this  purpose 
than  a  gluten  flour. 

FLOUR   EAISED   WITH   EGG. 

The  next  most  simple  method  of  cooking  fine  flour, 
is  to  introduce  between  its  particles  the  air  adherent 
to  beaten  egg,  and  by  the  immediate  application  of 
heat  to  expand  the  air  and  stiffen  the  mass  thus  ae- 
rated. By  this  method  none  of  the  food  principle 
is  wasted  as  when  yeast  is  used,  nor  is  a  chemical  salt 
left  in  the  dough  as  in  the  action  of  soda,  but  the 
method  is  expensive  and  is  limited  in  its  use  to  what 
may  be  called  fancy  breads  and  cakes. 

We  have  selected  the  following  mixture  as  the 
foundation  for  egg  breads;  of  course  others  are  pos- 
sible: 

Foundation  of         1  quart  milk,  3  eggs,  1  tablespoon  but- 
egg-  breads.        ter  and  1  teaspoon  salt. 

This  mixture  is  then  thickened  with  any  kind  of 
flour,  or  with  part  flour  and  part  bread,  boiled  rice, 
boiled  hominy  or  corn  mush. 

To  mix.  First  beat  the  eggs  very  light,  whites  and 
yolks  separately,  then  the  yolks  smoothly  with  the 
flour  and  milk,  stir  the  whites  in  at  last  very  lightly 


Yeast  Breads.  93 

an<"l  bake  immediately.     The  eggs  must  be  beaten 
very  light,  and  the  batter  just  of  good  pouring  con- 
sistency, thinner  than  if  no  eggs  were  used, 
wheat,  Graham       Add  to  above  foundation  mixture  a 
>r(cakesPal       scant  pint  of  either  of  these  flours. 
Add  to  the  foundation  mixture  one 

Cooked  Bice,  j  v   -V  *  "  • 

Hominy  or       cup  of  flour  and  twocupsof  boiled  rice, 
Corn  Mush       hominy  or  corn  mush  ( or  the  propor- 

Pancakes.  , .  ,  j  \        T>    i      •  n 

tions  may  be  reversed ).  Bake  in  small, 
rather  thick  cakes.  If  they  stick  to  the  griddle  add 
a  little  more  flour. 

Add  to  the  foundation  mixture  1  cup 

Bread  Pancakes.     n  10.  IT  i        1 1 

flour  and    2   cups  bread  crumbs   that 
have  been  soaked  soft  in  milk  or  water  and  mashed 
smooth.     The  batter  should  be  rather  thick.     Bake 
in  small  cakes  adding  more  flour  if  they  stick. 
Muffins  and  Muffins  and  waffles  of  all  sorts  are 

waffles.  made  like  pancakes,  but  a  little  stiffer 

with  flour. 

Other  egg-raised  doughs,  mixed  in 

Other  egg1  doughs.  ,      ,       ,.,»  ,  '    .  , 

somewhat  different  proportions  and 
differently  cooked,  as  fritters,  sponge  cakes  and  bat- 
ter puddings,  will  be  found  in  another  section. 

FLOUR   EAISED   WITH   CARBOLIC   ACID  GAS. 

This  is  brought  about  by  ( a )  the  growth  of  the 
yeast  plant  or  by  the  action  ( b )  of  bicarbonate  of  soda 
on  some  acid.  Both  of  these  methods  have  their  ad- 
vantages. 

The  action  of  the  yeast  plant  when 

brought  into  contact  with  flour  and 
water  is  to  develop  carbon  dioxide  gas  and  alcohol. 
This  it  does  at  the  expense  of  the  little  sugar  already 

\ 


94  White  Bread. 

in  the  flour,  but  still  more  at  the  expense  of  that 
which  it  manufactures  out  of  the  starch,  or  as  some 
say,  out  of  the  gluten.  The  chemist  ascertains  this 
loss  of  nutritive  matter  to  be  as  high  as  1$,  and  Lie- 
big,  who  was  strongly  opposed  to  this  method  of 
bread  raising,  estimated  that  40,000  people  might  be 
fed  on  the  flour  that  was  wasted  in  this  way  in  Ger- 
many alone.  But  notwithstanding  this  waste,  the 
method,  on  account  of  its  convenience  and  the  good 
taste  it  gives  to  bread,  still  holds  its  ground. 

The  time  cannot  be  far  distant  when  the  baker  will 
furnish  us  better  and  cheaper  bread  than  we  can 
make  in  our  own  kitchens.  This  has  long  been  the 
case  on  the  continent  of  Europe,  but  for  some  reason 
we  have  not  yet  reached  that  point  in  civilization 
and  the  housekeeper  must  still  learn  this  art  and 
practice  it,  for  good  bread  is  a  necessity. 

The  best  flour  is,  even  for  the  poor, 

Quality  of  flour.    . ,         ,  . .          ,  -T  , 

the  cheapest,  as  it  makes  more  and  bet- 
ter bread  to  the  pound.  There  should  always  be  two 
kinds  kept  on  hand;  the  yellowish,  high-priced  gluten 
flour  for  bread  making,  and  the  whiter,  cheaper  sort 
for  pastry,  cake  and  thickenings. 

No  recipe  for  making  yeast  will  be  given,  as  the  com- 
pressed yeast  is  so  much  better  than  the  house-wife 
can  make,  and  is  now  obtainable  even  in  small  towns. 

Proportions.     1   quart  warm  water, 
To  make  bread.     _ ,  ,  ,        .  v      „    n  .    ,  , 

2%  qts.   (about)  of  flour,  1  tablespoon 

salt,  1  tablespoon  or  one  cake  of  compressed  yeast,  or 
-J  cup  liquid  yeast.  The  proportions  of  flour  and 
water  differ  according  to  the  quality  of  the  flour,  the 
gluten  flours  taking  up  much  more  water  than  the 
starch  flours. 


White  Bread.  95 

Put  the  flour  and  salt  into  your  bread  pan  and 
make  a  hole  in  the  middle,  then  pour  in  gradually  the 
water  in  which  the  yeast  has  been  dissolved,  mixing 
as  you  pour  with  your  hand  or  with  a  spoon.  As 
soon  as  the  mass  will  hold  together,  take  it  out  on  a 
moulding  board  and  with  floured  hands  work  it  grad- 
ually into  a  tender  dough,  using  as  little  flour  as  possi- 
ble, for  the  dough  must  remain  as  soft  as  can  be 
handled.  This  first  moulding  should  take  from  15 
to  20  minutes.  Then  let  the  bread  rise  in  a  warm 
place ;  the  yeast  plant  can  live  in  a  temperature 
ranging  from  30°  to  170°  F.  but  thrives  best  at  about 
72°.  Cover  with  a  cloth  and  in  winter  keep  by  a  warm 
stove.  If  made  with  compressed  yeast,  the  dough  will 
rise  the  first  time  in  an  hour.  Take  it  at  its  first 
lightness,  before  it  begins  to  sink  back  (it  should  be 
like  a  honeycomb  all  through,  and  double  or  treble 
its  original  bulk),  put  it  on  your  moulding  board,  or 
^  of  it  at  a  time,  and  mould  it  well  until  it  is  fine 
and  tender  again.  Add  no  flour  this  time  but  keep 
the  hands  moist  with  warm  water  or  milk  or  with 
lard.  Divide  into  loaves — small  ones — which  should 
only  half  fill  the  greased  tins,  and  set  again  to  rise, 
keeping  it  at  the  same  temperature  and  letting  it  get 
very  light  again.  Flour  that  is  rich  in  gluten  requires 
longer  to  rise  than  that  containing  more  starch. 

It  is  difficult  to  give  directions  about 
the  heat  of  the  oven.  One  housekeeper 
says  "  hot  enough  so  that  you  can  hold  your  hand  in 
till  you  count  twelve,"  another,  "  until  you  can  count 
thirty,"  and  the  puzzled  novice  can  only  inquire 
"  how  fast  do  you  count?"  The  oven  must  be  hot 


96  Wliite  Bread. 

enough  to  brown  the  bread  lightly  in  ten  minutes, 
and  to  bake  a  small  loaf  in  from  twenty  minutes  to 
half  an  hour. 

If  more  convenient,  a  bread  sponge 

Additional  facts.  ,         ,    G  .  ,      , , 

may  be  made  at  first  with  the  water, 
yeast,  and  part  of  the  flour,  and  when  light,  the  rest 
of  the  flour  added.     It  hastens  the  process  a  little. 
HOW  many  times     Do  not  let  the  bread  rise  more  than 

shall  bread  rise?  twice;  it  loses  each  time  some  of   its 
nutritive  qualities.     Bread  raised  once  is  coarse  of 
grain  but  sweet  to  the  taste. 
TO  keep  bread         Mould  it  harder  than  you  do  bread 

long.  that  is  to  be  eaten  soon. 

Dough  that  has       Set  the  bread  pan  immediately  into 

become  chilled.  a  larger  one  filled  with  warm  water  and 
as  the  water  cools  replace  with  warm  until  the  dough 
begins  to  rise  again. 
Dough  raised  du-     This  method  is  often  convenient,  and 

ring  the  night,  does  very  well  if  slower  yeast  is  used, 
but  bread  is  better  to  be  raised  quickly  with  com- 
pressed yeast.     If  the  latter  is  used  a  forenoon  is  suf- 
ficient for  the  process  of  making  and  baking. 
TO  delay  the  -^or  convenience,  as   to  make  warm 

baking  of  bread  biscuits  for  supper,  rising  dough  may 

dough.  be  kept  at  a  stan(istill  for  hours  with- 

out injury  at  a  temperature  of  about  50°,  as  in  a  cel- 
lar, and  an  hour  before  baking  brought  into  a  warm 
room  to  finish  the  rising  process. 

BREADS    FROM    OTHER    FLOURS. 

Graham  bread.        Graham   bread   is   made  like   white 

bread   using  two  parts  graham  to  one 

of  white  flour,  or  any  other  proportion  liked,  but  it 


ferown  Breads.  9? 

should  be  mixed  very  soft.  A  little  sugar  and  fat 
should  be  added,  1  tablespoon  lard  or  beef  fat  and  2 
tablespoons  sugar  or  molasses.  Bake  slower  and  long- 
er than  white  bread. 

The  usual  and  most  convenient  way  of  making 
graham  bread  is  to  mix  the  flour  and  other  ingredi- 
ents with  some  of  the  white  sponge  on  baking  day. 

Rye  bread  is  made  exactly  as  is  bread 
from  wheat  flour,  but  in  this  country 
4  parts  rye,  1  part  corn  meal,  and  a  handful  of  wheat 
flour  are  generally  used.  It  must  bake  much  longer 
— two  to  three  hours  in  a  slow  oven.  It  is  still  better 
steamed  the  first  two  hours  and  baked  the  third. 

Corn  bread  is  made  of  3  parts  corn 

Corn  bread.  ,   ,      -      „       ,        .   a  ... 

meal  to  1  of  wheat  flour,  same  quantity 
of  yeast  and  salt  as  for  white  bread,  and  an  addition 
of  2  tablespoons  lard  or  beef  fat  and  two  tablespoons 
sugar.  It  is  only  to  be  stirred,  not  moulded,  and  need 
rise  but  once. 

BISCUITS,    BUNS,    ETC. 

Breakfast  roils  or  These  are  "little  breads*3  of  either 
white  or  graham  flour.  Make  part  of 
the  dough  out  into  little  balls  which  will  rise  more 
quickly  and  bake  in  a  shorter  time,  a  little  butter 
or  lard,  one  tablespoon  to  a  quart  of  dough  being 
generally  moulded  with  it. 

When  called  "Breakfast  Rolls"  the  dough  is  made 
out  into  flat  round  cakes,  the  top  buttered  and  folded 
over  not  quite  in  the  middle. 

Milk  rolls  are  made  from  bread  dough 

Milk  rolls.  .  . 

mixed  with  milk  instead  of  water;  they 
are  very  tender  and  delicate. 
9 


98  Biscuit,  Buns,  Etc. 

wheat  gems  or  One  modification  in  the  baking  of 
drop  biscuits,  dough  is  worthy  of  mention.  Use  about 
a  cup  more  milk  in  mixing  the  receipt  for  bread 
given  above,  so  that  the  dough  will  just  drop  from  a 
spoon  and  then  bake  in  forms  in  the  oven,  or  on  a  slow 

griddle. 

These  are  made  from  bread  dough 
mixed  with  milk  and  with  the  addition 
of  4  eggs  and  1  cup  of  butter  to  a  quart  of  milk. 
Form,  long  and  high. 

other  uses  for  There  are  many  uses  for  the  above 
rusk  dough,  dough.  When  made  out  into  biscuit 
shape  it  may  be  steamed  and  eaten  as  a  simple  pud- 
ding with  fruit,  or,  made  into  tiny  balls  and  cooked, 
when  light,  in  a  meat  stew,  the  dish  being  then 
called  a  pot-pie. 

These  are  like  Rusks  (above)  plus  2 

Buns,  plain.  „  -        , . .  . . 

cups  of  sugar  and  a  little  spice,  say,  -J 
teaspoon  nutmeg.  Roll  the  dough  out  -J-  inch  thick, 
and  cut  with  a  biscuit  cutter.  Let  it  rise  till  very 
light,  which  will  take  some  time  on  account  of  the 
sugar. 

To  plain  buns  add  1  cup  India  cur- 
Fruit  buns.  i      -i       n    •     n  T     n  i 

rants,  washed,  dried  and  floured,  or 
raisins  cut  in  bits. 

From  the  recipe  for  Buns,  as  above, 

Raised  Cake.  .    .  j        *,  /  .     i/ 

a  plain  and  good  cake  may  be  made  by 

using  1  pint  instead  of  1  quart  of  milk  to  the  given 
quantity  of  eggs,  butter  and  sugar,  and  adding  a  lit- 
tle more  fruit.  Bake  in  a  ribbed  pudding  dish 
which  has  been  thickly  buttered,  and  in  the  butter, 
blanched  almonds  arranged  in  rows. 


Yeast  Pancakes.  09 

Bun  dough  may  also  be  fried  in  fat, 

Doughnuts.  ,          , 

as  doughnuts. 

For  a  fine  brown  To  give  a  fine  crust  to  biscuit  or 
crust.  buns:  Brush  over  before  baking,  with  a 
feather  dipped  in  one  of  these  mixtures:  one  teaspoon 
of  molasses  and  milk,  two  teaspoons  of  sugar  and 
milk,  or  three  teaspoons  sugar  and  the  white  of  an 

egg- 

To  show  the  true  relation  of  the  above  doughs  to 
each  other,  the  quantity  has  been  kept  the  same  as 
for  bread  dough,  but  one-half  the  given  quantity 
of  cake,  buns  or  biscuit  would  be  enough  for  a  large 
family. 

Any  of    the  above   doughs   can  be 

To  steam  bread.  111  •         •  i      <?  i     i  • 

cooked  by  steaming  instead  of  baking, 
when  more  convenient.  They  will  of  course  lack  the 
brown  crust,  but  may  afterward  be  dried  or  browned 
in  the  oven.  A  somewhat  longer  time  is  required 
for  steaming  than  for  baking. 

YEAST   BREADS  —  THIN. 

Raised  Pancakes.     The  materials  for  these  are,  1  qt.  milk, 

Wheat,  Graham  .,,  .  l    ., 

and  Corn.  or  milk  and  water,  a  little  more  than  a 
qt.  of  flour,  1  tablespoon  compressed 
yeast  or  ^  cup  liquid  yeast,  1  teaspoon  salt,  1  table- 
spoon butter;  the  flour  may  be  wheat  flour,  wheat 
and  graham  mixed,  or  wheat  and  corn  mixed,  or 
part  bread  crumbs  may  be  mixed  with  the  flour. 
Make  and  raise  like  bread  sponge.  It  is  better  they 
should  be  too  thick  than  too  thin,  as  milk  may  be 
added  to  thin  them  after  they  are  light,  but  raw  flour 
added  at  that  time  spoils  them. 


100  Soda  tiaised  £  reads. 

Pancakes  with         Add  to  the  above  batter  just  before 

eggs.  baking,  1,  2  or  3  eggs,  yolks  and  whites 

Muffins  and         beaten  separately.  Use  in  this  case  some- 

Waffles.  whafc  legs  flour> 

These  can  be  made  of  either  of  the  above  pancake 
batters,  with  1  cup  to  1  pt.  more  flour. 

BUCKWHEAT   FLOTJK. 

Buckwheat  flour  makes  bread  that  is  relished  by 
those  accustomed  to  its  somewhat  peculiar  taste,  but 
in  this  country  it  is  used  only  in  pancakes. 
Buckwheat  Pan-  1  qt.  buckwheat  flour,  1  teaspoon 
cafc68-  salt,  1  cup  or  less  of  corn  meal  scalded 
in  a  little  water,  2  teaspoons  molasses  ( to  make  them 
brown  —  a  little  buttermilk  answers  the  same  pur- 
pose), 1  tablespoon  compressed  yeast,  1  qt.  warm 
water,  or  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Let  rise 
over  night. 

FLOUR   RAISED   WITH   SODA. 

Soda.  On  the  interaction  of  bicarbonate  of 

soda  and  different  acids,  by  which  carbonic  acid  gas 
is  liberated  is  based  a  common  method  of  raising 
doughs.  It  wastes  none  of  the  flour,  as  does  yeast, 
but  it  has  its  own  disadvantages.  The  product  of 
these  chemicals  acting  on  each  other  is  a  salt  which 
is  left  in  the  bread;  hydrochloric  acid  acted  on  by 
soda  gives  common  salt,  to  which  there  could  be  no 
objection,  but  this  method  is  not  easily  used  in  the 
household,  and  the  salts  left  by  other  acids,  as  the  lac- 
tic acid  of  milk  when  acted  on  by  bicarbonate  of  soda, 
we  get  enough  of  in  other  dishes.  Whether  reliable 
experiments  have  been  made  as  to  the  comparative 


Soda  Raised  Breads.  101 

digestibility  of  breads  raised  with  soda  and  those 
raised  with  yeast  the  writer  does  not  know,  but  there 
is  a  wide-spread  impression  that  the  former  should 
be  eaten  only  occasionally,  and  it  is  certain  that  we 
tire  of  them  sooner  than  of  yeast  breads.  Besides, 
which  is  of  importance  to  one  who  must  economize  in 
milk,  eggs,  &c.,  better  materials  must  be  used  with 
soda  than  with  yeast  to  produce  an  equally  rich  tasting 
bread  or  cake. 

METHODS. 

We  have  three  methods  of  using  bicarbonate  of 
soda  to  raise  flour;  by  its  action  on 

1.  The  acid  contained  in  sour  milk,  from  1  to  2 
teaspoons  of  soda  being  used  to  a  quart  of  milk. 

2.  On  cream  of  tartar,  the  proportions  being  1  tea- 
spoon soda  to  2  of  cream  of  tartar  to  a  quart  of  flour. 

3.  On  tartaric  or  other  acids  already  mixed  with  it 
in  a  baking  powder  and  to  be  used  according  to  di- 
rections on  the  package,  or,  one  may  say  in  general, 
that  three  teaspoons  of  the  powder  go  to  every  quart 
of  flour. 

The  secret  of  success  in  making  soda 

Secret  of  Success.  n    ,          -.  .   ,      .      ,  .,  ,    . , 

raised  breads  consists  in  ( 1 )  the  per- 
fect mixing  of  the  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  or  the 
baking  powder,  with  the  flour,  cooks  who  are  par- 
ticular sieving  these  ingredients  five  times.  In  this 
connection  we  cannot  urge  too  strongly  that  each 
housewife  should  make  and  keep  on  hand  this  pre- 
pared flour;  in  a  leisure  time  she  can  measure,  sieve 
and  mix  it,  and  she  has  then  in  making  biscuit  or  cake, 
only  to  chop  in  the  butter,  add  the  milk  and  eggs 
and  it  is  done, 


102  Soda  Biscuits. 

2.  In  light  mixing  of  the  shortening  with  the  flour; 
this  is  best  accomplished  with  a  chopping  knife. 

3.  In  a  rapid  completion  of  the  work  after  the  two 
raising  agencies  have  become  wet  and  begun  to  work, 
and  no  delay  in  baking  when  all  is  ready. 

Ingredients.     1  qt.  of  flour.   1   tea- 
Soda  Biscuits.  1A   I'  J.  VI  1  1 

spoon  salt,  1  tablespoon  butter,  or  but- 
ter and  lard,  or  butter  and  suet,  1  scant  pint  sweet 
milk  or  water  with  1  teaspoon  soda  and  two  of  cream 
of  tartar,  or  three  teaspoons  of  baking  powder;  or,  1 
scant  pint  sour  milk  with  1  teaspoon  soda  and  1  tea- 
spoon cream  of  tartar;  if  the  milk  be  very  sour  omit 
the  cream  of  tartar. 

To  make.  In  a  chopping  bowl  stir  all  well  together 
except  the  shortening  and  milk,  then  chop  in  the 
shortening  which  should  be  cold  and  hard,  till  all  is 
fine  and  well  mixed.  Now  add  the  milk  a  little  at  a 
time,  still  mixing  with  the  chopping  knife.  Take 
out  on  the  moulding  board  and  rell  out  with  as  little 
mixing  as  possible. 

This  dough  is  often  made  richer,  even  1  cup  of 
butter  to  1  qt.  of  flour  being  used,  but  so  much  as 
this  can  only  be  considered  extravagant  and  un~ 
healthful. 

To  use  this  dough.     Roll  1  in.  thick. 

As  Biscuit.  ..,     ,  .         . .    *  ill  m 

cut  with  biscuit  cutter  and  bake.  To 
be  eaten  warm  with  butter. 

AS  Graham  Bis-       Use  three  parts  graham  flour  to  one 
cuits.          of  wheat  and  treat  in  same  manner. 

Roll  4-  in.  thick,  fit  into  ielly  cake 

As  Short  Cake.       ,.  , 2,     .  '  •     i     i 

tins  and  bake.  When  nicely  browned, 
split  and  butter  and  pile  up  like  toast. 

For  fruit  short  cake  (see  pages  108  and  109. ) 


Soda  Raised  Pancakes.  103 

SODA   BREAD   OP   CORN   MEAL. 

Com  Bread,  or  1  CUP  sweet  milk,  1  cup  sour  or  but- 
johnnyCake.  termilk,  or  both  of  sour  milk,  1  tea- 
i.  Plain.  spoon  salt,  1  teaspoon  soda,  1  table- 

spoon butter  or  suet  or  lard,  3  cups  Indian  meal,  and 

1  of  wheat  flour,,  or  all  of  Indian  meal.     Pour  into  a 
tin  and  bake  40  minutes. 

2  Richer  ^ke  same  with  an  egg  and  £  cup  sugar 

added. 

No.  1,  with  the  addition  of  3  eggs,  £ 
cup  sugar  and  £  cup  butter,  1  cup  meal  being  omitted. 

SODA    RAISED   BREAD— THIN. 

Pancakes  without  Eggs. 

i.  of  wheat  Ingredients.     1  qt.  flour,  1  teaspoon 

salt,  and  1  scant  qt.  sour  milk,  with  2 
level  teaspoons  soda  and  the  same  of  cream  of  tartar 
unless  the  milk  is  very  sour,  when  omit  the  cream  of 
tartar.  Sweet  milk  can  also  be  used  with  1  teaspoon 
soda  and  2  of  cream  of  tartar,  or  3  of  baking  powder. 

To  make.  Mix  the  salt  and  cream  of  tartar  if  used, 
with  the  flour.  Make  a  hole  in  the  middle  and  pour 
in  the  milk  gradually,  stirring  with  a  spoon  till  smooth. 
Then  beat  hard  for  5  minutes,  or  till  it  is  bubbly.  Add 
the  soda  dissolved  in  a  teaspoon  of  hot  water,  and  bake 
immediately  on  a  very  hot  griddle. 

Unless  well  beaten  before  the  soda  is  added,  these 
pancakes  without  eggs  are  not  a  success. 

If.  made  with  sour  milk  they  will  be  still  better,  if 
when  mixed  ( without  the  soda,  of  course )  the  batter 
is  left  to  stand  twelve  or  even  twenty-four  hours. 


104  Soda  Raised  Pancakes. 

Just  before  using  add  the  soda  dissolved  in  a  little 
hot  water. 

3.  Of  Graham          Are  made  in  the  same  way,  1  part 
Flour.          being  of  white  flour  and  3  parts  graham. 
3.  of  com  As  above,  with  corn  meal  instead  of 

Meal.  graham. 

Pancakes  with  Eggs. 

Ingredients.  To  any  of  the  3  preceding  recipes  add 
2  or  3  eggs,  beating  yolks  and  whites  separately. 

Muffins  and  Waffles. 

Muffins  and  waffles  of  all  kinds  are  the  same  as  pan- 
cakes, made  a  little  thicker  and  with  the  addition  of 
1  tablespoon  of  butter. 

Fritters. 

For  fritters,  which  should  be  next  in  order  (see  page 
113). 


USES  FOR  BREAD. 


These  are  so  numerous  that  the  housekeeper  need 

never  fear  the  accumulation  of  stale  bread,  if  she  will 

only  take  care  of  it  in  time.     Every  day  the  bits  left 

from  meals  and  the  dry  ends  of  the  loaf 

To  Dry  Bread.  .  ,       -,    .    n  ,        ,  .      . ,  ..  . , 

must  be  dried  hard  in  the  oven  and  then 
put  away  in  paper  bags.  If  time  allows,  pare  off  the 
crusts,  cut  into  cubes  and  dry  separately  to  add  to 
soups. 

This  dried  bread  will  keep  for  weeks  or  months  — 
it  must  simply  be  kept  clean  and  dry.  In  any  recipe 
where  bread-crumbs  are  called  for,  as  bread  pudding 
or  bread  omelet,  use  this  dried  bread,  laying  it  first 
in  cold  water  till  it  is  soft,  then  pressing  it  dry  in  a 
towel  and  crumbling  it  lightly  with  the  hand. 

Here  are  a  few  of  the  ways  in  which  bread  can  be 
used. 

USES  FOE  BREAD   IN  SLICES. 

Toast.  In  dry  toast,  milk  toast,  and  water 

toast,  to  be  eaten  as  such  and  as  a  foundation  for 
many  other  dishes. 

Fried  toast — bread  slices  soaked  in  egg  and  milk, 
or  water,  and  fried  on  a  griddle  with  a  little  fat.  (See 
page  60).  Cold  milk  or  water  toast  may  be  so  used. 
Fritters.  For  Bread  Fritters  (see  page  114). 

105 


106  Uses  for  Bread. 

Puddings.  For  bread  and  butter  pudding  (see  page 

in). 

Stale  bread  may  be  cut  in  slices  and 

Steamed  Bread.  n 

steamed  so  as  to  taste  sweet  and  good. 
Set  the  slices  up  on  end  in  the  steamer  and  steam  5 
or  10  minutes,  then  dry  a  little  in  an  oven. 

Bread  Biscuits  of  all  sorts,  even  when  sev- 

Rebaked.        erai  dayg  old,  may  be  made  nearly  as 

good  as  when  fresh,  by  wetting  the  tops  and  setting 

in  a  hot  oven  for  about  five  minutes.     A  convenient 

way  of  having  warm  biscuits  for  breakfast. 

USES   FOR   CRUMBS   OR   DRIED   BREAD. 

Soaked  and  crumbled  as  described  on  page  105  and 
use  in  bread  dough  instead  of  half  the  flour. 

In  bread  omelettes  (see  page  60). 

In  meat  balls  for  soups  and  stews  (see  page  127). 

In  bread  dressing.  Pour  enough  hot  water  on  dry 
bread  to  soften  it  and  chop  it  not  too  fine ;  season 
with  chopped  onion,  herbs  and  suet  or  tried  out  fat. 
The  addition  of  an  egg  is  an  improvement.  Bake 
covered,  about  an  hour,  then  uncover  and  brown. 
This  mixture  may  also  be  used  for  stuffing  a  fowl,  leg 
of  mutton,  &c. ;  or  it  may  be  fried  in  spoonfuls  on  a 
griddle  and  eaten  with  a  sweet  sauce  as  the  simplest 
form  of  pancakes. 

In  bread  pancakes  (see  page  93). 

In  bread  puddings  (see  pages  109,  110  and  111). 

For  breading  chops,  croquettes,  &c. ,  that  are  to  be 
fried  in  boiling  fat, 


SIMPLE  SWEET  DISHES. 


This  department  does  not  pretend  to  be  complete, 
it  simply  aims  to  classify  as  many  of  the  cheaper  kinds 
as  the  ordinary  family  needs.  These  will  generally  be 
used  as  desserts  but  there  is  no  reason  why  the  main 
dish  of  the  meal  should  not  have  some  sugar  in  it.  I 
remember  that  in  a  simple  pension  in  Thuringia,  Ger- 
many, I  once  ate  of  a  dinner  consisting  of  a  soup,  a 
salad  and  one  other  dish,  which  we  would  call  a  bread 
pudding.  I  was  helped  bountifully  to  this  main  dish 
of  the  meal,  I  ate  and  was  satisfied,  for  the  materials 
were  good  and  it  was  well  made  and  delicately  baked. 
The  recipe  will  be  found  on  page  110. 

MILK    PUDDINGS. 

Indian  pudding.       i  qt.  Of  milk,  -J  cup  corn  meal,  1  tea- 
spoon  salt,  -J-  cup  chopped  suet,  1  tablespoon  ginger, 
•j-  cup  molasses.     Bake  covered  for  3  hours  in  very 
slow  oven  and  serve  with  sweet  sauce. 
Swelled  rice  1  <$.  skim  milk  or  1  pt.  full  milk  and 

pudding.  i  pt.  water,  -J-  cup  rice,  2  tablespoons 

sugar,  -J-  teaspoon  salt.  Bake  slowly  2  hours  covered, 
then  uncover  and  brown.  It  will  be  a  creamy  mass 
and  delicious  in  taste.  Serve  without  sauce.  Raisins 
may  be  added. 

Minute  pudding       Ingredients.     1  qt.  milk  —  skim  milk 
of   wheat  or  with  1  teaspoon  butter  will  do  —  2  eggs, 
graham  flour.    ^  ^  flour?  x  teaspoon  salt.     To  pre- 
10? 


108  Fruit  Puddings. 

vent  burning  make  in  double  boiler  or  pail  set  in 
a  kettle  of  boiling  water.  Mix  the  flour  and  egg 
smooth  with  part  of  the  milk,  heat  the  remainder  to 
boiling  and  stir  in  the  egg  and  flour.  Stir  till  it 
thickens,  then  let  it  swell  and  cook  slowly  for  15  min- 
utes. Serve  with  fruit,  or  with  sugar  and  milk. 

Ingredients.     1  pt.  water,  1  pt.  milk, 

Farina  pudding.  y  '     ,*  .'       r 

1  teaspoon  salt,  -J  pt.  farina,  2  eggs. 
Make  as  above. 

This  is  excellent  cut  in  slices  when  cold  and  fried 
brown  on  a  griddle.     It  may  also  be  made  without 


Ingredients.    1  pt.  fresh  buttermilk, 

Buttermilk  _     ,    £  . 

pudding.          2  tablespoons  cream  or  butter,   1  tea- 

spoon salt,  a  pinch  of  soda,  and  flour  for 

stiff  batter.     Steam  2  hours,   or  till  it  bursts  open, 

or  bake  in  little  cups  or  patties.     May  be  eaten  with 

any  fruit  sauce  or  with  milk  and  sugar. 

FRUIT  PUDDINGS   WITH   SODA   BISCUIT   DOUGH. 

For  this  dough,  see  page  102. 

Strawberry  ^ 

Shortcakes.  \ 

cakes  and  spread  between  each  pair 
strawberries  mashed  and  sweetened. 
other  fruit  short-  In  the  same  way  make  shortcake  of 
cakes.  berries  of  any  sort,  stewed  apples,  stewed 
pieplant,  lemon  or  orange  tart  filling,  in  short,  any 
filling  for  a  pie,  that  is  ready  to  eat  without  further 
cooking.  These  should  be  eaten  warm  but  not  hot, 
and  are  as  good  next  day,  if  put  in  the  oven  long- 
enough  to  become  again  warm  and  crisp. 

These  favorite  dishes  are  but  modifi- 


Poly  pud- 
ding  and  apple  cations  of  the  fruit  shortcake.     In  the 


dumpling.        £rgt  the  dough  js  ma(}e  just  stiff  enough 


Pruit  Puddings.  109 

to  roll  out,  covered  with  apples  or  berries  or  other 
fruit,  then  rolled  up  and  put  to  bake  in  a  pan  contain- 
ing a  little  water. 

For  apple  dumplings,  the  crust  is  cut  in  squares, 
sliced  apples  placed  in  the  middle,  then  the  corners 
gathered  up  and  pinched  together.  Bake  like  Roly 
Poly  pudding,  or  steam. 

If  you  wish  to  cook  your  fruit  at  the 
same  time  with  the  crust,  fill  a  deep 
pie  plate  with  fruit,  as  apples,  and  cover  with  the 
rolled  out  shortcake.  Bake  brown,  and  when  done 
lift  the  crust,  sweeten  the  fruit,  replace  the  crust,  and 
the  "pie"  is  ready  to  serve. 

Raised  biscuit  or  bun  dough  (see  page  98),  can  be 
used  in  the  same  way,  or  still  better,  yeast  pancake  mix- 
ture (see  page  99),  in  layers  with  any  sort  of  fruit. 

If  you  will  call  these  fruit  shortcakes  "pies,"  and 
be  content  therewith,  you  will  save  much  labor,  much 
expensive  material,  and  set  before  your  family  a  more 
healthful  dish.  No  farther  recipes  for  pies  will  be 
given;  a  few  that  are  generally  classed  as  such,  com- 
ing more  naturally  under  the  head  of  puddings. 

FRUIT   PUDDINGS   WITH   BREAD. 

i.  Brown  Betty.  Ingredients.  1  pt.  bread  crumbs,  or 
dry  bread  moistened,  1  qt.  chopped  sour  apples,  |  pt. 
sugar,  2  teaspoons  cinnamon,  4  tablespoons  butter  or 
suet. 

Arrange  bread  and  apples  in  layers  in  a  pudding 
dish,  beginning  and  ending  with  the  bread  crumbs, 
seasoning  each  layer  with  the  sugar  and  spice  and 
spreading  the  butter  over  the  top.  Cover  it  till  the 
apples  are  soft,  then  uncover  to  brown. 


110  Cusiard  Puddings. 

The  same,  made  with  raspberries  oi* 

•s.  Uerry  Betty.      ,  _      ,  ,         . 

blackberries.  If  not  juicy  enough,  a 
little  water  must  be  added.  A  pudding  may  be  made 
in  the  same  way  with  cherries  or  any  other  well  fla- 
vored fruit. 

CUSTARD    PUDDINGS. 

1.  Plain.  Ingredients.     1  qt.  milk,  4  eggs,  beaten 
yolks  and  whites  separately,  4  tablespoons  sugar,  a 
grating  of  nutmeg  and  a  pinch  of  salt.     Bake  in  a 
buttered  pudding  dish  till  solid,  and  take  from  the 
oven  before  it  curdles. 

2.  Rice  and  cus-       To  above  ingredients  add  \  cup  of 

terd-         rice  cooked  soft  in  part  of  the  milk,  or  in 

water.     Bake  £  to  f  of  an  hour,  till  nicely  browned. 

This  is  the  foundation  for  the  many  varieties  of  rice 

puddings.     Raisins  may  be  added. 

3  Tapioca  Tapioca  and  Sago  puddings  are  made 

in  the  same  way,  except  that  they  must 

4.  Sago.  j^  goake(;i  for  2  hours  in  part  of  the 

milk  or  in  water. 

Indian  and  cus-  To  the  ingredients  for  plain  custard 
tard  pudding,  pudding  add  1  pt.  of  corn  meal  and  an 
extra  cup  of  milk,  1  teaspoon  salt,  1  teaspoon  gin- 
ger, i  cup  sugar  and  -J  cup  chopped  beef  suet  or  2 
tablespoonf uls  tried  out  fat.  Scald  the  meal  first  in 
the  milk  and  bake  the  pudding,  covered,  two  hours 
in  slow  oven. 

BREAD   AND   CUSTARD   PUDDINGS. 

i.  Bread  pudding      1  qt.  boiling  milk  poured  on  as  much 
or     "Semmei  bread  —  as  will  absorb  it,  about  1  pt.  if 

Geratisch."         .        ,  u_      i 

hard — 4  eggs,  -J-  teaspoon  salt,  -£  cup 
sugar. 


Bread  and  Custard  Puddings.  ill 

The  milk  and  bread  are  allowed  to  get  cold  and  the 
other  ingredients  well  beaten  with  it,  the  eggs  being 
beaten  separately,  and  the  whites  added  last.  Bake 
one  hour  in  a  buttered  dish.  Eat  without  a  sauce. 

Of  course  a  bread  pudding  can  be  made  with  fewer 
eggs,  but  then  it  will  hardly  do  for  the  main  dish  of 
a  meal. 

2.  Bread  pudding  Dried  bread  soaked  soft  in  cold  water 
( simple),  and  pressed  dry  in  a  cloth,  milk  to  make 
it  into  a  soft  mush.  Add  1  beaten  egg  to  a  pint  of 
the  mixture.  Bake  from  half  an  hour  to  an  hour 
and  eat  with  sweet  sauce. 

with  raisins.  Raisins  or  currants  or  fresh  fruit,  as 

cherries,  may  be  added. 

with  dried  After  putting  in  \  the  pudding  mix- 

apples,  ture,  put  a  thick  layer  of  stewed  dried 

apples  mashed  and    sweetened,   and   flavored  with 
orange  peel  or  cinnamon. 
Bread  and  butter      A  convenient  variation  on  the  ordi- 

pudding.       nary  bread  pudding. 

Plain-  Spread  thin  slices  of  bread  with  but- 

ter, and  pour  over  them  a  simple  custard,  viz. :  4  eggs 
to  1  qt.  of  milk,  4  tablespoons  sugar,  a  pinch  of  salt. 
Keep  pressed  down  till  the  custard  is  absorbed;  Bake 
slowly  till  firm  and  brown.  Eat  with  or  without 
sauce. 

The  bread  slices  may  be  spread  with 
with  fruit.         T   ,.  ;f. 

India  currants,  or  with  any  kind  of 

fresh  or  dried  cooked  fruit,  not  too  juicy, 
individual  bread      Cut  small  round  loaves  of  bread  into 
puddings.       quarters,  or  use  biscuits.     Soak   in   a 
mixture  of  4  eggs,  whites  and  yolks,  beaten  separate- 


112  Suet  Puddings. 

ly,  and  added  to  1  pt.  of  milk  with  a  little  sugar 
and  nutmeg.  When  they  have  absorbed  all  they 
will  without  breaking,  drain  and  bake  in  slow  oven 
to  a  nice  brown,  spreading  a  little  butter  over  once 
or  twice  at  the  last.  This  dish  can  be  made  very 
pretty  by  putting  currants  in  the  holes  around  the 
top  and  sticking  in  pieces  of  blanched  almonds. 

SUET   PUDDINGS. 

Ingredients.  J  pt.  beef  suet,  chopped  fine,  £  pt. 
molasses,  ^  pt.  milk,  -J  pt.  raisins  or  currants,  or  both. 
(A  part  of  the  fruit  may  be  figs  and  prunes  cut  in 
bits.)  1  teaspoon  salt,  1  teaspoon  soda  mixed  with 
the  molasses,  1  pt.  bread  crumbs  (dry),  1  pt.  graham 
flour  and  2  eggs.  Steam  3  hours  or  bake  2. 

Eat  with  a  lemon  sauce. 

Use  the  above  recipe,   omitting  the 

Simple.  ,        .         .  /    '          i  r, 

eggs  and  using  instead  of  graham  flour 
and  bread  crumbs  If  pt.  white  flour. 
TO  reheat  pud-        All  the  preceding  puddings  are  good 
dings.  reheated.     Cut  in  slices,  and  warm  in 

the  oven,  or  fry  in  a  little  butter  in  a  pan.  Sift  sugar 
over  and  eat  with  sauce. 

PUDDING    SAUCE. 

1  pt.  water  made  into  a  smooth  starch  with  a  heap- 
ing tablespoon  flour.  Cook  10  minutes,  strain  if  nec- 
essary, sweeten  to  taste  and  pour  it  on  1  tablespoon 
butter  and  juice  of  a  lemon  or  other  flavoring.  If 
lemon  is  not  used  add  1  tablespoon  vinegar. 

This  can  be  made  richer  by  using  more  butter  and 
sugar;  stir  them  to  a  cream  with  the  flavoring,  then 
add  the  starch. 


Fritters.  113 

FRITTERS. 

These  are  various  doughs  and  batters  fried  in  boil- 
ing fat,  and  eaten  warm  with  sugar  or  a  sweet  sauce. 
The  hot  fat  gives  a  puffy  lightness  and  a  delicious 
crisp  crust. 

Lard  is  most  generally  used,  but  cooking  oil  (see 
page  41)  is  better,  and  even  beef  fat  prepared  as  (see 
same  page)  is  good.  The  fat  must  be  smoking  hot  to 
prevent  its  soaking  into  the  dough.  For  the  same 
reason  batters  so  cooked  must  contain  more  egg  than 
if  they  were  to  be  baked. 

The  fritter  may  be  rolled  out  and  cut 

Forms.  , 

in  shapes,  or  dropped  in  spoonfuls  or 
run  through  a  funnel,  being,  of  course,  mixed  of  dif- 
ferent consistency  for  each  method.  When  nicely 
browned,  take  out  with  a  wire  spoon  and  lay  on  brown 
paper,  which  will  absorb  the  fat,  then  sprinkle  with 
sugar  and  send  to  table. 
Soda  raised  Ingredients.  1  pt.  flour  (-J  may  be 

fritters.  graham),  •£•  teaspoon  salt,  1  teaspoon  oil, 

butter,  or  lard,  1  egg  and  -J-  pt.  sour  milk  with  -J  tea- 
spoon soda,  or  same  of  sweet  milk  with  £  teaspoon  soda 
and  1  teaspoon  cream  of  tartar.  Beat  the  egg,  white 
and  yolk  separately,  adding  the  white  last  of  all. 

Drop  from  a  spoon  into  boiling  lard;  or,  omit  nearly 
half  the  flour  and  pour  through  a  funnel. 

This  batter  may  be  also  raised  with  yeast. 
Egg-  raised  These  are  more  crisp  and  delicate. 

fritters.  If  liked  very  light,  soda  or  cream  of 

tartar  or  baking  powder  may  be  added  to  these  also. 
These  batters  are  thinner  than  the  preceding;  they 
must  be  well  beaten  if  no  soda  is  used. 
10 


114  Fritters. 

1.  Ingredients.  1  scant  pt.  of  flour,  2  eggs,  1  tea- 
spoon salt,  -J  pt.  milk,  1  teaspoon  oil  or  butter. 

Beat  the  yolks  well,  then  again  well  with  the  flour 
and  milk,  add  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  last.  Fry  in 
spoonfuls. 

2.  Ingredients.  1  heaping  pt.  flour,  4  eggs,  1  table- 
spoon  oil   or  butter,  1  teaspoon  salt,  about  a  pint 
of  water,  or  enough  to  make  the  batter  a  little  thicker 
than  for  pancakes.     Proceed  as  before. 

1  tablespoon  of  lemon  juice  may  be 

Additions.  ,  ,    ,  «  A.       i  • 

added  to  any  of  the  above  recipes,  or  a 
little  nutmeg  or  cinnamon  if  liked. 

Fruit  fritters.  ^^   S°Ur   aPplGS'    Ped>  CUt   °Ut   the 

core  neatly  and  slice  round  in  slices  i 
in.  thick.  Soak  these  a  few  hours  in  sweetened  wine, 
lemon  juice  or  other  flavoring.  Dip  in  either  of  the 
above  batters  and  fry.  (They  are  also  very  good  with- 
out being  soaked  in  the  flavoring. ) 

Peaches,  pine  apples  and  bananas  may  be  used  in 
the  same  way. 

Trim  the  crust  from  sliced  bread,  cut 

Bread  fritters.  , 

in  nice  shapes  and  soak  soft,  but  not 
till  they  break,  in  a  cup  of  milk  to  which  has  been 
added  1  beaten  egg  and  some  flavoring,  as  cinnamon, 
lemon,  etc.  Dip  in  fritter  batter  and  fry. 


COOKING  OF  VEGETABLES. 


The  Legumes.          AS  we  have  seen,  the  food  value  of 
the  dried  bean,  pea  and  lentil,  is  great, 
but  as  usually  cooked  a  large  per  cent,  of  it  is  lost 
to  us. 

In  the  process  of  cooking,  the  cellulose  part  must 
be  broken  up,  softened,  and  as  much  as  possible 
entirely  removed.  These  vegetables,  if  they  cannot 
be  obtained  ground,  must  be  soaked  in  cold  water 
some  time  before  cooking,  cooked  till  very  soft  and 
then  mashed  and  sieved.  No  form  of  cooking  that 
does  not  include  sieving  can  be  recommended  except 
for  very  hardy  stomachs.  See  pages  55  and  117. 

This  vegetable  must  also  be  treated 
with  care.  The  starch  grains  of  which 
it  is  so  largely  composed  swell  in  the  process  of  cook- 
ing, and  burst  the  cellulose  walls  confining  them,  but 
when  this  stage  is  reached  the  potato  is  too  often 
spoiled  by  being  allowed  to  absorb  steam  and  become 
sodden.  As  soon  as  tender,  boiled  potatoes  should 
be  drained,  dried  out  a  few  moments,  then  sprinkled 
with  salt,  and  the  kettle  covered  close  with  a  towel, 
until  they  are  served.  They  should  then  be  put  into 
a  napkin  and  sent  to  the  table. 

Other  garden  vegetables  are  cooked 

Other  vegetables.  ,.,  &  ,    .     ,       ,     .,. 

more  or  less  alike;    put  into  boiling 
water  and  kept  at  a  rapid  boil  until  tender,  and  no 
115 


116  Cooking  of  Vegetables. 

longer, — the  length  of  time  varying  for  any  given 
vegetable  according  to  the  freshness,  size,  and  degree 
of  maturity.  When  done  or  nearly  so,  they  should 
be  seasoned  and  served  as  soon  as  possible. 

A  welcome  variety  in  the  serving  of 
8*  vegetables  can  be  found  in  skillful 
mixture  of  two  or  more  kinds.  A  few  of  these  mix- 
tures are,  green  corn  and  shelled  beans,  or  succotash, 
green  corn  and  tomatoes,  green  corn  with  stewed 
potatoes,  potatoes  and  turnips  mashed  together,  green 
peas  with  a  quarter  as  many  carrots  cut  very  small, 
potatoes  with  same  proportion  of  carrots  and  seasoned 
with  fried  sliced  onions  poured  over, 
vegetables  and  There  are  also  mixtures  of  vegetables 
fruits.  and  fruits  that  are  very  successful,  as 

lentils  or  beans  with  a  border  of  stewed  prunes. 


SOUPS  WITHOUT  MEAT. 


In  general  These  soups  should  be  largely  used  by 
the  economical  housewife;  they  are  cheap  and  nutri- 
tious, and  if  carefully  made  and  seasoned,  excellent 
in  taste.  A  large  number  of  recipes  are  given,  from 
which  can  be  selected  what  is  suited  to  materials  on 
hand,  to  amount  of  time  and  quantity  of  fire. 

These  will  be  arranged  under  Vegetable  Soups, 
Flour  and  Bread  Soups,  and  Cold  Soups. 

VEGETABLE   SOUPS. 

If  any  meat  bones  are  on  hand  or  trimmings  of 
meat  not  otherwise  needed,  simmer  them  from  one  to 
two  hours  in  water  and  use  the  broth  thus  obtained 
instead  of  water  in  making  any  of  the  following  soups. 

Most  important  are  those  made  from  the  dried  bean, 
pea  and  lentil,  the  three  pod-covered  vegetables.  For 
their  nutritive  qualities  see  page  81. 

Ingredients.     1  Ib.  beans,  1  onion,  2 
tablespoons  beef  fat,  salt  and  pepper. 

Additions,  to  be  made  according  to  taste.  J  Ib. 
pork,  or  a  ham  bone,  a  pinch  of  red  pepper,  or,  an 
hour  before  serving,  different  vegetables,  as  carrots 
and  turnips,  chopped  and  fried. 

Soak  the  beans  over  night  in  2  qts.  water.     In 
the  morning  pour  off,  put  on  fresh  water  and  cook 
117 


118  Vegetable  Soups. 

with  the  onion  and  fat  till  very  soft,  then  mash  or 
press  through  a  cullender  to  remove  the  skins,  and 
add  enough  water  to  make  2  qts.  of  somewhat  thick 
soup.  Season. 

This  soup  may  also  be  made  from  cold  baked  beans. 
Boil  i  hr.,  or  till  they  fall  to  pieces,  then  strain  and 
season. 


SOUP* 

Lentil  soup.  Make  like  bean  soup. 

The  water  in  which  vegetables  have 
Green  vegetable  been  cooked  should  never  be  thrown 
away,  with  the  exception  of  that  used 
for  cooking  beets,  and  potatoes  boiled  without  peeling; 
even  cabbage  water  can  be  made  the  basis  of  a  good 
soup. 

General  method.     Boil  the  vegetables  until  very 
tender,  mash  or  press  through  a  cullender,  thin  suffi- 
ciently and  season. 
Potato  soup.        Good  and  cheap. 

Ingredients.  6  large  potatoes  peeled,  1  large  onion, 
1  heaping  teaspoon  salt,  £  teaspoon  pepper.  For  a 
richer  soup  add  J-  Ib.  salt  pork  cut  in  bits  (in  this 
case  put  in  less  salt)  or  add  1  cup  of  milk  or  a  beaten 
egg.  Chopped  celery  leaves  give  a  good  flavor. 

Boil  potatoes,  onions  and  salt  in  a  little  water, 
and  when  very  soft  mash  ;  then  add,  a  little  at 
a  time  and  stirring  to  keep  it  smooth,  a  qt.  of  hot 
water  and  1  tablespoon  beef  fat  in  which  1  tablespoon 
flour  has  been  cooked  ;  or  use  the  fat  for  frying  bread 
dice,  which  add  at  the  last  minute. 

Most  cooks  fry  the  sliced  onion  before  putting  it 
in  the  soup,  but  the  difference  in  taste  is  so  slight  as 


Vegetable  Soups.  119 

not  to  be  worth  the  few  minutes  extra  time,  if  time  is 

an  object. 

This  is  a  delicious  soup  and  very  nutri- 
tious.    Large  peas,  a  little  too  hard  to 
be  used  as  a  vegetable,  may  be  utilized  in  its  manu- 
facture. 

Ingredients.  1  pt.  shelled  peas,  3  pts.  water,  1 
small  onion,  1  tablespoon  butter  or  fat,  1  tablespoon 
flour.  Salt  and  pepper. 

Put  peas  and  onion  in  boiling  water  and  cook  -J  an 
hour  to  an  hour,  till  very  soft.  Press  through  cul- 
lender and  season. 

Pea  and  tomato        Add  to  above  when  done,  1  pt.  stewed 
soup.  tomatoes  and  a  little  more  seasoning. 

This  is  an  excellent  soup,  having  the  nutrition  of  the 
pea  and  the  flavor  of  the  tomato. 

Valuable  for  its  fine  flavor,  and  may 

Tomato  soup.        ,  n  ,    ...  ,      ,         ,  ,.        ,       . , 

be  made  nutritious  also  by  adding  broth, 
milk  or  eggs, 

Ingredients.  1  pt.  tomatoes,  2  pts.  water,  1  table- 
spoon fat,  1  tablespoon  flour,  salt  and  pepper. 

Cook  the  flour  in  the  fat,  add  the  peeled  tomatoes 
and  a  very  little  water.     When  they  have  cooked  to 
pieces,  mash  them  against  the  side  of  the  pot,  add 
the  rest  of  the  water  and  the  seasoning. 
Tomato  soup  Proceed  as  above,  using  instead  of  half 

NO.  2.  the  water,  1  pt.  of  milk,  into  which  £ 

tea  spoon  soda  has  been  stirred. 

Ingredients.     1  pt.  of  parsnips  cut  in 

Parsnip  soup.  .  ,,  „ 

pieces,  3  small  potatoes,  3  pts.  water, 
or  water  and  milk,  salt,  pepper  and  butter. 
Cook  till  the  vegetables  fall  to  pieces,  mash  and  add 


120  Vegetable  Soups. 

seasoning.  If  milk  can  be  substituted  for  part  of  the 
water  the  soup  will  be  improved. 
Young  vegetable  Ingredients.  I  pt.  chopped  onion, 
or  spring  soup,  carrot,  turnips  and  celery  root  in  about 
equal  parts,  1  tablespoon  fat,  1  teaspoon  sugar,  salt 
and  pepper. 

Heat  the  fat,  add  sugar,  salt  and  pepper,  then  stir 
the  vegetables  in  it  till  they  begin  to  brown,  add  3 
pts.  water  and  set  back  to  simmer  1  to  2  hours.  Serve 
without  straining. 

Ingredients.     %  doz.  ears  green  corn, 

Green  corn  soup.  0       ,  -.,11  ,.   ,  -i 

3  pts.  water,  1  tablespoon  fat  and  1 
tablespoon  flour  salt  and  pepper,  an  egg  and  a  cup  of 
milk. 

Cut  the  corn  from  the  cob  and  boil  one  hour.  Add 
the  flour  which  has  been  fried  in  the  fat,  season  and 
strain. 

Make  as  above,    using   dried  corn, 
?*  soaked  over  night  and  boiled  2  hours. 
Sorrel  soup.  An  excellent  flavor,  new  to  most  of  us. 

Ingredients.  1  pt.  sheep's  sorrel,  light  measure 
(bought  in  city  markets,  or  gathered  in  country 
fields),  1  onion,  a  few  leaves  of  lettuce  and  parsley 
all  chopped  fine,  ^  teaspoon  nutmeg,  1  tablespoon 
fat,  2  tablespoons  flour,  3  pts.  water,  1  or  2  eggs,  1  cup 
milk,  salt  and  pepper. 

Heat  the  fat,  add  the  chopped  vegetables  and  sweat 
or  steam  for  10  minutes,  then  add  flour  and  last  the 
boiling  water;  add  the  milk  just  before  serving. 
Serve  fried  bread  with  it. 

"Hit  and  MISS"       T°  illustrate  how  all   bits   can   be 
soup.          used,  here  is  a  soup  actually  made  from 
"leavings." 


Flour  and  Bread  Soups.  121 

1  cup  water  drained  from  macaroni,  1  cup  water 
drained  from  cabbage,  with  a  few  shreds  of  the  cab- 
bage, 2  small  bones  from  roast  veal,  1  scant  tablespoon 
boiled  rice.  Simmer  these  together  with  a  chopped 
onion  while  the  rest  of  the  dinner  is  cooking,  thicken 
with  a  little  flour  and  serve  with  fried  bread. 

FLOUR   AND   BREAD    SOUPS. 

Flour  soup.  Ingredients.  1  tablespoon  beef  fat,  1 
heaping  tablespoon  flour,  2  sliced  onions,  2  pts.  water, 
1  pt.  milk,  1  cupful  of  mashed  potato,  salt  and  pepper. 

Fry  the  onions  in  the  fat  until  light  brown;  remove, 
pressing  out  the  fat.  In  same  fat  now  cook  the  flour 
till  it  is  yellow,  and  add,  a  little  at  a  time,  the  water. 
Put  back  the  onions  and  let  it  stand  awhile,  then 
add  milk  and  potato.  Salt  well. 

The  potato  may  be  omitted  and  a  little  more  flour 
used. 
Browned  Flour        Ingredients.     I  tablespoon  butter  or 

SOUP-  fat,  -J  cup  flour,  2  pts.  water,  1  pt.  milk, 

1  teaspoon  salt. 

Cook  the  flour  brown  in  the  fat  over  a  slow  fire  or 
in  the  oven;  add  slowly  the  water  and  other  ingredi- 
ents. Serve  with  fried  bread. 

Browned^Farina  Make  like  above,  but  of  wheat  farina. 
Bread  soup.  Ingredients.  Dry  bread,  broken  in  bits, 
water,  salt  and  pepper,  an  onion  and  a  little  fat. 

Soak  the  bread  in  boiling  water  for  a  few  minutes, 
add  the  onion  sliced  and  fried  in  the  fat;  salt  and 
pepper  well. 

Or,  use  milk  instead  of  water,  and  toasted  or  fried 
bread. 

11 


Milk  Soups. 
Noodle  Soup.  (See  page  91. ) 

MILK   SOUPS   OR   PORRIDGES. 

These  are  especially  good  in  families  where  there 
are  children,  and  would  be  welcome  on  almost  any 
supper  table.  They  are  almost  equally  good  eaten 
cold. 

In  making,  use  a  porcelain  kettle  or  an  iron  kettle, 
greasing  it  first  with  a  little  fat,  as  a  scorched  taste 
spoils  the  dish. 

Wheat  Porridge       Ingredients.     3  pts.    milk,   1  pt.  of 
(salted. )       water  (  or  half  water  and  half  milk),  £ 
cup  flour,  2  eggs,  2  teaspoons  salt. 

To  the  boiling  milk  and  water,  add  the  flour  stirred 
smooth  with  a  little  cold  milk;  let  it  cook  10  minutes. 
Beat  the  eggs  in  gradually,  but  do  not  cook  them ; 
serve  with  fried  bread.  Grated  cheese  is  an  addition 
to  this  soup. 

wheat  Porridge  Same  as  above,  but  using  only  a  pinch 
(sweet.)  Of  gait?  and  as  flavoring  3  tablespoons 
sugar  and  \  teaspoon  cinnamon.  The  flavor  may  be 
varied  by  using  grated  lemon  peel,  nutmeg,  vanilla, 
bitter  almond  or  2  fresh  peach  leaves  boiled  with  the 
milk. 

Of  Farina  These  two  porridges  are  still  better 

made  of  farina  instead  of  flour. 

Barley  Porridge.        Pearl   barley  ls  S0aked  OV6r  night  in 

water,  and  then  cooked  for  2  hours  till 
soft.  During  the  last  hour  add  milk  instead  of 
water,  as  it  dries  away.  Flavor  with  salt  and  butter. 
Indian  Meal  Ingredients.  I  cup  meal,  2  qts.  water, 

Porridge.  i  tablespoon  flour,  1  pt.  milk,  salt,  and 

a  little  ginger  (if  liked).     Boil  the  meal  and  water 


Milk  Soups.  123 

an  hour;  add  flour  and  salt  and  boil  £  hour,  and  add 

the  milk  just  before  serving. 

Oatmeal  Make  in  the  same  way,  using  oat- 

Porridge.     mea]  instead  of  flour. 

Graham  1  cup  graham  flour  to  3  pts.  milk  and 

porridge.     water.     Cook  15  minutes.     This  may 
be  varied  in  flavor  like  flour  porridge. 

These  three  Porridges  can  be  made  from  cold  corn, 
oatmeal  or  graham  mush. 

Ingredients.     %  Ib.  chocolate,  2%  qts. 

Chocolate  Soup.         .„  , 

milk  and  water,  sugar  to  taste,  1  egg 
yolk,  a  little  vanilla  or  cinnamon. 

Cook  the  chocolate  soft  in  a  little  water  and  add 
the  rest;  when  boiling  put  in  the  other  ingredients 
and  cook  the  beaten  white  of  an  egg  in  spoonfuls  on 
the  top.     Serve  with  fried  bread. 
Buttermilk  Soup      The  foreign  kitchen  has  many  recipes 

or  "  Pop."  f  or  this  soup  quite  unknown  among  us. 
Cooking  brings  out  the  acid,  but  once  used  to  that 
taste,  one  finds  the  soup  good  and  wholesome. 

Ingredients.  To  each  pt.  of  buttermilk,  1  table- 
spoon flour  and  1  tablespoon  butter,  a  little  salt. 

Bring  gradually  to  a  boil,  stirring  constantly  to  pre- 
vent curdling,  and  pour  on  fried  bread. 

Varieties.  Sugar  and  cinnamon  are  often  added 
to  this  soup;  also  the  yolk  and  beaten  white  of  1  egg. 
It  is  considered  nutritious  for  the  sick. 

Another.  The  Germans  often  add  to  this  soup 
small  potatoes,  and  bits  of  fried  bacon.  In  which 
case  the  butter  is  omitted. 

Or  to  the  buttermilk  soup  when  done,  is  added 
half  the  quantity  of  cooked  pears  or  prunes. 


124  fruit  Soup$. 

Brewis.  To  salted    boiling  milk,   put  enough 

bread  crumbs  (either  white  or  graham)  to  make  a 
thick  smooth  porridge. 

This  soup  is  earnestly  recommended 

Sour  Cream  Soup.  „       i  • .  -i  .        .  i  ,.  •          L  • '  i 

for  trial,  as  there  are  few  ways  in  which 
such  a  delicious  taste  may  be  given  to  simple  materails. 
Ingredients.  3  pts.  water,  -J  cup  sour  cream  and  the 
following  mixture:  £  cup  milk,  £  cup  flour,  1  teaspoon 
butter,  £  tablespoon  salt,  1  teaspoon  sugar,  1  egg, 
1  tablespoon  fluid  yeast  or  £  teaspoon  compressed 
yeast.  Mix  these  together  into  a  dough  and  let  it 
get  light,  then  drop  half  of  it  in  teaspoonfuls  into 
the  boiling  water  and  cream;  then  thin  the  rest  with 
water  until  it  will  pour,  add  it  to  the  soup  and  cook 
5  minutes.  (Not  all  the  dough  may  be  needed.) 

Ingredients.     1  pt.  cider  just  begin- 

Cidersoup.  .       y,  ,      , 

nmg  to  work,  1  pt.  water,  1  cup  milk 
(boiling),  1  tablespoon  flour,  a  little  cinnamon  and 
sugar. 

Let  cider  and  water  come  to  a  boil,  add  the  flour  rub- 
bed smooth,  and  cook  a  few  minutes;  and  lastly  add 
the  milk.  Serve  with  toast.  An  egg  yolk  may  be 
added. 

FRUIT  SOUPS. 

To  be  eaten  Warm  or  Cold 

These  are  made  of  almost  any  well  flavored  fruit, 
cooked  soft  and  mashed,  sufficient  water  added,  with 
a  little  thickening,  sugar  and  spice.  They  are  espe- 
cially welcome  in  summer;  may  be  eaten  as  a  first 
course,  or  set  aside  to  be  used  as  a  drink  during  the 
meal. 


Fruit  Soups.  125 

Ingredients.     4  cups  peeled  and  quar- 

Apple  soup,  No.  1.  ,    \ 

tered  apples,  cooked  to  a  mush  in  a 
little  water,  1^  pts.  water,  1  teaspoon  cornstarch,  3 
teaspoons  sugar,  £  teaspoon  cinnamon,  a  pinch  of  salt. 
NO.  2.  A  soup  plate  full  apples,  1  cup  of  rice. 

Cook  soft  and  rub  through  a  sieve,  adding  a  little 
sugar,  cinnamon,  lemon  peel,  and  an  egg  yolk.  Thin 
sufficiently  with  water. 

NO.  3.  Instead  of  rice,  use  in  the  above  recipe 

bread  with  the  addition  of  a  few  India  currants. 
NO.  4.    ,»  Instead  of  rice,  use  oatmeal  and  cook 

till  soft,  or  use  that  already  cooked. 

Make  like    apple  soup,   but  if  the 

Plum  Soup.  aj         irtii 

plums  are  very  sour  add  a  little  soda, 
— J  teaspoon  to  a  qt.  of  soup, 
cherry  Soup.       Made  in  the  same  manner. 

These  soups  may  also  be  made  of  dried  plums,  prunes 
or  dried  sour  cherries.    Soak  the  fruit  over  night. 
Soups  of  Pears,        If  soup  is  made  of  a  milder  fruit,  as 
etc-  pears,  which   are   at   some   seasons  so 

cheap,  add  a  few  sour  apples  or  more  spice,  to  give 
flavor. 


ADDITIONS  TO   SOUPS. 


If  your  soup  has  not  strength  enough,  milk  and 
eggs  may  be  added  if  no  meat  stock  is  at  hand. 

The  egg  should  be  beaten,  mixed  with 

How  to  add  eggs.       •,•,,-,        *  n  ,-,  T -i     -i    i      n 

a  little  of  the  soup,  then  added  to  the 
rest,  but  not  boiled.  The  yolk  is  better  for  this  pur- 
pose than  the  white. 

Liebig's  meat  extract  is  very  valuable 

Meat  Extract.        .          -.  , .         n  ,      .   . .    . 

for  adding  flavor  to  a  soup  but  it  is  too 
expensive  for  general  use. 

This  may  be  boiled  a  few  minutes 
with  the  soup  after  being  mixed  smooth 
in  a  little  water,  or  better,  cook  it  in  a  little  butter  or 
melted  beef  fat  before  adding  to  the  soup. 

On  baking  day,  save  a  little  of  the 

2.  Bread  Sponge.  ,  J'  , ,  .  , 

bread  sponge,  make  thin  enough  to 
pour,  and  if  you  wish,  add  a  beaten  egg.  Set  away 
half  an  hour  to  rise  again,  and  when  light  pour  into 
the  soup. 

This  preparation  of  wheat,  now  sold 

3.  Farina.  ,         ,  , , 

by  the  pound  at  a  reasonable  price,  is 
most  valuable  as  an  addition  to  soup ;  it  needs  only 
to  be  sprinkled  in  and  boiled  for  a  few  moments. 

Mashed  potato  mixed  smooth  with  a 

4.  Potato.  T,,I  "i-i  ,     t        in 

little  milk  or  grated  cold  potato  may 
be  added  to  soup  to  give  body. 
W 


Additions  to  Soups.  127 

5.  Barley.  Add  to  the  soup  1  hour  before  it  is  done 

pearl  barley  that  has  been  soaked  over  night. 

One-half  hour  before  serving,  add  to 

soup  1  tablespoon  of  rice  to  a  quart  of  soup. 

Bits  of  bread  dried  hard  in  the  oven, 

may  be   added  to  the  soup  just  before 

serving,  or  fry  them  in  the  spider  in  a  little  beef  fat, 

or  soak  in  milk  and  egg  before  frying.     Or,  toast 

bread  and  cut  in  squares. 

Any  small  vegetables  may  be  added, 

8.  Vegetables.  ,  , . 

such  as  asparagus  tops,  tiny  onions 
that  have  been  first  boiled  in  another  pot,  cooked 
peas,  beans,  etc.  A  favorite  Kussian  soup  is  beef 
soup,  with  the  addition  of  beets,  cabbage  and  carrots. 
Most  important  of  all  additions  to  soup  are  those 
which  need  a  little  more  time  to  prepare,  but  are 
worth  the  trouble  if  the  soup  is  to  be  the  principal 
part  of  the  dinner.  Such  are  the  following: 

DUMPLINGS   FOR   SOUPS   AND   STEWS. 

This  word  has  an  unpleasant  sound,  too  suggestive 
of  the  heavy  and  unwholesome  balls  often  served 
under  this  name,  but  there  seems  to  be  no  other  name 
under  which  these  different  preparations  can  be 
classed.  Their  basis  is  bread  and  eggs,  or  flour  and 
eggs. 

Bread  mentioned  here  is  hard  dried  bread ;  it  must 

be  softened  by  soaking  in  cold  water  ( hot  water  makes 

it  pasty),  then  press  it  dry  in  a  cloth  and  crumble  it. 

Any  cooked  meat  or  several  different 

kinds  when  there  is  too  little  of  each 

to  be  otherwise  used,  is  chopped  fine  and  mixed  with 


128  Dumvlings  for  Soups  and  Stews. 

as  much  bread,  salted  and  peppered,  a  little  chopped 
suet  or  butter,  or  better  still,  marrow,  and  a  chopped 
onion  and  some  herbs,  and  to  each  cup  of  this  mix- 
ture allow  an  egg.  Mix  lightly,  make  out  into  little 
balls  and  cook  in  very  gently  boiling  soup.  Try  one 
first  to  see  if  it  holds  together.  If  not,  add  a  little 
flour. 

Substitute  for  the  meat  any  cooked 

Fish  balls.  „  ,        ,  ,   „  J 

fish,  chopped  fine. 

Two  eggs  to  1  cup  of  bread  and  mar- 
Marrow  balls.  °  ,  n       ,  _ 

row  size  of  an  egg,  chopped.     Make  as 

above. 
Instead    of    marrow,    add   cubes    of 

Bacon  Balls.          ,  ,.  .    ,  , 

bacon  fried  brown. 

All  these  mixtures  can  also  be  fried  in  a  pan  as  an 
omelette,  or  baked. 

Flour  and  Bread  Three  cups,  half  bread,  half  flour,  1 
Bails.  egg?  butter  size  of  an  egg,  1  cup  milk 
and  water,  salt.  Soak  the  bread  in  the  milk  and 
water,  and  make  out  into  little  balls  with  the  other  in- 
gredients. Cook,  covered,  15  minutes  (may  also  be 
boiled  in  salted  water  and  eaten  with  fruit ). 

One  egg,  1  teaspoon  flour,  a  little 

Egg  Sponge.  i«,        *  . 

salt.  Beat  white  of  egg  to  foam,  mix 
lightly  with  the  rest  and  pour  on  top  of  the  soup. 
Turn  over  in  a  few  minutes  with  a  skimmer,  and  be- 
fore putting  into  the  turreen,  cut  it  in  pieces. 

No.  2.  1  heaping  tablespoon  flour  to  1  egg  and  the 
yolk  of  another,  and  1  teaspoon  butter.  Beat  hard 
and  drop  in  with  a  teaspoon. 

Schwaben  spet-        One  egg,  3  tablespoons  milk,  nearly 
zel-  \  cup  of  flour,  salt,     Pour  through  a 


Dumplings  for  Soups  and  Stews.  129 

funnel  into  soup  or  into  salted  water,  cook  5  min- 
utes and  use  to  garnish  beef. 

Biscuit  Dough         An  excellent  addition  to  a  stew  or 

Bails.  soup  is  of  biscuit  or  rusk  dough  ( see 

page  98),  made  into  balls  no  larger  than  a  chestnut, 

and  cooked  in  the  stew,  or  steamed  in  a  cloth  above 

it. 

Also  the  following  of  buttermilk:  1 

Buttermilk  Balls.  ,      .  .  .,,        ,     .'  .         -, 

cup  buttermilk,  ^  teaspoon  of  soda,  1 
egg,  salt,  and  flour  enough  to  allow  of  the  batter 
being  dropped  in  spoonfuls. 

Cooked  macaroni  cut  in  pieces   an 

Macaroni.  •      i    i  •  i  »      i  T,  •       i 

inch  long,  is  a  pleasant  addition  to  soup. 


FLAVOES   OE   SEASONINGS. 


Without  doubt  "hunger  is  the  best  sauce/'  but  it 
is  not  true,  as  many  think,  that  a  craving  for  variety 
is  the  sign  of  a  pampered  and  unnatural  appetite; 
even  animals,  whom  we  cannot  accuse  of  having 
"notions,"  have  been  known  to  starve  in  the  exper- 
imenter's hands  rather  than  eat  a  perfectly  nutri- 
tious food  of  whose  flavor  they  had  wearied,  and  pris- 
oners become  so  tired  of  a  too  oft  repeated  dish  that 
they  vomit  at  the  sight  and  smell  of  it. 

What  we  call  flavors  may  or  may  not  be  associated 
with  a  real  food.  Meats  are  rich  in  flavors  and  each 
fruit  has  its  peculiar  taste;  then,  there  are  the  spices 
and  aromatic  herbs  which  are  not  parts  of  a  real  food, 
and  it  is  most  important  that  the  cook  should  under- 
stand the  art  of  adding  these  as  seasonings  to  mild  tast- 
ing foods,  so  as  to  make  new  dishes  which  shall  be  both 
nutritious  and  appetizing.  The  bulk  of  our  nourish- 
ment must  be  made  up  of  the  flesh  of  a  few  animals, 
a  half-dozen  grains  and  as  many  garden  vegetables, 
but  the  skillful  cook  can  make  of  them,  with  the 
help  of  other  flavors,  an  endless  variety  of  dishes. 

An  American  traveling  on  the  continent  of  Europe 

becomes  acquainted  with  many  new  dishes  and  tastes, 

and  although  not  all  of  them  are  to  his  liking,  he 

must  conclude  that  our  cookery,  compared   for  in- 

130 


Flavorings.  131 

stance,  with»that  of  the  French,  is  very  monotonous. 
To  be  sure,  we  have  the  advantage  of  the  European 
in  that  our  markets  offer  us  a  greater  variety  of  nat- 
ural foods>  especially  fruits,  each  having  a  flavor  of 
its  own,  and  this  fact  makes  us  somewhat  more  inde- 
pendent of  the  art  of  the  cook;  but  still  we  have  need 
for  every  lesson  of  this  sort,  and  especially  is  this  the 
case  with  the  poor,  who  must  keep  to  the  cheapest 
food  materials,  which  are  not  in  themselves  rich  in 
flavor. 

Spices  and  other  flavors,  when  not  used  to  excess, 
stimulate  our  digestive  organs  to  appropriate  more 
easily  the  food  to  which  they  are  added;  their  agree- 
able odor  starts  the  digestive  juices,  both  in  the 
mouth  and  in  the  stomach,  and  their  flavor  acting 
on  the  palate  has  the  same  effect. 

The  more  common  spices  and  flavors,  as  the  house- 
wife uses  these  terms,  are  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  cin- 
namon and  mace,  nutmegs,  cloves,  ginger,  caraway 
and  coriander  seeds,  vanilla,  and  many  volatile  oils, 
such  as  those  contained  in  the  rind  of  lemons  and 
oranges;  and  to  this  list  we  must  add  certain  vegeta- 
bles, as  the  horseradish  and  various  members  of  the 
onion  family,  the  caper  and  nasturtium  seeds,  and  the 
aromatic  herbs. 

All  these  have  their  use  and  their  abuse.  Salt  is 
hardly  thought  of  in  this  list,  so  necessary  do  we  con- 
sider it,  and  its  use  is  well  enough  governed  by  our 
palate,  though  no  doubt  we  over,  rather  than  under 
salt  our  foods.  Pepper  is  also  in  nearly  every  house- 
hold used  to  excess,  being  added  to  too  many  dishes. 
The  pungent  mustard  should  be  still  more  carefully 


132  Flavorings. 

used;  but  a  little  of  it  adds  relish  to  a  salad  or  a  meat 
sauce,  and  goes  especially  well  with  certain  vegetables, 
as  beans.  Cinnamon,  mace  and  nutmeg,  we  use  prin- 
cipally with  sweet  dishes,  but  nutmeg  makes  a  nice 
variety  in  certain  meat  stews  and  in  croquettes; 
foreign  cooks  use  it  far  too  much  to  suit  our  taste. 
Almost  our  only  use  of  the  caraway  and  coriander 
seeds  is  in  cookies ;  try  the  former  in  a  potato  soup 
for  variety.  Ginger  seems  to  go  well  with  Indian 
meal  in  a  pudding  or  porridge,  and  with  molasses, 
wherever  used.  , 

To  give  the  uses  for  onions  and  for  the  aromatic 
herbs  would  be  too  long  a  task.  The  latter  can  all  be 
bought  in  a  dried  state  very  cheaply,  and  they  retain 
their  flavor  well;  one  of  the  most  useful,  however, 
parsley,  is  much  better  fresh ;  by  all  means  keep  a 
little  box  of  it  growing  in  a  window.  Perhaps,  after 
onion,  celery  is  most  useful  as  a  flavor  for  soups  and 
stews,  root,  stem,  leaves  and  seeds  being  all  valuable. 

In  the  flavoring  of  soups  and  stews,  it  is  well  to  use 
a  number  of  flavors,  letting  no  one  of  them  be  promi- 
nent above  the  others ;  on  the  other  hand,  it  is  well 
to  have  certain  favorite  dishes  seasoned  always  in  the 
same  way ;  as  fresh  pork  with  sage;  summer  savory 
in  a  bread  dressing,  etc. 


DBIKKS  AT  MEALS. 


A  warm  drink  at  meals  is  better  than  a  cold  one,  es- 
pecially in  winter  or  at  any  time  when  we  are  tired;  and 
the  drinking  of  ice  water  cannot  be  too  strongly  con- 
demned, lowering  as  it  does  the  temperature  of  the 
stomach  and  so  delaying  digestion.  To  furnish  warm 
drinks  for  each  meal,  acceptable  to  the  palate,  cheap 
and  harmless,  is  no  easy  question.  Soups  or  broth 
once  adopted  as  a  part  of  two  meals  in  the  day,  as  is 
so  frequently  seen  in  Europe,  and  the  problem  is  half 
solved;  indeed  some  of  the  drinks  here  given  are  really 
thin  vegetable  soups  or  porridges  to  which  the  flavor 
of  salt  or  of  sugar  may  be  given  according  to  taste. 

It  may  be  concluded,  after  comparing 
authors  on  the  subject,  that  although 
coffee  somewhat  retards  digestion  and  acts  as  a  stimu- 
lant to  the  nervous  system,  still  one  or  even  two  cups 
of  moderately  strong  coffee  a  day  will  not  harm  a 
healthy  person.  We  may  say,  therefore,  that  its  use 
to  this  extent  is  a  question  of  expense  only. 

Java  and  Mocha  coffee  in  equal  parts  are  considered 
the  best  mixture.  Rio  is  much  cheaper,  and  of  strong, 
pure  flavor.  The  amount  to  be  used  for  moderately 
strong  coffee  is  1  tablespoon  ( ground)  to  a  cup. 

Chicory  is  considered  here  only  as  an  adulterant, 
whereas  in  Europe  a  very  little  of  it,  say  -J  teaspoon  of 

133 


134  Coffee  and  Tea. 

the  prepared  chicory  to  a  cup  of  ground  coffee,  is 
used  to  improve  the  flavor. 

Next  to  the  quality  of  the  coffee,  it  is  of  importance 
that  it  should  be  freshly  ground  and  browned.  If 
you  buy  it  browned,  reheat  it  first  before  grinding. 
The  easiest  and  most  economical  way  of  making  is  to 
grind  it  very  fine  and  put  into  a  bag  made  of  woven 
stuff,  a  white  stocking  top  will  do ;  leave  room  to 
swell.  Heat  this  in  your  coffee  pot  as  hot  as  you  can 
without  burning.  Pour  on  boiling  water  and  keep  it 
hot  and  close-covered  for  15  or  20  minutes. 

Boiling  coffee  increases  its  strength,  but  does  not 
improve  its  flavor. 

All  authors  agree  as  to  the  harmful- 
Tea.  ,    . 

ness  of  strong  tea,  taken  to  excess. 

Take  great  pains  in  making  tea.  Use  an  earthen 
teapot,  and  have  a  tea  cozy  or  a  large  flannel  cloth  to 
wrap  it  in. 

The  water  used  should  be  between  hard  and  soft, 
extracting  the  aroma  but  not  the  astringency;  in 
China  river  water  is  used.  If  hard  water  must  be 
used,  remember  that  boiling  increases  its  hardness 
and  that  it  should  be  used  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the 
boiling  point. 

Take  1  teaspoonful  of  tea  to  a  cup,  put  it  in  the  teapot 
and  heat  in  an  oven  till  hot,  pour  on  1  cup  of  water 
that  has  just  come  to  a  boil,  and  cover  with  the  tea 
cozy.  Let  it  stand  5  minutes,  then  fill  up  with  the 
requisite  quantity  of  hot  water  and  serve  immediately, 
cocoa  and  choco-  These  both  contain  a  good  deal  of 
late.  nourishment,  and  as  drinks  are  con- 
sidered rather  heavy.  As  the  various  kinds  differ 


Gruels.  1^5 

very  much  from  each  other,  they  are  best  prepared 
according  to  the  recipes  found  on  the  packages. 

Milk,  except  for  children,  can  hardly 

"  Cambric  Tea."    11in  -i   •    i     i     ^   TT    j_   j 

be  looked  upon  as  a  drink,  but  diluted 
with  hot  water,  and  sweetened,  it  has  already  been 
christened  for  the  children  as  "cambric  tea,"  and  it 
is  no  bad  drink  for  their  elders. 

A  very  thin  gruel,  slightly  sweetened, 

Gruels.  .  -.    ,    .    , 

is  a  good  drink. 

Oatmeal  gruel.  jnto  a  qt.  of  boiling  water  stir  2  table- 
spoons oatmeal;  boil  for  an  hour  or  longer,  strain 
through  a  coarse  sieve  or  a  cullender,  add  a  pinch  of 
salt,  and  a  little  milk  and  sugar. 

Wet  1  tablespoon  rice  flour  in  a  little 

cold  milk,  put  into  1  qt.  boiling  water, 
salt  slightly  and  boil  till  transparent.  Flavor  with  a 
little  lemon  peel  and  sugar. 

1   qt.    boiling  water,   3   tablespoons 

Cornmeal  gruel.  ,  °    ,    .  , 

corn  meal  washed  in  several  waters,  % 
teaspoon  salt ;  add  -J  cup  milk  and  a  little  sugar ; —  a 
pinch  of  ginger  is  an  improvement. 

Soak  pearl  or  ground  barley  all  night 

Barley  gruel.  ,      \  j    •       ij 

or  a  lew  hours  in  cold  water,  put  into 
boiling  water  and  cook  till  very  soft.  Season  like  the 
others. 

8ag°  SiS?  ploca     Can  be  made  in  the  same  way. 
All  these  drinks  must  be  thin  and  not  too  highly 

seasoned. 

Brown    common   field   corn   as  you 

would  coffee,  as  brown  as  you  can  without 

burning.     Grind  coarsely  and  steep  like  coffee.     Add 

milk  and  sugar,  and  you  will  find  it  a  delicious  drink. 


136  Summer  Drink*. 

Cold  drinks  in  Lemonade  is  too  strongly  acid  for  a 
Summer.  regular  drink  at  meals,  but  lemon  as  a 

flavor  is  always  welcome. 

Irish  moss  lemon-  Wash  a  handful  of  Irish  moss  in  5 
ade.  waters,  pour  over  it  2  qts.  boiling  water 

and  let  it  stand  till  cold.     Strain,  adding  more  water 

if  necessary  and  add  the  juice  of  2  lemons  and  sweeten 

with  lump  sugar  which  you  have  rubbed  on  the  lemons 

to  obtain  the  oil  in  the  skin. 

Soda  cream  *   ^'    SU&ar>    *    OZ*    tartaric  aci(i  dis- 

solved  in  a  pt.  of  hot  water.  When 
cold  flavor  with  lemon  zest  or  extract,  and  add  the 
beaten  white  of  an  egg.  When  used,  add  2  table- 
spoons of  it  to  a  glass  of  water  in  which  you  have 
dissolved  i  teaspoon  soda. 

Slice  juicy  sour  apples  into  boiling 

Apple  water.  J,  ,  J 

water  and  keep  warm  an  hour.  Strain 
and  sweeten.  All  these  drinks  taste  best  cooled  (but 
not  too  cold)  with  ice. 

Sweet  cider  can  be  bottled  for  use 
and  makes  a  delicious  drink.  Boil  and 
skim  till  it  is  clear — no  longer;  pour  hot  into  bottles, 
and  seal. 

See  also  vegetable  and  fruit  soups. 


COOKEEY  FOE  THE  SICK 


It  is  comparatively  easy  for  your  family  to  live  on  a 
small  income  while  all  its  members  are  in  good  health, 
but  you  will  find  your  resources  all  too  slender  when 
you  must  cater  for  the  appetite  of  an  invalid. 

At  best,  sickness  is  always  a  severe  drain  on  the 
limited  income,  but  here,  as  in  every  other  depart- 
ment of  your  work,  you  will  find  that  good  sense  and 
ingenuity  will  often  stand  you  in  stead  for  money. 

During  a  severe  illness  the  food  as  much  as  the 
medicine  is  under  the  care  of  the  physician,  but  when 
the  danger  is  over  and  he  has  left  you  with  only  gen- 
eral directions,  you  will  be  more  than  likely  in 
your  bewilderment  to  take  the  advice  of  the  first 
neighbor  that  drops  in,  although  you  may  know  that 
neither  her  judgment  nor  experience  is  as  good  as 
your  own. 

Now  consider  first,  what  did  the  doctor  mean  by 
saying  that  the  patient  must  be  "  built  up,"  and  how 
is  the  wasted  frame  to  get  back  the  fat  and  muscle 
that  were  burned  away  in  the  sickness?  Chiefly,  as 
you  know,  by  the  digestion  of  food,  the  proteids  and 
fats  and  carbohydrates  that  we  have  been  talking 
about,  and  still  another,  a  real  food  although  so  often 
forgotten,  the  oxygen  of  the  air. 

We  have  said  that  we  need  not  concern  ourselves 
about  this  food,  that  it  would  take  care  of  itself;  and 
so  it  will  when  we  are  in  a  state  of  health  and  living 

137 


138  Cookery  for  the  Sick. 

as  human  beings  should,  for  as  we  walk  or  work  we 
are  fed  by  the  air  without  knowing  it.  But  the  case 
is  quite  different  with  a  poor  invalid  shut  up  in  a  sick 
room,  we  must  bring  the  fresh  air  to  him  with  as 
much  care  and  regularity  as  we  do  his  jellies  and  broths. 

When  we  are  considering  what  we  shall  feed  our 
invalid,  we  cannot  do  better  than  keep  to  our  old 
classification  of  Proteids,  Fats,  and  Carbohydrates. 
He  must  have  all  these  principles  but  in  the  most 
digestible  form,  for  the  stomach  is  feeble  like  the  rest 
of  the  body.  For  this  reason  the  proteids  must  be 
furnished  mainly  from  the  animal  kingdom,  butter 
and  cream  must  supply  the  fat,  and  the  carbohy- 
drates must  bring  with  them  as  little  as  possible  of 
the  tough  cellulose,  and  they  must  be  so  cooked  as 
to  be  easily  digested. 

First,  as  to  the  Proteids. 

Hot  milk,  given  often  in  small  quantities,  is  much 
used  in  the  early  stages  of  recovery  and  is  generally 
better  liked  if  accompanied  by  a  bit  of  toasted  bread 
or  made  into  a  thin  gruel. 

In  the  first  rank,  also,  comes  soup  made  of  lean 
beef  scraped  fine,  covered  with  cold  water  and  allowed 
to  stand  for  an  hour,  then  brought  slowly  to  scalding 
heat  and  kept  there  for  a  short  time;  it  is  then 
strained  through  a  coarse  sieve,  the  small  brown 
flakes  being  allowed  to  pass.  Season  only  with  salt. 
Or,  broil  a  thick,  tender  steak,  cut  it  in  pieces,  and 
then  with  a  lemon  squeezer  press  out  every  particle 
of  juice,  it  may  then  be  diluted  and  seasoned. 

Mutton  broth  is  made  like  beef  soup  but  should  be 
cooked  a  longer  time.  Chicken  broth  also  requires 
more  cooking. 


Cookery  for  the  Sick.  139 

Any  of  these  soups  may  have  a  little  rice  or  tapioca 
cooked  with  them. 

Eggs  are  an  important  item  in  the  diet  of  an  inva- 
lid, being  very  nutritious  and,  if  fresh,  easily  diges- 
ted; do  not  use  them  at  all  if  uncertain  of  their  age. 

Eggs  may  be  given  raw  ( see  page  58 )  or  soft-boiled 
(see  page  59 )  or  poached  in  hot  water.  An  egg  may 
be  served  in  many  ways  and  makes  always  a  pretty 
and  attractive  dish.  In  cooking,  it  should  never  be 
submitted  to  a  high  temperature,  as  that  makes  the 
white  part  horny  and  indigestible. 

A  custard  made  from  an  egg  and  a  cup  of  milk  and 
a  half  table  spoon  of  sugar  may  be  given  early  in  a 
convalescence.  Or  use  beef  soup  or  chicken  broth 
instead  of  the  milk,  and  flavor  with  a  little  salt  and 
pepper.  These  custards  should  be  made  in  a  pail  set 
in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  the  custard  being  stirred 
till  it  begins  to  thicken. 

Next  in  order,  comes  cooked  meat.  Beef  is  best 
of  all,  but  let  it  be  juicy  and  tender  and  broil  or  roast 
it,  serving  it  rare.  Probably  a  broiled  mutton  chop 
ranks  next,  although  chicken,  because  of  its  delicate 
flavor  will  often  receive  the  first  choice.  An  invalid 
should  not  touch  pork,  and  should  be  given  veal  or 
lamb  only  in  the  form  of  soup. 

As  to  fats,  the  system  needs  them  of  course,  but 
fat  meat  should  not  be  given,  only  butter  or  better 
still,  cream.  The  butter  must  never  be  melted  and 
soaked  into  the  food,  nor  made  into  a  sauce. 

As  to  the  vegetable  part  of  the  diet,  much  care 
must  be  used.  In  the  form  of  gruel  or  porridge,  it 
is  generally  very  welcome  and  gives  the  fluid  part  of 


140  Cookery  for  the  Sick. 

the  meal  in  a  good  form.  For  Indian  meal  and  oat- 
meal porridge  see  page  122.  Milk  may  take  the  place 
of  the  water. 

Toast  is  with  good  reason  considered  invalids'  food, 
for  the  process  of  toasting  turns  part  of  the  starch  of 
the  bread  into  dextrine  which  is  digested  with  great 
ease.  Grains  may  be  also  browned  or  roasted.  Roast 
rice  as  you  would  coffee,  cook  as  usual  and  eat  with 
a  little  cream.  Remember  that  bread  for  toast  must 
be  cut  thin  and  first  dried  out  at  a  little  distance  from 
the  fire,  then  brought  nearer  and  browned.  You  may 
then  serve  it  as  dry  toast  lightly  buttered,  or  in  addi- 
tion to  the  butter  and  a  little  salt,  pour  hot  water  or 
milk  on  it  just  before  serving. 

Panada  of  toasted  brown  bread,  white  bread  or 
crackers,  is  made  by  piling  the  pieces  in  a  bowl,  hav- 
ing sprinkled  either  salt  or  sugar  over,  and  then  pour- 
ing over  enough  boiling  water  to  soak  them  well.  It 
should  be  kept  hot  for  an  hour  or  more,  the  pieces  then 
lifted  out  carefully  on  a  hot  saucer  and  served  with  a 
little  cream  and  perhaps  more  salt  or  sugar.  Nutmeg 
may  be  added. 

Rice  is  also  a  very  valuable  food  for  use  in  sickness, 
as  it  does  not  tax  the  most  delicate  digestion. 

Macaroni  is  easily  digested  and  of  high  food  value. 
It  should  be  boiled  in  salted  hot  water  till  tender  and 
served  with  a  little  batter  or  cream.  Or  it  may  be 
added  to  a  custard  and  lightly  baked. 

Barley,  thoroughly  cooked,  is  good  food  for  an  in- 
valid. Oatmeal  must  be  used  with  caution  until  the 
digestion  becomes  stronger. 

As  to  vegetables  proper,  a  mealy  baked  potatoe  is 


Cookery  for  the  Sick.  141 

perhaps  the  first  to  be  introduced  into  the  bill  of  fare; 
remove  the  inside,  mash  fine  and  season  with  a  little 
salt  and  cream.  Beware  of  potatoes  cooked  in  any 
other  way. 

The  juice  of  fruits  may  be  used  early  as  a  flavor  in 
drinks,  but  the  pulp  must  be  discarded.  A  baked 
apple  is  safest  to  begin  with,  when  the  time  comes  to 
introduce  fruit  as  such  into  the  diet. 

As  to  the  serving,  use  the  best  china,  silver  and 
linen  that  you  have  in  the  house  and  let  exquisite 
neatness  never  fail. 

Remember  that  surprises  are  delightful  to  a  sick 
person;  never  let  the  bill  of  fare  be  known  before 
hand,  and  if  you  can  disguise  a  well  known  dish,  so 
much  the  better.  Beaten  white  of  egg  is  a  good  fairy 
and  serves  you  cheaply.  Snowy  white  or  made  golden 
brown  in  the  oven,  it  may  top  many  a  dish,  conceal- 
ing at  one  time  a  custard,  at  another  a  mold  of  chicken 
jelly  or  even  a  cup  of  delicate  apple  sauce. 

The  processes  of  cooking,  if  simple,  an  invalid  loves 
to  watch  and  the  sight  is  often  a  whet  to  the  appetite. 
Bring  his  gruel  to  him  in  the  form  of  mush  and  thin 
it  before  his  eyes  with  milk  or  cream,  coddle  his  egg 
in  a  stone  ware  bowl  while  he  eats  another  course, 
and  by  all  means  make  his  tea  at  the  bed-side. 


BILLS  OF  FAEE. 


The  following  bills  of  fare  are  made  out  for  a 
family  of  six  persons,  consisting  of  a  working  man, 
two  women,  and  three  children  between  the  ages  of 
six  and  fifteen,  the  size  of  the  family  and  the  ages 
attained  being  considered  sufficiently  near  the  average. 

The  amount  of  food  and  the  proportions  in  which 
the  great  food  principles  are  represented  approximate 
to  what  is  demanded  by  standard  dietaries  for  such  a 
family.  For  the  man  of  the  family  we  have  taken,  as 
has  been  said,  the  one  proposed  by  Professor  Atwater 
for  an  American  at  average  manual  labor,  for  the 
women  and  children  those  proposed  by  Prof.  Konig. 
The  amounts  represented  by  them 

Dietary  adopted. 

are  : 

Proteids.        Fats.        <***? 

Man 125  gms.  125  gms.  400  gms. 

2  women  (each) 96     "        48"      400" 

3  children,  6  to  15  yrs.  ^6     t«     ^*44  « 

(each) 

Sum  total  is _  _ 545  gins.  353  gms.  2210  gms. 

Or  translated  into  oz 19.19oz.  12.42oz.  78.03 oz. 

In  calculating  these  amounts  we  have  followed 
almost  entirely  the  analytical  tables  compiled  by  Prof. 
Konig. 

Meat  is  reckoned  without  bone  and  moderately 
fat,  and  in  nearly  all  the  bills  of  fare  the  amount  of 

142 


Bills  of  Fare.  143 

proteids  enough  exceeds  that  required  by  the  dietary 
adopted  so  that  we  can  afford  this  loss.  Flour  is  of 
medium  quality,  eggs  are  reckoned  without  shell,  and 
milk  as  weighing  34.4  oz.  per  qt. 

As  to  prices,  they  are  mainly  those  of  Baltimore 
markets,  corrected  in  some  cases  by  those  of  New  York. 
Eggs  are  reckoned  as  costing  in  the  spring  18  cts., 
in  Fall  and  Winter  25  cts. ,  canned  fruit  is  put  down 
at  the  price  paid  for  the  fruit  in  Summer.  The  cost 
of  raw  material  is  given  in  all  cases,  bread  being 
reckoned  at  the  cost  of  the  flour  contained  in  it. 

In  three  different  seasons,  four  days  in  succession 
are  selected,  these  days  being  the  ones  .considered  most 
trying  to  the  housekeeper — Saturday,  Sunday,  Monday 
and  Tuesday,  and  this  gives  an  opportunity  to  show 
how  the  food  should  be  planned  and  cooked  ahead. 
It  is  intended  that  on  Saturday  the  food  for  Sunday 
should  be  cooked  as  nearly  as  possible,  as  the  Sunday 
dinner  should  be  a  good  one  but  requiring  a  minimum 
of  labor  on  that  day;  the  dinner  on  Monday  should 
be  such  as  can  be  cooked  on  the  back  of  the  stove  and 
in  the  oven. 

The  recipes  will  have  to  be  varied  a  little  according 
to  advice  given  in  appropriate  places  as  to  economy, 
e.  g.y  substituting  beef  fat  for  butter,  or  adding  it 
when  skim  milk  is  used  instead  of  whole  milk. 

It  is  intended  that  each  day  there  shall  be  a  small 
surplus  of  money  for  purchasing  seasonings  and 
flavors. 

INTRODUCTION   TO   BILLS   OF   FARE,    CLASS   I. 

(To  the  Mother  of  the  Family.) 
In  the  general  introduction  the  writer  has  stated  a 


144  Introductory  Letter. 

few  principles  that  should  guide  us  in  choosing  our 
food.  We  have  learned  that  to  keep  us  in  good  health 
and  working  order  we  ought  to  have  a  certain  amount 
of  what  is  best  furnished  hy  meat,  eggs,  milk  and 
other  animal  products,  and  that  we  must  also  have 
fats  as  well  as  what  is  given  us  in  grains  and  vegetables. 

But  now  our  work  has  only  just  begun  for  we  are  to 
furnish  these  food  principles  in  the  shape  of  cooked 
dishes  to  be  put  on  the  family  table  three  times  a  day, 
and  the  dishes  must  not  only  be  nourishing  but  they 
must  taste  good,  and  there  must  be  plenty  of  variety 
from  day  to  day;  and  last — and  this  is  the  hardest 
point  of  all — we.  are  to  try  to  do  this  for  the  sum  of 
13  cents  per  person  daily. 

I  am. going  to  consider  myself  as  talking  to  the 
mother  of  a  family  who  has  six  mouths  to  feed,  and 
no  more  money  than  this  to  do  it  with.  Perhaps  this 
woman  has  never  kept  accurate  accounts  and  does  not 
know  whether  she  spends  more  or  less  than  this  sum. 
She  very  likely  has  her  "  flush  "  days  and  her  "  poor  " 
days  according  to  the  varying  amounts  of  the  family 
earnings,  anpl  it  may  be  a  comfort  to  her  to  know  that 
if  she  could  average  these  days  and  plan  a  little  bet- 
tor, she  can  feed  her  family  nicely  on  this  sum. 

A  few  facts  as  to  what  the  writer  knows  to  have  been 
done  in  this  line  will  not  be  amiss.  I  knew  a  family 
of  6  belonging  to  one  of  the  professional  classes,  half, 
grown  people,  and  half,  children,  that  lived  for  a 
year  on  an  average  of  11  cents  per  person  daily,  and 
no  one  would  have  said  that  they  did  not  live  well 
enough;  they  had  meat  about  four  days  out  of  the 
seven,  there  was  always  cake  on  their  supper  table, 
and  they  used  plenty  of  fruit. 


Introductory  Letter.  145 

Here  is  an  average  bill  of  fare.  Breakfast  —  milk 
toast,  fried  potatoes,  coffee;  dinner  —  soup  made  of 
shank  of  beef,  fried  liver,  rice  and  potatoes;  supper 
—  bread  and  butter  fried  mush,  stewed  pears  and 
cake.  Next  day  there  was  pressed  beef  made  from 
the  soup  meat  chopped  and  flavored,  and  next  day 
there  was  cheap  fish  nicely  fried.  The  head  of  this 
household  was  a  skillful  economist,  absolutely  no  mis- 
takes were  made  in  cooking,  and  not  a  scrap  was 
wasted,  she  had  a  long  list  of  simple  dishes  at  her 
command  and  she  especially  studied  variety.  "I 
abandon  even  a  favorite  dish  for  weeks,"  she  said, 
"if  any  one  tires  of  it."  I  give  this  as  a  sample  of 
what  I  know  to  have  been  done  by  a  highly  respect- 
able family  in  a  city  of  small  size  in  one  of  our  east- 
ern states. 

It  must  be  mentioned  that  the  price  on  which  this 
family  lived  in  comfort  could  not  have  been  as  low  as 
it  was  but  for  one  great  help;  they  had  a  small  gar- 
den that  furnished  green  vegetables  and  a  little  fruit. 
But  then  almost  every  family  has  some  special  advan- 
tage that  would  lower  the  rate  somewhat ;  one  buys 
butter  or  fruit  advantageously  of  friends  in  the  coun- 
try, another  can  buy  at  wholesale  when  certain  staples 
are  cheapest,  still  another  may  be  able  to  keep  a  few 
fowls,  and  so  on.  Numerous  instances  could  be 
brought  to  prove  that  the  food  for  a  family  can  be  pur- 
chased in  a  raw  condition  for  the  sum  per  head  for 
which  we  have  undertaken  to  buy  it,  and  that  by  skill 
in  cooking,  flavoring  and  giving  right  variety,  a  health- 
ful and  very  acceptable  diet  can  be  furnished,  though 
it  cannot,  of  course,  contain  luxuries. 
18 


146  Time  and  Utensils  Required. 

Another  thing,  when  I  speak  of  a  woman  who  is  to 
buy  the  food  of  a  family  for  13  cents  apiece  daily, 
I  have  in  mind  the  wife  of  a  man  who  earns  this  sum 
himself,  the  wife  having  her  time  to  attend  to  the 
housework  and  children.  If  a  woman  helps  earn,  as 
in  a  factory,  doing  most  of  her  housework  after  she 
comes  home  at  night,  she  must  certainly  have  more 
money  than  in  the  first  case  in  order  to  accomplish 
the  same  result,  for  she  must  buy  her  bread  already 
baked  and  can  only  cook  those  dishes  that  take  the 
least  time. 

I  shall  take  for  granted  that  you  have  the  kitchen 
utensils  described  on  page  20;  if  not,  buy  them,  be- 
cause, you  cannot  afford  to  do  without  them.  Food 
is  very  expensive  compared  with  pots  and  pans  ;  you 
must  not  spoil  food  for  lack  of  the  right  things  to 
cook  it  in. 

I  only  ask  you  in  advance  to  try  the  recipes  I  shall 
give  and  to  try  to  lay  aside  your  prejudices  against 
dishes  to  which  you  are  not  accustomed,  as  soups  and 
cheese  dishes  for  instance.  You  cannot  afford  to 
reject  anything  that  will  vary  your  diet,  for  many 
good  tasting  things  you  cannot  buy. 

I  know  it  is  hard  for  a  busy  woman  to  give  to  her 
cooking  a  bit  more  time  than  will  "  just  do,"  but  if 
you  make  it  a  rule  to  determine  the  night  beforehand 
just  what  you  will  cook  on  the  following  day,  no  mat- 
ter how  simple  the  food  may  be,  you  will  gain  this 
result ;  with  the  materials  at  your  disposal  you  will 
put  before  your  family  much  better  food,  and  they 
will  call  you  a  good  cook  and  think  that  no  family 
need  live  better  than  they;  and  this  impression  will  be 


Buying  of  Meat.  Itf 

made  principally  from  your  having  the  right  variety. 
Let  us  understand,  to  begin  with,  that  it  is  your 
business  in  life  just  now  to  conquer  this  food  question 
as  it  affects  your  family.  Just  as  the  business  man 
must  watch  the  market  and  take  advantage  of  a  half 
cent  a  pound  on  an  article,  that  he  may  successfully 
compete  with  his  neighbor,  so  you  must  be  on  the 
alert  to  use  every  possible  advantage.  It  is  a  struggle 
in  which  energy  and  calculation  will  tell  for  a  great 
deal,  and  you  will  have  solid  enjoyment  in  every  point 
that  you  gain. 

In  buying  meat  your  saving  cannot  be  so  much  in 
quantity  as  in  quality.  Try  to  learn  the  different  parts 
of  an  animal,  and  to  distinguish  between  meat  from  a 
fat  ox  and  that  from  a  lean  one,  for,  as  we  have  explain- 
ed, the  former  has  less  water  in  it,  and  why  should  you 
pay  good  money  for  that  which  nature  gives  you  free  ? 
In  winter,  try  to  buy  meat  ahead  so  that  you  can 
make  it  tender  by  keeping  it,  and  you  will  notice,  too, 
that  the  larger  the  piece  you  buy  the  smaller  is  the 
per  cent  of  bone  you  get  with  it.  The  per  cent  of 
bone  in  the  whole  animal,  as  in  the  case  of  an  ox,  is 
not  more  than  10  or  11  per  cent,  but  the  buyer  of  a 
small  piece  of  meat  often  gets  twice  that  proportion. 
As  we  have  said  again  and  again  in  these  pages,  the 
low-priced  or  tougher  parts  have  as  much  nutriment 
for  you  as  the  rib  roast  which  is  beyond  your  purse. 
Choose  often  the  fat  middle  rib  and  cook  it  long 
and  slowly ;  buy  the  neck  and  scrag  of  mutton,  and 
make  a  stew  with  vegetables :  buy  half  a  calf  s  head, 
and  see  what  a  fine  soup  you  can  make  of  it.  Have 
beefs  liver  now  and  then,  and  tripe,  rather  than  put 


148  Grains  and  Vegetables. 

your  money  into  sausage  of  doubtful  quality.  By  all 
means  buy  fish  when  it  is  cheap,  catfish,  for  instance, 
which  are  excellent  fried.  Keep  suet  always  on  hand 
and  use  instead  of  butter,  as  has  been  directed. 

No  one  need  tell  you  how  valuable  salt  pork  and 
bacon  are  for  you, — the  only  danger  is  that  you  will 
use  too  much  of  them. 

In  buying  eggs,  you  must  be  governed  by  the 
price;  in  winter  use  as  few  as  possible,  and  even  in 
the  spring  when  they  are  cheapest,  remember  that 
they  are  not  as  cheap  as  the  lowest  priced  cuts  of 
meat  from  fat  animals.  But  when  they  cost  only 
15  cents  a  dozen  you  can  well  disregard  any  small 
comparison  of  nutritive  values,  in  consideration  of 
their  high  worth  in  furnishing  variety;  you  can 
afford  to  use  them  now  and  then  in  the  place  of  meat 
and  in  making  the  various  egg  dishes. 

Of  the  value  of  cheese  as  a  regular  dish  to  take  the 
place  of  meat,  you  can  read  in  another  part  of  this 
essay.  Buy  it  once  a  week  at  least,  the  skim  variety, 
if  you  cannot  afford  the  others,  and  grate  or  cook  it 
according  to  the  recipes  given. 

Try  to  find  a  reliable  milkman  and  buy  skim  milk 
at  half  the  price  of  full,  and  use  it  for  all  cooking  pur- 
poses, keeping  full  milk,  and,  if  possible,  a  little  of 
the  cream,  for  coffee. 

Now  let  us  take  the  vegetable  part  of  your  diet. 
You  must  keep  on  hand  every  kind  of 
flour  and  grain  that  is  not  too  expen- 
sive ;  be  thankful  that  wheat  flour  is  so  good  and  so 
cheap,  it  will  be  your  best  friend.     If  you  are  not 
already  skillful  in  using  it  in  bread  and  other  doughs, 


Flavorings.  149 

you  will  waste  your  materials  and  make  mistakes  at 
first,  but  there  is  nothing  for  you  but  to  become  mis- 
tress of  this  department  of  cookery.  Use  bread  freely 
in  all  the  bread  dishes,  learn  how  to  make  every  one. 
You  will  use  buckwheat  for  cakes,  rice  for  puddings, 
barley  in  soups,  oatmeal  and  cornmeal  for  mushes,  and 
you  must  learn  to  use  them  all  in  as  many  ways  as  possi- 
ble. The  grains  are  cheaper  foods  for  us  than  vegeta- 
bles, although  dried  peas,  beans  and  lentils  follow  hard 
upon  them.  Even  the  potato,  which  may  be  called 
our  favorite  vegetable,  is  more  expensive  than  wheat 
flour,  if  we  are  talking  only  of  food  values. 

Except  in  the  height  of  their  season,  have  noth- 
ing to  do  with  green  vegetables,  at  least  not  under 
the  impression  that  they  are  cheap;  if  you  buy  them, 
know  that  you  are  paying  for  flavors  and  variety, 
rather  than  for  food.  But  even  in  the  early  spring, 
buy  plenty  of  such  vegetables  as  onions,  carrots,  pars- 
ley and  other  green  herbs  for  your  soups  and  stews. 
When  you  go  for  a  walk  in  the  country,  be  sure  to 
bring  home  mint  and  sorrel  in  your  pocket ;  the  for- 
mer will  make  you  a  nice  meat  sauce,  •  the  latter  a 
delightful  flavor  in  soup.  It  will  be  perfectly  easy 
for  you  to  grow  in  a  window  box  that  delicious  herb, 
parsley,  and  have  it  always  fresh. 

For  a  low  purse,  there  is  no  help  so  great  as  a 
knowledge  of  flavorings.  When  we  remember  that 
we  can  live  on  bread,  beans,  peas  and  a  little  cheap 
meat  and  fat  the  year  round  if  we  can  only  make  it 
"go  down,"  we  shall  realize  the  importance  of  such 
additions  as  rouse  the  appetite;  there  is  room  here  for 
all  your  skill  and  all  your  invention.  Always  make  a 


150  Bills  of  Fare. 


cheap  but  nutritious  dish  inviting  in  appearance;  es- 
pecially does  this  influence  the  appetites  of  children 
who  are  delighted  with  a  very  plain  cake  if  only  a  few 
raisins  or  some  sugar  appear  on  the  top. 

The  Bills  of  Fare  on  pages  146  to  158,  where  78  cents 
covers  the  cost  of  food  for  a  family  of  6  per  day,  and 
where  the  amount  of  food  is  carefully  weighed  and  esti- 
mated, is  meant  only  to  suggest  to  you  how  in  a  few 
cases  your  food  problem  can  be  solved.  You  can,  no 
doubt,  spend  the  money  in  ways  that  will  better  suit 
the  tastes  of  your  family,  but  I  beg  you  to  exam- 
ine anew  your  favorite  dishes  to  see  if  they  are  as 
nutritious  as  they  should  be  for  their  price.  Eemem- 
ber  that  the  Proteid  column  is  the  one  that  you  must 
look  to  most  carefully  because  it  is  furnished  at  the 
most  expense,  and  it  is  very  important  that  it  should 
not  fall  below  the  figures  I  have  given.  If,  for  in- 
stance, you  should  economize  in  meat  in  order  to  buy 
cake  and  pastry,  this  column  would  suffer  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  other  two  and  your  family  would  be 
under  nourished. 


Bills  of  Faro,  Class  L  151 


BILLS   OF  FARE,  CLASS   I. 


For  family  of  six,  average  price  78  cents  per  day,  or  13  cents 
per  person. 

SATURDAY,  MAY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Flour  Pancakes,  Bread  Soup  (p.  20). 

(p.  103)  with  Sugar  Syrup.  Beef  neck  Stew 

Coffee.  Noodles  (p.  90). 

Swelled  Rice  Pudding  (p.  107). 

Supper. 

Browned  Flour  Soup,  with  Fried  Bread  (p.  121). 
Toast  and  Cheese  (page  62,  No.  1). 


)4  Ib.  Rice 

Proteids. 
oz. 
64 

Fats, 
oz. 

08 

Carbo- 
hydrates, 
oz. 
6  12 

Cost 
in 
Cents. 
4 

1  Ib.  Sugar 

15  42 

7 

M  Ib.Fat  Cheese  

3.00 

3.48 

.24 

HJ4 

2  qts.  Skim  Milk  

2.12 

.48 

3.30 

8 

21b.  Flour  

3.84 

.48 

22.88 

6 

^  qt.  Whole  Milk  

58 

.62 

.83 

3^ 

2  Eggs  

34 

.32 

3 

fyi  Ibs.  Beef  neck  

8.40 

2.20 

20 

%lb.  Suet  

5.88 

3 

^  Ib.  Coffee 

o  3 

3^6  Ibs.  Bread  

.     ...      3.36 

.28 

29.06 

i 

%v 

Total 

22.28 

13.82 

77.85 

771" 

Required  .. 

19.19 

12.42 

78,03 

IT 

78 

153  Sills  of  Fare,  Class  1. 


SUNDAY,  MAY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Milk  Toast.  Stuffed  Beef's  Heart  (p.  48). 

Coffee.  Potatoes  stewed 

with  Milk. 

Dried  Apple  Pie  (p.  108). 
Bread  and  Cheese. 
Corn  Coffee  (p.  135). 

Supper. 

Noodle  Soup  (from  Saturday,  p.  91). 

Broiled  Herring. 

Bread. 

Tea. 

T>rn^irJa         T?nta  CarbO-          Cost 

Proteids.  Fats.  hydrates.       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.          Cents. 
Heart  of  Fat  Ox  > 

weighing  2  Ibs.  1  ..............      5'76  &B8  —         10 

41bs.  Bread  .....................      3.84  .32  33.22          9^ 


Sugar  .........................  ....  11.88  5 

Iqt.  Skim  Milk  .................      1.06  .24  1.65  4 

%  Ib.  Dried  Apples  ..............  10  ....  4.50  6 

l^lb.Flour  ....................      2.88  .36  17.16  4 

12  Smoked  Herring  (1  pound).     3.36  1.36  ....  10 

Jilb.  Suet  ...........................  9.23  ....  2 

2  Ibs.  Potatoes  ...................  64  ....  6.62  2K 

&lb.  Butter  ........................  3.33  ....  6^ 

&  Ib.  Skim  Cheese  ..............     2.40  1.07  40  4 

Tea  .....................................  .—  3 

J^lb.  Coffee  ........................  ----  3f 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk  ...............      1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

Total  .........................     21.20  14.39  77.08  76 

Required,.  .,  ...............  „     19,19  12,43  78,03  78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  I. 


153 


MONDAY,  MAY. 


Breakfast. 

Oatmeal  Mush,  with 

Milk  and  Sugar. 

Bread. 

Coffee. 


Dinner. 

Pea  Soup  (p.  117). 

Mutton  Stew  (p.  52). 

Boiled  Potatoes. 

Bread. 


Bread  Pancakes  (p.  93). 

Fried  Bacon. 

Tea. 

Prnfpirtc  T?O+B  Carbo-  Cost 

Proteids.  Fats.  hydrates.       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

2  Eggs 34  .32  ....  3 

).  Oarmeal 1.74  .72  7.80  3% 

>.  Coffee ....  ....  3| 

).  Sugar 7.92  3^ 

1^  qts.  Skim  Milk  , 1.59  .36  1.48  6 

%lb.  Bacon 36  9.60  ....  9 

4  Ibs.  Potatoes 1.28  ....  13.24  5 

4  Ibs.  Bread 3.84  .32  33.20  9^ 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.24  1.66  7 

3  Ibs.  Shoulder  of  Mutton 8.16  2.88  ....  21 

1  Ib.  Peas,  Dried 3.68  .32  8.32  5 

J^lb.  Flour 96  .12     .       5.72  1J£ 

Total, 2aU  15.88  80.34  77.3 

Bequired .._„     19,19  12,42  78.03  78 


154  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  I. 


TUESDAY,  MAY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Oatmeal  Mush  and  Milk.  Fried  Catfish 

Buttered  Toast.  with  Mint  Sauce  (p.  73). 

Coffee.  Fried  Potatoes. 

Bread. 

Supper. 

Fried  Farina  Pudding  (p.  107). 

Broiled  Salt  Pork. 

Bread. 

Tea. 

Prnfmrte         TTa+a  CarbO-          Cost 

Proteids.     Fats.  hydrates.       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

lib.  Oatmeal 2.32  '96  10.40  5 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

Iqt.  Skim  Milk 1.06  .24  1.65  4 

3^  Ibs.  Catfish 7.00  .20  ....  17^ 

l^lbs.  Farina 2.50  ...  18.22  7J^ 

2eggs 34  .32  ....  3 

4^1bs.  Bread 4.32  .36  37.36 

Coffee ....  ....  3f 

21bs.  Potatoes 64  ....  6.62  2% 

%  Ib.  Salt  Pork 30  8.00  ....  7^ 

^lb.  Butter 1.67  ....  3% 

^4  Ib.  Sugar ....  3.96  1% 

Tea ....  ....  2 

Total 19.64  12.98  79.86         74f 

Required.. .r „„,....,..,*.    19.19  12.42  78.03        78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  I. 


155 


SATURDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 


Soda  Biscuit. 
Baked  Potatoes  with 
Drawn  Butter  Sauce. 
Cocoa. 


Dinner. 

Pea  Soup  (p.  117) 

Irish  Stew. 

Bread. 


Supper. 


Corn  Mush  and  Molasses. 

Bread  and  Grated  Cheese. 

Tea. 

Prntpiri«  T?at«  Carbo-  Cost 

Proteids.  Fats.  hydrates.  in 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

L  Ib.  Dried  Peas 3.68  .33  8.33  5 

3  Ibs.  Scrag  of  Mutton 5.44  1.93  ....  16 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96  ....  9.94 

31bs.  Bread 3.88  .34  24.90 

2  Ibs.  Cornmeal 3.14  .90  19.50  6 

Y±\\).  Sugar ....  3.96  1% 

Y±  Ib.  Fat  Cheese 1.00  1.56  .08  3% 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.33  1.65  7 

J41b.  Buttei 3.33  ....  6/n 

1^  Ibs..  Flour 3.88  .36  17.16  6% 

Mlb.  Suet 3.93  ....  3 

J4  Ib.  Molasses ....  3.48  % 

Cocoa  Shells 3 

Tea ....  ....  3 

Total 31.14  13.78  87.99  71^6 

Bequired ., ,, --.,,,    19.19  13.43  78.03  78 


156  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  I. 


SUNDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Oatmeal  and  Milk.  Broiled  Beefs  Liver, 

Bread  and  Butter.  Boiled  Potatoes  and  Carrots 

Cocoa.  with  Fried  Onions  (p.  116). 

Bread  and  Cheese. 

Supper. 

Lentil  Soup  with  Fried  Bread  (p.  118). 

Smoked  Herring. 
Bread.    Barley  Porridge  (p.  122). 

PrntPirU           TTat«             CarbO-  Cost 

Froteids.       Fats.      hydrates.  in 

oz.              oz.             oz.  Cents. 

1H  Ibs.  Beef 's  Liver 4.80              .96             ....  15 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96             ....             9.94  3% 

lib.  Carrots ....              1.44  1% 

1)4  Ibs.  Oatmeal 3.48             1.44            15.60  7^ 

J^lb.  Lentils 2.04               .16             4.32  5 

V6,  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.74             1.85             2.48  10^ 

^Ib.Sugar ....              7.92  3^ 

^  Ib.  Pearl  Barley 44               .06             2.86  2 

Mlb.Suet 3.92             ....  2 

41bs.  Bread 3.84               .32            33.20  9^ 

6  Smoked  Herring  ( 8  oz.) 1.68               .68             ....  5 

Mlb.  Butter 3.33             ....  6J4 

M  Ib.  Fat  Cheese 1.00             1.16             ....  3% 

Cocoa  Shells ....            ....  2 

Total 19.98            13.88            77.76  76T95 

Required 19.19            12.42            78.03  78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  I. 


MONDAY,  SEPTEMBER 


Breakfast. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

Fried  Bacon. 

Coffee. 


Dinner. 

Giblet  Soup  (p.  58). 

Baked  Potatoes  with 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce. 

Bread. 


Supper. 

Codfish  Balls  (p.  57). 

Cheese. 
Bread.    Tea. 

Proteids.  Fats, 

oz.  oz. 

2  Ibs.  Buckwheat  Flour 3.04  .64 

Giblets 2.20  .12 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96 

%lb.  Bacon 36  9.60 

4^  Ibs.  Bread 4.32  .36 

J^lb.  Sugar 

H  lb.  Fat  Cheese 3.  2.48 

1  Ib.  Salt  Codfish 4.80  .16 

Tea 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.23 

^lb.  Coffee 

Total 19.84  15.59 

Required ....    19.19  12.42 


Carbo- 
hydrates. 

oz. 
23.30 

.... 
9.94 

37.36 
7.92 
.24 


1.65 


80.41 
78.03 


Cost 
in 

Cents. 
10 


78 


158  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  L 


TUESDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Fried  Bacon.  Boiled  Corned  Beef 

Boiled  Potatoes.  with  Horseradish  Sauce. 

Bread.     Coffee.  Stewed  Cabbage. 

Bread. 
Barley  Porridge  (p.  122). 


Pea  Soup. 

Yeast  Biscuit  and  Butter. 
Stewed  Fruit. 

Protelds.  Fat,  £g°^     Cost 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

1^6  Ibs.  Corn  Beef 6.96  1.54  ....  15 

3  Ibs.  Cabbage 80  ....  2.  6 

21bs.  Flour 3.84  .48  22.88  6 

2  Ibs.  Potatoes 64  ....  6.62  2% 

1  Ib.  Dried  Peas 3.68  .32  8.32  5 

3^  Ibs.  Bread 3.36  .28  29.06  8?V 

.  Bacon 24  6.40  ....  6 

.  Butter 3.33  ....  6M 

.  Suet >. 1.96  ....  1 

^  Ib.  Pearl  Barley 88  .12  5.72  4 

Iqt.  Skim  Milk 1.06  .24  1.65  4 

1  pt.  Whole  Milk 58  .62  .83 

.  Coffee 

Sugar ....  7.92  3^ 

Fruit ....  ....  3 

Total 22.04  15.29  85.  771 

Required 19.19  12.42  78.03  78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  1.  159 


SATURDAY,  JANUARY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Fried  Bacon.  Browned  Flour  Soup  (p.  121). 

Corn  Bread  (p.  103).  Stewed  Mutton. 

Coffee.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Bread. 

tapper. 

Baked  Beans.     Bread. 

Apple  Dumplings  (p.  108), 

with  Pudding  Sauce  (p.  112). 

Tea. 

Proteids.       Fats.  Cost 


oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

3  Ibs.  Neck  of  Mutton  ..........      8.16  2.88  ....  24 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes  ...................  98  ....  9.94             3% 

41bs.  Bread  ..............  .......      3.84  .32  33.20  9^ 

lib.  Flour  ......................      1.92  .24  11.44             3 

2  Ibs.  Corn  Meal  ................      3.14  1.20  22.40             6 

lib.  Beans  ......................      3.68  .32  8.56             5 

3^  Ib.  Sugar  ............  ..,  ...........  ....  7.92             3^ 

^lb.  Bacon  ......................  24  6.44  ....              6 

J^lb.Suet  ...........................  1.96  ....              1 

^Ib.Coffee  ....................  .      ....  ....  ....  3§ 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk  ...............      1.16  1.23  1.65             7 

Apples  ..............  .  ...............  ....  ....              2 

Tea  ..................................  ....  ....  2 

Total  ..........................    23.10  14.59  95.11  75* 

Required  .....................    19.19  12.42  78.03  78 


160  £ilts  of  Fare,  Class  L 


SUNDAY,  JANUAKY. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Fried  Codfish.  Sheep's  Head  Stew 

Bread  and  Butter.  with  Soda  Biscuit  Dumplings. 

Coffee.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Bread  and  Grated  Cheese. 
Cocoa. 

Supper. 

Potato  and  Onio^n  Salad. 

Broiled  Salt  Pork.     Bread. 

Corn  Mush  with  Pudding  Sauce  (p.  112). 

•Pvr>+0i/la            TTofc               CafbO-  Cost 

Proteids.       Fats.      hydrate8.  in 

oz.               oz.              oz.  Cents. 

2  Ibs.  Corn  Meal 3.14             1.20            22.40  6 

Iqt.  Skim  Milk 1.08                .24              1.65  4 

1  pt.  Whole  Milk .58               .62               .83  3^ 

^Ib.Sugar - -- ----  7.92 

3  Ibs.  Bread 2.88               .24            24.90  6TS 

1  Ib.  Salt  Codfish 4.80             ....              ....  8 

J^lb.  Butter 6.66             ....  12 

M  lb.  Skim  Cheese 1.20              .53               .20  2 

4  Ibs.  Potatoes  1.28             ....            13.25  5 

Mlb.  Salt  Pork 12             3.20             ....  3 

J41b.  Suet 3.92             ....  2 

%lb.  Flour 1.44                .18              8.58  2 

1  Sheep's  Head,    assumed  to 

contain  1^  Ibs.  meat 4.08             1.44             ....  12 

Onions 2 

Cocoa  Shells ....             ....  2 

Coffee ....             ....  3f 

Total 2058            1&23            79.73  78 

Required 19.19            12.42            78.03  78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  L  161 


MONDAY,  JANUARY. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Fried  Mush  and  Molasses.  Soup  (from  Boiled  Beef) 

Bread.  with  Macaroni. 

Coffee.  Boiled  Beef  Flank 

with  Mustard  Sauce, 
Bean  Puree. 

Bread. 

Supper. 

Boiled  Potatoes  with 

Butter  Gravy. 

Dried  Apple  Roly  Poly  Pudding  (p.  108). 
Bread.    Tea. 


Proteids       Fats  Cost 


oz-  oz>  oz.  Cents 

2  Ib.  Beef  Flank  ...............      6.72  1.76  ....  16 

lib.  Beans  ....................      3.68  .32  8.56  5 

Yz  Ib.  Dried  Apples,  ...........  10  ....  4.50  6 

2  Ibs.  Potatoes  .................  64  ....  6.62  2fa 

2  Ibs.  Corn  Meal  ..............      3.14  1.20  22.40  6 

1^  Ibs.  Flour  .................      2.88  .36  17.16  4^ 

J4  Ib.  Butter  ......................  3.33  ....  6J4 

J41b.  Suet  ........................  3.92  ....  2 

J41b.  Molasses  ....................  ....  2.48  2^ 

^Ib.Sugar  .......................  ....  7.92  3^ 

3  Ibs.  bread  ...................      2.88  .24  24.90  6A 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk  .............      1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

^lb.  Coffee  ......................  ....  ....  3f 

Tea  ............  .  ...................  ....  ....  2 

.  Macaroni  ................  36  .02  3.06  3^ 


Total  .......................      256  12.38  9925  Tr 

Required  ..................      19.19  12.42  78,03  78 

14 


163  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  L 


TUESDAY,  JANUARY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Fried  Potatoes.  Browned  Farina  Soup  with 

Bread.  Toast  (p.  121). 

Coffee.  Stewed  Mutton,  with 

Yeast  Dumplings. 

Supper. 

Bean  Soup. 

Milk  Toast. 

Tea. 

Proteids  Fats 

oz.  oz. 

oz.  Cents 

%  Ibs.  Mutton 6.80  2.40  20 

Iqt.  Skim  Milk 1.06  .24  1.65  4 

1J^  Ibs.  Beans 5.52  .48  12.84  7J^ 

\i  Ib.  Butter 3.33  ^ 

fcUb.Suet 7.84  .  4 

fcHb.  Sugar ....  7.93  ^ 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96             9.94  414 

l^lbs.  Flour 2.88  .36  17.16  4^ 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

31bs.  Bread 2.88  .24  24.90  ^ 

.  Farina 42  ....  3.03  1% 

Coffee ....  ....  3§ 

Tea 

Total 21.68  16.12  79.09  75~~ 

Required 19.19  12.42  78.03  78 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  II.  163 


BILLS  OF  FARE,  CLASS  II. 


For  family  of  six.  Average  price  $1.26  per  day,  or  18  cts. 
per  person. 

The  bills  of  fare  in  this  class  will  not  be  given  in  oVail. 
Taking  those  given  for  Class  I  as  a  basis,  it  is  expected  that 
certain  luxuries  will  be  added  and  a  better  quality  of  food 
used;  the  quantities  of  Proteid,  Fat  and  Carbohydrate  will 
then  not  be  lowered,  which  is  the  point  of  greatest  importance. 


164  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 

BILLS  OF  FARE,  CLASS  III. 


For  family  of  six.  Average  price,  $1.38  per  day,  or  33 
cents  per  person. 

SATURDAY,  MAY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Oranges.  Beef  Soup  with 

Egg  Omelet  on  Egg  Sponge  (p.  128). 

Toast.  Macaroni  with  Cheese  (p.  90). 

Boiled  Rice  with  Dandelion  Greens. 

Milk  and  Sugar.  Bread. 
Coffee. 


Sour  Cream  Soup  (p.  124). 
Meat  Croquettes  (of  soup  meat)  (p.  49). 
Graham  Bread  and  Butter. 
Tea.    Cake. 


T>rr>^iHa  T?afa  arO-  OS 

Proteids  Fats  hydrates  in 

oz-  oz-  oz.  Cents 

lib.  Rice  ......................      1.38  .16  12.24  8 

J^lb.  Sugar  .......................  ....  7.92  3^ 

6  Oranges  .........................  ____  ____  10 

Mlb.  Macaroni  ................      1.08  ....  9.18  12% 

41bs.  Bread  ....................      3.84  .32  33.22  9^ 

21bs.  Flour  ...................  ..      3.84  .48  22.88  6 

Jglb.  Coffee  .......................  ....  ....  3f 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk  .............      2.32  2.46  3.30  14 

10  Egrg-s  ........................      1.70  1.60  ....  15 

.  Meat  ...................      8.40  2.20  ....  20 

.  Butter  .......................  9.99  ....  18& 

.  Fat  Cheese.  ..............     2.00  2.32  .16  1% 

Sour  Cream  and  flavors  for 

soup  .........................  ____  ----  6 

Tea  .................................  2 

Total  .........................    2U6  19^53  88.90 

Required  ...................    19.19  12.42  78.03  138 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


165 


SUNDAY,  MAT. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Oatmeal  Mush  with  sugar  Ham  and  Eggs. 

and  milk.  Salad  of  Cold  Beans  and 

Bread  and  Butter.  Lettuce 

Coffee.  Rhubarb  Pie. 

Cocoa. 
Bread. 


Rice  Pancakes  (p.  93),  with 

Sugar  Syrup. 

Stewed  Potatoes. 

Tea. 

Proteids        Fats 
oz.  oz. 

%  Ib.  Oatmeal 1.74  0.72 

^  Ib.  Coffee 

llb.Sugar 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk 2.32  2.46 

Mlb.  Butter 9.99 

lib.  Ham 3.84  5.84 

J^lb.  Suet 1.96 

12Eggs 2.04  1.92 

Cocoa — 

31bs.  Potatoes 96 

41bs.  Bread 3.84  .32 

J^  Ib. Lettuce 10 

lib.  Beans 3.68  .32 

Rhubarb 

^Ib.Riee 64  .08 

l^lbs.  Flour 2.88  .36 

Tea 

Salad  Dressing — 

Total 22.04  23.97 

Required 19.19  12.42 


Carbo- 
hydrates 
oz. 

7.80 

15.84 
3.30 


9.94 

33.20 

.20 

8.55 

6.12 
17.16 


102.11 

78.03 


Cost 

in 

Cents. 


5 

5 
4 
4 

*M 

2 

5 

iiT 

138 


166  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


MONDAY,  MAY. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Oranges.  Roast  Mutton  and  Bread 

Milk  Toast.  Dressing  (p.  106). 

Coffee.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Corn  Mush  with  Sugar 

and  Milk. 
Soda  Cream  (p.  136). 

Supper. 

Parsnip  Soup  (p.  119),  with  Yeast  Dumplings  (p.  128). 

Bread  and  butter. 
Sponge  Cake.     Tea. 

PrntPidH          Pnta  CarbO-  Cost 

**ts  hydrates  in 

oz'               oz>  oz.  Cents 

3^1bs.  Bread 3.36              .28  29.06  8TV 

3  IDS.  Mutton 8.16             2.88  ....  48 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk 2.32             2.46  3.30  14 

l^lbs.  Sugar 23.76  10^ 

lib.  Flour 1.92               .24  11.44  3 

Butter 6.66  ....  12^ 

.  Coffee ....  ....               3f 

6  Oranjres 10 

21b.  Cornmeal 3.14  1.20  22.40               6 

4Eggs 68  .64  ....                6 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96  ....  9.94              3% 

Tea ....               2 

SodaCream —  —               3 

Parsnips —  —               6 


Total 20.54  14.36 

Required 19.19  12.42  78.03  138 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  IIL  167 


TUESDAY,  MAT. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Buttered  Toast.  Sorrel  Soup  (p.  120.) 

Coffee.  Fried  Catfish. 

Canned  Fruit.  Noodles  (p.  90.) 

Bread. 
Swelled  Rice  Pudding  (p.  107). 

Supper. 

Fried  Mush. 
Stewed  Rhubarb. 
Fresh  Rusks  and  Butter  (p.  98). 
Tea. 

Proteids.       Fats. 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

Canned  Fruit ....  ....  15 

2  Ibs.  Corn  Meal 3.14  1.20  22.40  6 

31bs.  Bread 2.88  .24  24.90  6 

l^qts.  Whole  Milk.... 1.74  1.86  2.50  10* 

2  qts.  Skim  Milk 2.12  .48  3.30  8 

Rhubarb ....  ....  8 

2  Ibs.  Flour 3.84  .48  22.88  6 

lib.  Butter 13.33  ....  26 

^lb.  Sugar ....  7.92  3 

Sorrel  &c.  for  Soup 5 

J^lb.  Rice 64  .08  6.12  4 

J41b.  Suet 3.92  ....  2 

3  Ibs.  Fresh  Fish 8.00  .24  ....  18 

^lb.  Coffee ....  ....  3 

4Eg-gs 68  .64  ....  6 

Tea...  2 


Total 23.04  22.47 

Required. 19.19  12.42  78.03          138 


168  Sills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


SATUKDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Hominy  Mush  with  Plum  Soup  (p.  125). 

Sugar  Syrup  Broiled  Beef  Steak. 

Stewed  Pears.  Boiled  Green  Corn. 

Toasted  Crackers.  Turnips  and  Potatoes  (p.  116). 

Coffee.  Bread. 

Apple  Pie  (p.  109). 
Supper. 

Irish  Stew  (p.  52). 

Biscuit  and  Butter. 

Yeast  Doughnuts  (p.  99). 

Tea. 


T>iwfo<rla 

Proteids.              .  hydrate8.       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.  Cents. 

lib.  Hominy  ....................      1.58  .60  11.20  5 

Pears  and  Plums  ...................  ____  ____  6 

21bs.  Bread  .....................      1.92  .16  16.60  4$ 

J^lb.  Crackers.,  .................  50  ....  4.15  5 

2  Ibs.  Beef  Steak  ................     6.72  1.76  ....  36 

1  doz.  Green  Corn  ..................  ____  ____  15 

2  Ibs.  Potatoes  ...................  64  ....  6.62  2^ 

Apples  ..............................  ____  ____  4 

lib.  Turnips  .....................  15  ....  1.12  OTTT 

31bs.  Flour  .....................      5.76  .64  34.32  9 

^lb.  Suet  ..........................  1.96  ....  1 

lib.  Mutton  ....................      2.72  .96  ....  8 

^Ib.Butter  ........................  9.99  ....  18% 

2  Eggs  ............................  84  .32  ....  4^ 

Tea  ..................................  ....  ....  2 

lib.  Sugar  ..........................  ....  15.84  7 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk  ................      1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

^lb.  Coffee.  ........................  3§ 

Total  ..........................    20.83  17.62  91.50  1381 

Required  .....................    19.19  12.42  78,03  138 


of  Fare,  Class  111.  169 


SUNDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Sour  Milk  Pancakes  with  Green  Corn  Soup  (p.  120). 

Sugar  Syrup  (p.  103).  Fricaseed  Chicken  (p.  57). 

Sausage.     Bread.  Potatoes  and  Carrots  (p.  116). 

Cucumbers.  with  Fried  Onions. 

Coffee.  Bread. 

Supper. 

Fried  Farina  Pudding  (p.  108. 
Water  Toast. 
Radishes. 
Tea. 

•p™+oirio        -KVifo          Carbo-  Cost 

Proteids.       Fats.       hydrate8.  in 

oz.  oz.  oz.         Cents. 

Radishes  ....              ....  3 

lib.  Sausage 2.33             6.00             ....  12 

%  Ib.  Sug-ar ....              9.90  5J£ 

1^  qts.  Whole  Milk 1.74             1.85             2.48  10^ 

31bs.  Bread 2.88               .24            24.90  6TV 

^  doz.  Green  Corn 7^6 

An  Old  Chicken  ( 3  Ibs.) 9.00             1.90             ....  50 

2  Ibs.  Potatoes 60             ....              6.60  2J^ 

^lb.  Carrots ....               .72  1 

Cucumbers 2 

l^lb.  Flour 2.88                .36            17.16  4*4 

34  Ib.  Farina 84             ....              6.00  2^ 

^Ib.Butter 3.33             ....  6J4 

Iqt.  Sour  Milk 1.06               .24             1.65  4 

Coffee ....             ....  3f 

Tea ....  2 

2Eggs 34                .32              ....  4^ 

Total 21.66            14.24            69.41  127| 

Required 19.19            12.42            78.03  138 

15 


170  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


MONDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Codfish  Balls.  Roast  Beef. 

Bread  and  Butter.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Coffee.  Stewed  Tomatoes. 

Stewed  Apples.  Lemonade. 

Bread. 
Supper. 

Berry  Roly  Poly  (p.  108). 

Cheese. 

Bread  and  Butter. 
Tea. 

Proteids.  Fats.  h$rbo-g      Cost 

oz.  oz.  oz.          Cents. 

%lb.  Codfish 3.60  ....  ....              6 

4  Ibs.  Potatoes 1.28  13.24             5 

31bs.  Bread 2.88  .24  24.90             6TV 

%lb.  Butter 9.99  ....            18% 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk 2.32  2.46  3.30            14 

lib.  Sugar ....  15.84             7 

2^1bs.  Beef 8.40  2.20  ....            40 

31bs.  Tomatoes ....  4.00             5 

Lemons 7 

1^  Ib.  Flour 3.88  .36  17.16              4^ 

%  Ib.  Fat  Cheese 2.00  2.32  .18             7^ 

J^lb.  Coffee ....  3f 

Tea ....  ....              2 

Fruit ....  ....            10 

Total 24.36  17.57  78^62          137~~ 

Required 19.19  12.42  78.03          138 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III.  1?1 


TUESDAY,  SEPTEMBER. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Broiled  Mackerel.  Sour  Cream  Soup  (p.  124). 

Stewed  Potatoes.  Roast  Mutton 

Bread  and  Butter.  with  Bread  Stuffing. 

Coffee.  Boiled  Beets. 

Bread  Pudding  (p.  Ill,  No.  2). 

Supper. 

Apple  Fritters  (p.  114), 

with  Sugar  Syrup. 

Bread  and  Butter. 

Tea. 

•Pr-^toiria        Tpo+o          Carbo-       Cost 
Proteids.       Fats.      hydrate8>       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.         Cents. 

l^lbs.Flour  ...................      2.88  .36  17.16             4^ 

4Eggs  ............................  68  .64  ....              8% 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk  ..............      2.32  2.46  3.30            14 

llb.Sugrar  ..........................  ....  15.84             7 

J^lb.Suet  ...........................  1.96  ....              1 

2J^lbs.  Mutton  ................      6.80  2.40  ....             40 

21bs.  Beets  ..........................  ....  3.00             5 

126  Ibs.  Salt  Mackerel  ..........      4.56  3.00  .... 

IH  Ibs.  Potatoes  .................  48  ....  4.96 

41bs.  Bread  .....................      3.84  .32  33.20 

J^lb.  Butter  ........................  6.66  .... 

Sour  Cream  and  Apples  ...........  ____  ____ 


Tea  ..................................  ____  ____  2 


Total  ..........................    2156  17.80  79.46 

Required  .....................    19.19  12.42  78.03          138 


172  Mis  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


SATURDAY,  JANUARY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Buckwheat  Cakes  and  Roast  Fresh  Pork,  with 

Sugar  Syrup.  Apple  Sauce. 

Bread  and  Butter.  Mashed  Potatoes. 

Coffee.  Indian  Pudding  (  p.  110 ). 

Bread. 

Supper. 

Herring  and  Potato  Salad. 

Lentils,  with  Prunes  (p.  116). 

Bread  and  Butter. 

Tea. 
t 

Prnt^iHa  "Pats  CarbO-          Cost 

Proteids.  Fats.  hydrateg>       in 

oz.  oz.  oz.          Cents. 

2  Ibs.  Sucfcwbeat  Flour 3.04  .64  23.20           10 

V&  Ibs.  Corn  Meai 2.28  .91  16.80             4^ 

lib.  Butter 13.33  ....            25 

Mlb.Sugar ....  11.88             5& 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk 1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

Apples —  4 

2^  Ibs.  Fresh  Pork 8.00  2.80  ....  37^ 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes 96  ....  9.91  3| 

2  Eggs 34  .32  ....  4* 

1  qt.  Skim  Milk 1.16  .24  1.65  4 

3  Ibs.  Bread 2.88  .24  24.90  6T3 

^Ib.Lentils 2.04  .16  4.32  5 

^lb.  Prunes 15  ....  3.80  5 

J^lb.  Coffee ....  ....  3§ 

Tea ....  ....  2 

6Herrings , 1.68  .68  ....  5 

Salad  Dressing —  —  5 

Total 23.69  20.55  98.14 

Required 19.19  12.42  78.03          138 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III.  173 


SUNDAY,  JANUARY. 

Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Milk  Toast.  Cold  Roast  Pork, 

Fried  Potatoes.  Noodles  (p.  90). 

Coffee.  Stewed  Cabbage. 

Bread. 

Swelled  Rice  Pudding  (p.  107). 
Corn  Coffee  (p.  135). 

Supper. 

Potato  Soup  (p.  118).    Grated  Cheese. 

Bread  and  butter. 

Raised  Cake  (p.  98).     Canned  Fruit. 
Tea. 

Proteids  Fats  ^bo-^      Cost 

oz-  oz.  Cents 

^  Ib.  Fat  Cheese 1.08  .95  .06  3% 

4  Ibs.  Potatoes 1.28  ....  13.24  5 

21bs.  Flour 3.84  48  22.88  6 

4  Eggs 68  .64  ....  8i£ 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk 2.32  2.46  3.30  14 

1  qt.  Skim  Milk 1.06  .24  1.65  4 

%  Ib.  Butter 9.99  ....  18% 

lib.  Sugar ....  15.42  7 

2  Ibs.  Fresh  Pork 6.40  2.24  ....  30 

21bs.  Cabbage .80  ....  1.60  8 

J^lb.  Rice 64  .08  6.12  4 

3  Ibs.  Bread 2.88  .24  24.90  6Ttf 

Corn  (dry  grain) 2 

Canned  Fruit 10 

^lb.  Coffee ....  ....  sf 

Tea ....  2 

Total. 20.98  17.32  89.17 

Required 19.19  12.43  78.03  138 


174  Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


MONDAY,  JANUARY. 
Breakfast.  Dinner. 

Buckwheat  Cakes.  Pea  Soup  (p.  118). 

Sausage.  Roast  Beef. 

Coffee.  Baked  Potatoes. 

Apple  Sauce.  Canned  Tomatoes. 

Barley  Gruel  (p.  121). 

Supper. 

Potato  Soup  with  Egg  and  Bread  Balls  (p.  128). 

Brown  Bread  and  Butter. 

Canned  Fruit.     Tea. 


Profpiri« 


Carbo-  Cost 
hydrates.         in 

-  -               oz.  Cents 

2  Ibs.  Buckwheat  Flour  .......      3.04  .64  33.20  10 

lib.  Sausage  ..................      2.32  6.00  ....  12 

21bs.  Beef  .....  .  ...............      6.12  1.76  ....  32 

3  Ibs.  Potatoes  .................  96  ....  9.94  3% 

2  Ibs.  Tomatoes  (canned  at 

home)  ....................  19  ....  3.50  6 

3  Ibs.  Bread  ...................      2.88  .24  24.90 

2Eggs.  .........................  34  .32  ....  4 

^lb.  Barley  ...................  88  .12  5.72  4 

1  qt.  Whole  Milk  ........  .  .....      1.16  1.23  1.65  7 

J^lb.  Sugar  .......................  ....  7.92  3^ 

1  Ib.  Dried  Peas  ...............      3.68  .32  8.32  5 

*^lb.  Butter  ......................  6.66  ....  12^ 

Canned  Fruit  .....  .  ................  ....  10 

^lb.  Coffee  ........................  ....  ....  3f 

Tea  ................................  ....  ....  2 

Apples  .............................  ____  ____  5 

Total  .........................    22JL7  1L29  85.15  1271. 

Required  ....................    19.19  12.42  78.03  138 


Bills  of  Fare,  Class  III. 


175 


TUESDAY,  JANUARY. 


Breakfast. 

Graham  Biscuits. 
Fried  Bacon.     Apple  Sauce. 
Coffee. 


Dinner. 

Boiled  Mutton. 

Baked  Potatoes. 

"Winter  Squash. 

Dried  Apple  Short  Cake 

with  Pudding  Sauce. 

Corn  Coffee. 


Supper. 

Mutton  and  Bean  Broth. 

Bread  and  Butter. 

Cheese.     Tea. 

Cookies. 


Proteids 
oz. 


Fats 
oz. 


Carbo-         Costs 
hydrates         in 
oz.  Cent 


%  Ib.  Bacon 36  9.66  ....  9 

^  Ib.  dried  Apples 10  ....  4.44  6 

lib.  Beans 3.68  .32  8.56  5 

\i  Ib.  Fat  Cheese 1.00  1.16  ....  3^ 

lib.  Sugar ....  15.84  7 

2  qts.  Whole  Milk... 2.32  2.46  3.30  14 

2^6  Ibs.  Mutton 6.80  2.40  ....  30 

3  Ib.  Potatoes 96  ....  9.94  3% 

2  Ibs.  Winter  Squash 16  ....  3.20  10 

Cookies - ....  ....  15 

21bs.  Bread .; 1.92  .16  16.60  4f 

2^  Ibs.  Flour 4.80  .60  27.94  8^ 

Y±  Ib.  Butter.. 3.33  ....  6J4 

^Ib.Coffee ....  ...,  3§ 

Tea ....  ....  2 

Apples 5 

Total 22.10  20.09  89.82  132  ? 

Required. 19.19  12.43  78.03  138 


TWELVE   COLD  DIKNEBS. 


If  a  man  is  to  eat  a  cold  dinner  for  months  or  even 
for  weeks,  it  is  quite  worth  while  to  make  that  din- 
ner as  good  as  it  can  be,  and  to  pack  it  nicely  for  carry- 
ing Every  one  knows  how  it  can  take  the  edge  off 
even  a  keen  appetite  to  find  his  sandwich  smeared 
with  apple  pie,  or  his  cake  soaked  with  vinegar  from 
the  pickles.  That  a  box  or  basket  of  given  dimen- 
sions should  hold  as  much  as  possible,  and  keep  the 
different  kinds  of  food  separate,  it  must  be  divided 
into  compartments. 

Simplest  —  an  oblong  basket, — divide  into  two 
compartments  by  a  piece  of  pasteboard  cut  so  that 
it  slips  in  rather  tightly,  then  line  the  two  compart- 
ments with  nice  wrapping  paper  put  in  fresh  every 
day.  It  may  be  divided  into  four  parts  in  the  same 
way.  A  close  fitting  tin  spice  box  is  nice  for  holding 
cheese.  A  tiny  " salve"  box  should  contain  salt  and 
pepper  mixed.  Sew  leather  straps  on  the  cover  of  the 
basket  inside,  for  holding  knife,  fork  and  spoon. 

Put  a  strap  around  the  basket  that  you  may  hang 
from  it  a  little  pail  containing  cold  soups  recom- 
mended for  drinks  in  summer. 

Cold  puddings  should  be  wrapped  in  strong  writ- 
ing paper,  then  in  wrapping  paper  and  pinned  close. 

17(5 


Twelve  Cold  Dinners. 


177 


COLD    DINNERS   FOR   SUMMER. 


1.  Bread  and  butter. 
Salad  of  potatoes  and  cold 

baked  fish. 

Cold  boiled  beef. 

Molasses  Cookies. 

Apple  Soup. 

2.  Corn  Bread. 

Ham  Sandwiches. 

Baked  sweet  apples. 

Custard  pie. 

Plum  Soup 

3.  Bread  and  butter. 

Cold  veal. 

Hard  boiled  eggs. 

Pickled  beets. 

Cherry  Pie. 


4.  Chopped  beef  sandwiches. 

Salad  of  Lima  Beans. 

Ginger  Snaps. 

Cottage  Cheese. 

Irish  Moss  Lemonade. 


5.  Graham  bread. 

Cold  roast  mutton. 

Cucumbers  and  salt. 

Pumpkin  pie. 

Soda  cream. 

6.  Bread  and  butter. 

Dried  Beef.     Crackers. 

Cheese.     Sponge  cake. 

Cold  coffee. 


COLD    DINNERS   FOR   WINTER, 


7.  Bread. 

Cold  boiled  pork. 

Cold  baked  beans  with 

mustard  and  vinegar. 

Doughnuts. 

Apple  pie. 

Cold  coffee. 

8.  Yeast  biscuits  and  butter. 
Cold  chicken. 

Pickles. 

Cold  rice  pudding. 
Apples. 

9.  Cold  soda  biscuits. 

Veal  and  ham  sandwiches. 

Saratoga  potatoes. 

Mince  pie. 


10.  Biscuits  and  butter  with 

honey. 
Cold  corn  beef  and  rye 

bread. 

Dried  apple  tarts. 
Cheese. 

11.  Bread  and  butter. 

Smoked  Herring. 

Pickled  beans. 

Gingerbread. 

Apples. 

12.  Corn  bread  and  butter. 
Cold  roast  beef  and  white 

bread. 

Bread  and  apple  pudding. 
Bread  cake. 


INDEX. 


PAGE. 

Apple  dumplings 109 

pie 109 

water 136 

Apples,  food  value  of 84 

Bacon,  balls  in  soup 128 

broiled 54 

fried 54 

with  cabbage 54 

Barley,  analysis  of 80 

to  cook 86 

porridge 133 

with  prunes 86 

insoup 137 

Beanflour  83 

soup 117 

Beans,  cellulose  in 83 

to  cook 115 

digestibility  of 77,  83 

proteidin 81 

with  prunes 116 

Beef,  analysis  of,  compared,  26, 27 

baked. 41 

boiled 40 

broiled 43 

corned 47 

croquettes 49 

fried  in  fat 40 

hash 48 

heart 48 

liver 47 

pie 46 


re-cooked 48 

stew 40 

tripe 48 

Biscuit,  graham 103 

soda 103 

soda  in  puddings 108 

.    97 


PAGE. 

Bills  of  Fare,  explanation  of  143 
Class  I,  introduction  to..  143 

Cla?sl 151 

Class  II 163 

Class  III 164 

Bonny  Clabber 64 

Bread,  corn 97 

dressing 106 

additional  facts  about ...    96 

in  foreign  countries 16 

fritters 114 

graham 96 

making 94 

making,     principles     in- 
volved in 91 

omelet 60 

pancakes 93 

pudding 110 

re-baked 106 

rye 97 

steamed 99 

stale,  steamed 106 

soup 131 

uses  for 105 

Buckwheat,  analysis  of 80 

pancakes 100 

Buns,  plain 98 

fruit 98 

Butter,  artificial 70 

substitutes  for 68 

to  try  out 71 

Buttermilk  cheese  (see  Cot- 
tage cheese). 

to  keep  fresh 64 

pudding 108 

soup 123 

uses  for 64 

Cake,  raised 98 

Johnny 103 


179 


180 


Index. 


PAGE. 

Cake,  short 103 

short,  strawberry 108 

Carbohydrates 6 

amount  in  diet 76 

containing  foods 75 

digestibility  of 77 

function  of .1.      9 

Cellulose 75 

inbeans 76 

its  uses 83 

Charcoal,  use  of 31,43 

Chocolate 134 

soup 133 

Cheese,  cottage 64 

cooked  with  bread 61 

digestibility  of 30 

fondamin 63 

food  value  of 39 

grated 61 

proteidin 5 

use  abroad 30 

Chicken,  fricaseed 57 

soup 57 

Cider,  bottled 136 

soup 134 

Coffee 133 

corn 135 

Corn  (Indian) ,  analysis  of ....    80 

bread 97,103 

flour 87 

gruel 135 

mush 87 

pancakes 87, 104 

pone 88 

porridge 133 

pudding 107 

Croquettes,  meat 49 

Dietary,  army 66 

Bavarian 67 

standard 3,10-13 

ofpoorfamily 13 

Dinners,  Twelve  Cold 175 

Doughnuts 99 

Drinks  at  meals 133 

Economy,  its  true  scope 13 

Egg  dishes 69 


PAGE. 

Eggs,  food  value  of 39,  58 

hard  boiled 50 

omelets 60 

proteidin 5 

raw 50 

soft  boiled 50 

Egg  sponge  for  soup 138 

Farina,  pudding 108 

soup 131 

Fats  in  army  dietary 66 

different,  compared 69 

digestibility  of 68 

function  of 9 

importance  of 67 

uses  of  in  cooking 71 

Fish  balls 57 

fresh 55 

food  value  of. 38 

chowder 55 

salt 56 

soup 56 

Flavorings. 9,130 

Flour,  fine  wheat 89 

raised  with  egg 93 

raised  with  soda 100 

raised  with  yeast 93 

qualityof 94 

Fondamin 63 

Food  Principles,  definition  of  4 

functions  of 7 

proportion  of  in  diet 10 

Fritters 113 

bread 114 

egg-raised 113 

soda-raised 113 

fruit 114 

Fruits,  digestibility  of 84 

dried 84 

fritters ...  114 

food  value  of 83 

soups 134 

puddings 108 

G elatine,  history  of 32 

Graham  biscuits 103 

bread 96 

gems 88 


Index. 


181 


PAGE. 

Graham,  pancakes 104 

Grains,  analysis  of 80 

cookingof 85 

Grapes,  sugar  in 84 

Gruels 135 

Ham,  cakes 54 

croquettes 54 

boiled 53 

broiled 54 

fried 54 

sandwiches 53 

Hash,  meat 48 

Heatsaver 44 

Hominy,  fried 87 

Mushes,  fried 87 

to  make 86 

other  uses  for 87 

Introduction 1 

Kitchen,  arrangement  of 18 

utensils 19 

Lard 72 

Lentils,  to  cook 115 

food  value  of 81 

soup 118 

Lemonade,  Irish  moss 136 

Macaroni,  to  cook 89 

insoup 129 

with  tomatoes 90 

Marrow '..    71 

Meat  balls  in  soup 129 

consumption  of 11 

methods  of  cooking 32 

structure  of 32 

tough,  to  make  tender. . .    45 

Milk,  analysis  of 63 

canning 63 

sour,  uses  for 64 

Mintsauce •_.    74 

Muffins 93 

Mutton,  modes  of  cooking . .    51 

Noodles 90 

Noodle  soup 91 

Oats,  food  value  of 79 

analysis  of 80 

Oatmeal  gruel 135 

pancakes 86 


PAGE. 

Oatmeal,  mush 86 

Omelets  (see  Eggs). 

Oils,  for  frying 41 

Pancakes,  soda 87, 103 

egg-raised 93 

yeast-raised 99, 100, 104 

Parsnip  soup 119 

Pears,  food  yalue  of 84 

Peas  Split,  to  cook 115 

foodvalueof 118 

Pea  soup 118 

Plumsoup 124 

Piecrust 92 

apple 109 

Pork  and  apples 55 

and  beans ..    55 

ways  of  cooking 55 

foodvalueof 27 

Potato,  cooking  of  the 115 

crust 46 

foodvalueof 82 

omelet 114 

soup 118 

Porridges 122 

Proteids 5 

function  of 7 

containing  foods 22 

vegetable 78 

Pudding,  Berry  Betty 110 

bread 110 

bread  and  butter Ill 

Brown  Betty 110 

buttermilk 108 

custard 110 

farina 108 

Indian 107,  110 

individual Ill 

minute 107 

rice 110 

sago 110 

sauce 112 

suet 112 

tapioca 110 

Rice,  analysis  of 80 

foodvalueof 79 

to  cook  ..  .    85 


182 


Index. 


PAGE. 

Rice,  gruel 135 

omelet 60 

pancakes 93 

pudding 107,  110 

Rolls 97 

Rusks 98 

Rye  flour,  analysis  of 80 

bread 97 

Salts .'. 6 

Sauces,  drawn  butter 73 

meat 74 

Schwaben  Spetzel 128 

Si  ck,  cookery  for  the 136 

Starch,  in  dietary 78 

digestibility  of 77 

Soda  Cream 136 

Sorrel  soup 120 

Soup,  additions  to 126 

analysis  of 24 

fish 121 

fruit 124 

meat,  to  make 33 

milk 39,122 

use  of  in  Europe ...    16 

vegetable 117 


PAGE. 

Sugar,  consumption  of 15 

food  value  of 80 

Suet  pudding.. 112 

totryout 40 

uses  of 71,72 

Tea 134 

Thermometer,  use  of 43 

Tomato  omelet 61 

sauce 74 

soup 119 

Tripe,  to  cook 48 

Veal,  modes  of  cooking 50 

Vegetable  food,  digestibility 

of 77 

Vegetables,  cooking  of 115 

food  value  of 83 

with  fruits 116 

mixed 116 

soups - 117 

Water _.      5 

Wheat 79 

analysis  of 80 

flour,  cooking  of  -  - 89-104 

Welsh  rarebit...  63 


31 


THE    AMERICAN   PUBLIC    HEALTH 
ASSOCIATION, 

Organized  in  1872  by  a  few  eminent  sanitarians,  has  grown 
in  fourteen  years  to  be  the  strongest  and  ablest  association  of 
its  kind  in  America,  if  not  in  the  world,  and  contains  in  its  list 
of  members,  physicians,  lawyers,  clergymen,  teachers,  en- 
gineers, architects,  and  representatives  of  other  trades  and 
professions.  Its  influence  has  been  felt  in  the  legislative  halls 
of  the  nation,  as  well  as  in  every  state  and  territory,  for  the 
amelioration  of  sickness  and  suffering,  and  the  prolongation  of 
luiman  life. 

The  fourteen  large  and  elegant  volumes  it  has  published  are 
in  themselves  a  monument  to  American  hygiene,  while  their 
precepts  and  teachings  have  been  felt  through  all  ranks  and 
grades  of  society,  from  the  workshop  to  the  mansion  of  the 
millionaire.  No  library  is  complete  in  its  literature  of  sanita- 
tion without  these  works. 

Each  member  of  the  Association  receives  a  copy  of  the 
annual  volume  free  of  expense.  This  work  alone  is  worth 
more  to  any  individual  than  the  cost  of  membership. 

EXTRACT  FROM  CONSTITUTION,     ART.  III. 

The  members  of  this  Association  shall  be  known  as  Active 
and  Associate.  The  Executive  Committee  shall  determine  for 
which  class  a  candidate  shall  be  proposed.  The  Active  mem- 
bers shall  constitute  the  permanent  body  of  the  Association, 
subject  to  the  provisions  of  the  Constitution  as  to  continuance 
in  membership.  They  shall  be  selected  with  special  reference 
to  their  acknowledged  interest  in  or  devotion  to  sanitary  studies 
and  allied  sciences,  and  to  the  practical  application  of  the 
same.  The  Associate  members  shall  be  elected  with  special 
reference  to  their  general  interest  only  in  sanitary  science,  and 
shall  have  all  the  privileges  and  publications  of  the  Associa- 
183 


184       American  Public  Health  Association. 

tion,  but  shall  not  be  entitled  to  vote.  All  members  shall  be 
elected  as  follows: 

Each  candidate  for  admission  shall  first  be  proposed  to  the 
Executive  Committee  in  writing  (which  may  be  done  at  any 
time),  with  a  statement  of  the  business  or  profession,  and 
special  qualifications,  of  the  persons  so  proposed.  On  recom- 
mendation of  a  majority  of  the  committee,  and  on  receiving  a 
vote  of  two  thirds  of  the  members  present  at  a  regular  meeting, 
the  candidate  shall  be  declared  duly  elected  a  member  of  the 
Association.  The  annual  fee  of  membership  in  either  class, 
shall  be  five  dollars. 

PUBLICATIONS   OF   THE    AMERICAN 
PUBLIC    HEALTH   ASSOCIATION. 

PUBLIC  HEALTH :  REPORTS  AND  PAPERS  OF  THE 
AMERICAN  PUBLIC  HEALTH  ASSOCIATION.  Volumes  1  to  14 
inclusive  and  one  volume  to  be  issued  annually.  These  vol- 
umes contain  the  papers  presented  at  the  annual  meetings  of 
the  Association,  with  the  discussions  upon  each,  and  constitute 
large  and  very  handsome  works.  Each  member  of  the  Asso- 
ciation is  entitled  to  the  annual  volume.  A  small  edition  is 
also  placed  in  the  hands  of  the  treasurer  for  sale.  rAt  the 
present  time  there  are  but  few  complete  sets  on  hand,  and 
these  are  being  rapidly  taken  by  libraries. 

DISINFECTION  AND  DISINFECTANTS:  THEIR  AP- 
PLICATION AND  USE  IN  THE  PREVENTION  AND  TREATMENT 

OF  DISEASE,  AND  IN  PUBLIC  AND  PRIVATE  SANITATION,  by 
the  Committee  on  Disinfectants,  appointed  by  the  American 
Public  Health  Association. 

The  following  is  the  list  of  authors  of  this  work:  GEORGE  M. 
STERNBERG,  M.  D.,  Surgeon  U.  S.  Army,  and  Fellow  by 
Courtesy  in  the  Johns  Hopkins  University;  JOSEPH  H.  RAY- 
MOND, M.  D.,  Professor  of  Physiology  dhd  Sanitary  Science  in 
Long  Island  College  Hospital;  ViCTOtt  C.  VAUGHAN,  M.  D. , 
Ph.  D.,  Professor  of  Physiological  Chemistry  in  the  Univer- 
sity of  Michigan,  and  Member  of  the  Michigan  State  Board  of 


Lomb  Prize  Essays.  185 

Health;  CHARLES  SMART,  M.  D.,  Surgeon  U.  S.  Army,  and 
member  of  the  National  Board  of  Health;  GEORGE  H.  ROHE, 
M.  D.,  Professor  of  Hygiene  in  the  College  of  Physicians  and 
Surgeons,  Baltimore;  JOSEPH  HOLT,  M.  D.,  President  of  the 
Louisiana  State  Board  of  Health;  SAMUEL  H.  DURGIN,  M.  D., 
health  officer  of  Boston;  and  J.  R.  DUGGAN,  M.  D. 

The  original  experimental  investigations  made  by  these 
specialists  are  of  great  importance  and  value,  and  render  this 
work  the  most  complete  and  practical  volume  upon  disinfec 
tion  and  disinfectants  yet  published.  A  large  amount  of 
original  work  is  devoted  to  the  various  micro-organisms,  and 
in  determining  the  value  of  many  of  the  so-called  disinfectants 
and  germicides.  The  biological  work  was  conducted  mostly 
at  the  Johns  Hopkins  University  under  the  Supervision  of  Dr. 
Sternberg,  and  at  the  University  of  Michigan  under  Dr. 
Vaughan.  Various  apparatus  used  for  disinfecting  purposes, 
as  well  as  the  admirable  quarantine  system  at  New  Orleans, 
are  fully  described  and  illustrated.  The  chapter  on  PTO- 
MAINES, by  Dr.  Vaughan,  is  of  great  value. 

The  labors  and  investigations  of  these  gentlemen  extended 
over  a  period  of  three  years,  and  involved  no  inconsiderable 
expecse. 

The  work  consists  of  two  hundred  and  sixty-five  pages,  with 
sixty -eight  illustrations,  printed  upon  very  heavy  paper  made 
especially  for  this  volume,  and  is  elegantly  bound  in  handsome 
English  cloth.  The  price  has  been  placed  at  the  low  figure  of 
two  dollars  per  volume.  Sent  postpaid  on  receipt  of  price. 

LOMB  PRIZE  ESSAYS. 

These  exceedingly,  valuable  essays,  written  by  authors  of 
great  ability,  and  selected  as  the  best  out  of  many  received  in 
competition,  by  committees  of  award  who  were  selected  by 
the  American  Public  Health  Association,  the  Conference  of 
State  Boards  of  Health,  and  the  National  Board  of  Health,  and 
whose  names  alone  gv  arantee  the  high  character  of  the  works, 
are  being  placed  before  the  public  AT  COST,  through  means 


186  Lonib  Prize  Essays. 

that  are  being  furnished  the  American  Public  Health  Asso- 
ciation. 

No.  i.  Healthy  Homes  and  Foods  for  the  Working-Classes. 
By  Prof.  VICTOR  C.  VAUGHAN,  M.  D.,  Ann  Arbor,  Mich. 

JUDGES:— Dr.  E.  M.  Moore,  Pres.  State  Bd.  of  Health,  Roch- 
ester, N.  Y. ;  Dr.  C.  W.  Chancellor,  Sec'y  State  Bd.  of  Health, 
Baltimore,  Md. ;  Medical  Director  Albert  L.  Gihon,  U.S.  Navy, 
Washington,  D.  C. ;  Dr.  J.  H.  Raymond,  Health  Commissioner, 
Brooklyn,  N.  Y.;  Major  Charles  Smart,  Surgeon  U.  S.  A., 
Washington,  D.  C. 

SYNOPSIS   OF   CONTENTS. 

Location;  the  cellar;  the  walls;  the  floors;  arrangement  of 
rooms;  the  windows;  heating  and  ventilation;  water-supply; 
the  disposal  of  waste:  the  surroundings;  the  care  of  the  home; 
buying  or  renting  a  house;  tenement-houses;  foods  and  food 
stuffs;  the  nutritive  value  of  foods;  the  economic  value  of 
foods.  Animal  foods; — general  properties;  methods  of  cook- 
ing meat;  milk;  butter;  cheese.  Vegetabk  foods;— cereals  and 
grains;  flour  and  meal;  bread;  pease  and  beans;  potatoes; 
other  vegetables;  starches;  sugars;  fruits;  nuts;  vegetable  oils; 
condiments;  tea;  coffee;  chocolate. 
8vo  paper,  62  pp.  Price  10  cts. 

Same  in  English-German  (alternate  pages  in  German)  .15. 

No.  2.  The  Sanitary  Conditions  and  Necessities  of  School- 
Houses  and  Scoool-Life.  By  D.  F.  LINCOLN,  M.  D., 
Boston,  Mass. 

JUDGES: — Hon.  Erastus  Brook*,  LL.  D.,  State  Bd.  of  Health, 
New  York;  Dr.  H.  P.  Walcott,  State  Bd.  of  Health,  Lunacy, 
and  Charity,  Cambridge,  Mass.;  Dr.  Granville  P.  Conn,  Pres. 
State  Bd.  of  Health,  Concord,  N.  H. ;  John  Eaton,  Commis- 
sioner of  Education,  Washington,  D.  C.;  Col.  George  E.  War- 
ing, Jr.,  C.  E.,  Newport,  R.  I. 

Site:  dampness,  the  cellar,  contamination  of  soil  and  air, 


Lo?nb  Prize  .Essays.  187 

drainage,  foundation  walls,  neighborhood,  etc.  Plan  and  ar- 
rangement of  the  building;  architecture,  doors,  windows, 
recitation  and  class  rooms,  stairways,  fire  escapes,  etc.  Ven- 
tilation and  heating;  amount  of  fresh  air  and  cubic  space  re- 
quired, introduction  of  fresh  air,  carbonic  acid  gas  exhaled, 
dimensions  of  ventilating  apparatus,  size  of  flues,  circulation 
of  air  in  room,  ventilating  by  steam  power,  "indirect"  heat- 
ing, testing  atmosphere  of  school-room,  source  of  air  supply, 
water  closets,  ventilating-stoves,  open  windows,  ventilators, 
etc.  Sewerage:  bad  air  dangerous  to  health,  waste-pipes, 
traps,  ventilation  of  traps,  closets,  flush  tanks,  urinals,  privies, 
disinfectants.  Hygiene  of  the  eye :  nearsightedness,  rules  for 
using  the  eyes,  location  of  windows,  type  used  in  school- 
books,  curtains,  and  blinds.  School  desks  and  gymnastics: 
construction  of  seats,  physical  training.  Affections  of  the 
nervous  system:  competition  for  prizes,  lack  of  exercise,  dress. 
Contagious  diseases  in  schools.  Sanitary  supervision.  This 
work  contains  fifteen  illustrations. 
8vo  paper,  38  pages.  Price,  5  cts. 

No.  3.  Disinfection  and  Individual  Prophylaxis  against 
Infectious  Diseases.  By  GEORGE  M.  STERNBERG,  M.D., 
Major  and  Surgeon  U.  S.  A. 

JUDGES:— Dr.  S.  H.  Durgin,  Health  Officer,  Boston,  Mass.; 
Dr.  J.  E.  Reeves,  Sec'y  State  Bd.  of  Health,  Wheeling,  W.Va. ; 
Dr.  Gustavas  Devron,  Pres.  Aux.  San.  Assn.,  New  Orleans, 
La.;  Prof.  Richard  McSherry,  M.  D.,  Baltimore,  Md.;  Prof. 
James  L.  Cabell,  LL.  D.,  University  of  Virginia,  Va. 

Disinfection;  groups  of  disinfectants. 

GROUP  I. — 1.  Fire;  2.  Steam  under  pressure;  3.  Boiling 
water;  4.  Chloride  of  lime;  5.  Liquor,  soda  chlorinatae;  6. 
Mercuric  chloride. 

GROUP  II.— 7.  Dry  heat;  8  Sulphur  dioxide;  9.  Carbolic 
acid;  10.  Sulphate  of  copper;  11.  Chloride  of  zinc;  general 
directions  for  disinfection;  disinfection  of  excreta,  etc.;  dis 
infection  of  person  ;  disinfection  of  clothing  and  bedding; 


1 88  Lonib  Prize  Essays. 

disinfection  of  the  sick  room;  disinfection  of  privy  vaults, 
cess  pools,  etc.;  hospitals;  disinfection  of  water  and  articles  of 
food;  disinfection  of  ships;  merchandise.  Individual  prophy- 
laxis against  infectious  diseases;  cholera;  yellow  fever;  small- 
pox; scarlet  fever;  diphtheria;  tuberculosis;  typhoid  fever; 
concluding  remarks,  etc. 

This  essay  is  undoubtedly  the  best  ever  written  in  the 
English  language  upon  the  prevention  of  disease,  and  ought 
to  be  placed  in  the  hands  of  every  family. 

8vo  paper,  40  pp.     Price,  5  cts. 

Same  in  English  German  (alternate  pages  in  German)  .10. 

No.  4.  The  Preventable  Causes,  of  Disease,  Injury,  and 
Death  in  American  Manufactories  and  Workshops, 
and  the  Best  Means  and  Appliances  for  Preventing 
and  avoiding  Them.  By  GEORGE  H.  IRELAND,  Spring- 
field, Mass. 

JUDGES:— Dr.  E.  M.  Hunt,  Sec'y  State  Bd.  of  Health,  Tren- 
ton, N.  J.;  Dr.  A.  N.  Bell,  Editor  Sanitarian,  New  York  City; 
Major  George  M.  Sternberg,  Surgeon,  U.  S.  A.,  Baltimore, 
Md.;  Major  John  S.  Billings,  LL.  D.,  U.  S.  A.,  Washington, 
D.  C. ;  Mr.  W.  P.  Dunwoody,  Secretary  National  Board  of 
Health,  Washington,  D.  C. 

Construction  of  workshops;  elevators;  fire-escapes;  sanitary 
condition;. plumbing;  ventilation;  sunlight;  heating;  lighting; 
precaution  against  fires;  dust  in  factories;  ice  supply;  handling 
heavy  goods;  machinery;  saws  and  moulding  machines;  grind- 
stones; railroading;  emergencies;  contagious  diseases;  cleanli- 
ness; facilities  for  workmen,  etc. 

8vo  paper,  20  pages.     Price,  5  cts. 

The  four  essays,  in  one  volume  of  nearly  two  hundred  large 
octavo  pages,  thorougJdy  indexed,  bound  in  cloth,  50  cts. 

The  same  printed  upon  extra  heavy  paper  made  especially 
for  this  edition,  and  bound  in  expensive  brown  cloth  with  gold 
and  black  finish,  making  an  elegant  and  handsome  volume, 
$0.75. 


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